SD pulling to the left...help? - Page 3 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

WANT '71 280SEL · #31 11-17-2005, 10:31 PM

The brake booster isn't bad. There are 4 nuts on the inside of the firewall that you have to remove the kick panel to reach up and access them. I've heard they're not that bad. The fusebox doesn't need to be removed. I think you'd just want to unbolt it that way you could move it around slightly. I looked into removing my fusebox and it would be a NIGHTMARE with all of the wires. I think most of your time will be spent on busy work, pulling hoses, etc. You need to just take your time and you'll manage.

Thanks
David

dkveuro · #32 11-18-2005, 10:50 AM

Just an FYI....cut the mount 4 inches back from washer off a wrecked car....cut the end off the sway bar about 4 inches from the washer....weld and sleeve that to the origonal bar.

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pawoSD · #33 11-18-2005, 01:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dkveuro

Just an FYI....cut the mount 4 inches back from washer off a wrecked car....cut the end off the sway bar about 4 inches from the washer....weld and sleeve that to the origonal bar.

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You can't cut or weld the sway bar itself because its tempered steel....at least thats what I have heard on that topic. We'd probably prefer to just replace it, and it looks like I am going to be doing it, mostly myself. I can ascend into the upper ranks of garage mechanics

dkveuro · #34 11-18-2005, 01:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pawoSD

You can't cut or weld the sway bar itself because its tempered steel....at least thats what I have heard on that topic. We'd probably prefer to just replace it, and it looks like I am going to be doing it, mostly myself. I can ascend into the upper ranks of garage mechanics

Then you heard wrong.

Use a die grinder with a cut off wheel.

Don't tell me I cannot do what I have just done !

Obvoiusly, to instal a new bar, is the... 'right thing to do'....this WAS just an FYI after all.

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pawoSD · #35 11-18-2005, 02:00 PM

The other problem: there are no parts cars around here to take a piece of sway bar from.

also, if there were any parts cars, they'd all probably be rusted too....

Pete Burton · #36 11-18-2005, 02:10 PM

well, if it were me, I'd draw up a sketch and pay one of several people I know cash to make me a repair piece. Done right, it doesn't need to be welded at all because the repair piece is "captive". However you do it though, have fun!

pawoSD · #37 11-23-2005, 03:36 PM

Car is in the garage as of this morning (lots of cleaning was done to accomplish that) and we juuust avoided the BLIZZARD outside from covering it in snow first. Wshew. Now we are working on garage prep (installing a few more bright lights on the ceiling....a heater....and sealing the frame around the garage door with proper weather stripping to eliminate drafts. Then we will begin dissassembly and soon are going to place a Dealer order for a new swar bar and mounts, as well as some other items from fastlane.

Any tips on how to remove some of the items in the way of the sway bar would be appreciated.

I'm guessing the brake assembly will be one of the most annoying.....

WANT '71 280SEL · #38 11-23-2005, 04:40 PM

Just be sure to note where all the vacuum lines go. I think you may have to bench bleed the m. cylinder before re-installing but I'm not sure how to do that or exactly what it is. This job is just one of those you have to jump into and just do, it shouldn't be difficult, just time consuming.

Thanks
David

pawoSD · #39 11-23-2005, 04:50 PM

I've read both things on the master cylinder.....

Does it have to be bench bled or bled once its reinstalled? I always thought refilling the system with fluid and power bleeding it was good enough....