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  #1  
Old 11-14-2005, 11:27 AM
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Are those huge, leaky trunk vents necessary?

Behind the trunk carpet on both outboard "wells" on my SD are really big vents, "covered" by a rubber flap. I expect that they are there to vent air through the cabin, exiting at a low pressure region behind the car, like on my old Saabs. But why do they have to be so big and leaky?? I'm really tempted to seal them up. Especially because they are behind the rear tires where a lot of crud gets splashed up in the winter. Anyone here ever seal these up?

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  #2  
Old 11-14-2005, 01:01 PM
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The reason I'm thinking of sealing these is because I think that road splash is getting in through there. After just replacing the rear window seal, I'm bound and determined to get the as much of the remaining moisture out of the car and keep it that way. Ideas?
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  #3  
Old 11-14-2005, 01:27 PM
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Are these the ones with the three small holes in a "plug" of rubber?...I think it would be OK to seal them...If it were me I'd do it in a temporary or reversible fashion in case you discover theat your trunk lid leaks or for some other reason you wan to use them as a drain....
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  #4  
Old 11-14-2005, 01:33 PM
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Rob, The vents I am thinking about are about 2" high and about a foot long. They are about even with the front of the rear bumper. They are higher than the rubber plugs with the 3 holes, which I plan to leave alone.
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  #5  
Old 11-14-2005, 10:35 PM
t walgamuth's Avatar
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wow pete

i just can't imagine what you are talking about. could you give a little more info about where they are exactly? and what year sd?

tom w
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..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.
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  #6  
Old 11-15-2005, 01:05 AM
Brandon314159
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I've seen what he is talking about. Its a uncommonly seen unit on either side behind the bumper in the rear quarter panel area.

If I were you, I would replace the rubber or perhaps, if the rubber parts are good, look elsewhere for your problems.

I have offroaded my car in mud/grass and didn't have problems with these vents plugging up and staying open.

Give the trunk some time to dry out and then go from there...you won't like the way the doors close if you block these vents. Anyone who has every properly rebuilt a VW bug knows what I am talking about. A well sealed car is sometimes a bad thing

Thus MB let the air out
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  #7  
Old 11-15-2005, 01:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brandon314159
I've seen what he is talking about. Its a uncommonly seen unit on either side behind the bumper in the rear quarter panel area.

If I were you, I would replace the rubber or perhaps, if the rubber parts are good, look elsewhere for your problems.

I have offroaded my car in mud/grass and didn't have problems with these vents plugging up and staying open.

Give the trunk some time to dry out and then go from there...you won't like the way the doors close if you block these vents. Anyone who has every properly rebuilt a VW bug knows what I am talking about. A well sealed car is sometimes a bad thing

Thus MB let the air out

I had a professor in HS who said that when he was in his 20's he left his black superbeetle out in the sun in mexico with the windows up, and he came back to all the windows having blown out from the rapid temp/heat increase in pressure.
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  #8  
Old 11-15-2005, 01:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pawoSD
I had a professor in HS who said that when he was in his 20's he left his black superbeetle out in the sun in mexico with the windows up, and he came back to all the windows having blown out from the rapid temp/heat increase in pressure.
THere is a reason if you plug a couple holes, those things will float (they might even float stock???

I was thinking heater boxes would let in some water but I guess if its new...it wouldn't leak
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  #9  
Old 11-15-2005, 01:40 AM
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Wow, I never knew they were so air tight. I'd like to have a superbeetle, that'd be a blast!
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'15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
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  #10  
Old 11-15-2005, 01:41 AM
Brandon314159
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pawoSD
Wow, I never knew they were so air tight. I'd like to have a superbeetle, that'd be a blast!
Superbeetle = more complicated/not so well designed.

Standard beetle = awesome and rarely breaks anything suspension related
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  #11  
Old 11-15-2005, 01:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brandon314159
Superbeetle = more complicated/not so well designed.

Standard beetle = awesome and rarely breaks anything suspension related
Standard Beetle it is! I just liked the thought of the superbeetle because of the extra power, but in retrospect, I'd really not care. If I had a 240d I'd love it too. I almost bought a manual yellow 240d from montana way back when looking for a car. But eventually ended up with the SD from PA.
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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)
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  #12  
Old 11-15-2005, 01:55 AM
Brandon314159
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pawoSD
Standard Beetle it is! I just liked the thought of the superbeetle because of the extra power, but in retrospect, I'd really not care. If I had a 240d I'd love it too. I almost bought a manual yellow 240d from montana way back when looking for a car. But eventually ended up with the SD from PA.
Standard beetle can be upgraded to have as much (or more) power than a super. Its not like these cars are hard to remove the engines from

Back to the subject at hand...the germans seem to like their cars watertight?
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  #13  
Old 11-15-2005, 08:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brandon314159
I've seen what he is talking about. Its a uncommonly seen unit on either side behind the bumper in the rear quarter panel area.

If I were you, I would replace the rubber or perhaps, if the rubber parts are good, look elsewhere for your problems.

I have offroaded my car in mud/grass and didn't have problems with these vents plugging up and staying open.

Give the trunk some time to dry out and then go from there...you won't like the way the doors close if you block these vents. Anyone who has every properly rebuilt a VW bug knows what I am talking about. A well sealed car is sometimes a bad thing

Thus MB let the air out
Thanks Brandon, I totally forgot about the door closing issue. That exactly explains why they are so big and hinged the way they are. I think I'll see how much these cost to replace - the water staining under them indicates that they do pass water. Now that I've fixed the rear window seal I can see just how much water these let through. I want to get it right before I put the trunk carpet back.
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  #14  
Old 11-15-2005, 09:43 AM
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Thanks Pete for asking that question. I always wondered about that flap and toyed with the idea of sealing it up myself.
The rubber looks like it needs replacing though. maybe I'll try to replace it sometime.

What I found by doing a water test with a garden hose is the rear taillight was leaking and there is a seam right below it that was leaking too. Also shows a small sign of rusting.

I'l in the same boat. I want to get this all fixed before I put the the carpet back in.

Danny
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  #15  
Old 11-15-2005, 03:11 PM
Old Deis
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There are several places that trunk can leak. I was told the best way to hunt down the leaks is to get into the trunk with a flashlight and close the trunk and have someone take a water hose to it. Should be able to locate the leaks that way.
So far I haven't done that. Just can't locare anyone I can talk into the trunk, nor can I bring myself to trust anyone to let me out.

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