Need help, 87 300D transmission leak - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

lietuviai · #1 11-27-2005, 08:14 PM

I'm getting a bit desparate here. I have posted in tech help as well.
I'm having trouble locating the source of a leak from my transmission. I've noticed most of the dripping is occuring from the rear of the tranny but I can't drop it down far enough to see. I've checked the rear seal and its dry. It looked as if it was leaking from the kick down solenoid so I changed the o rings but it wasn't it. There were a few drips from the front but to me it didn't seem the source of the leak but there's no way to see for sure w/o dropping it completely. The pan gasket looks OK but again I'm not 100%. Where are the the common places these trannies leak from? I'd hate to spend all the time and work to drop the tranny for something I may be overlooking. Not that I want to but what could I expect to spend to have a indy MB shop fix a tranny leak?
Any help would be appreciated.

bodyart27 · #2 11-27-2005, 08:47 PM

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=93492

lietuviai · #3 11-27-2005, 09:50 PM

I only put new o rings on the bolt. So it's possible that I need a new bolt? How do these things wear out? Most of my leak is in exactly that same place but it seems bad enough that fluid collects in the rear tranny mount and makes a bad mess. I also have noticed there was oil around the governor cover (the round thing just above and a little further toward the front) but since it's out of reach and good sight w/o dropping the tranny completely, I wasn't sure if that was leaking or not. So do I have to get the bolt from MB or are there any other less expensive alternatives for it? BTW how much was it?

banshee350 · #4 11-27-2005, 10:53 PM

Are you talking about the first cover onthe pass side from the rear? If so that is where one of my leaks was also had the front pump leaking.I just got thru putting it back in. New pump oring ,tourqe converter seal ,rear out put seal and bearing, oring for govoner cover,dipstick tube seal.

lietuviai · #5 11-27-2005, 11:02 PM

Yes the rear one on the passenger side. I'm almost thinking if I have to pull the tranny out to fix these seals I might as well bite the bullet and get a rebuilt tranny. Who knows where I'll stop with replacing seals in it. The o-rings I replaced were hard as a rock.
It usually shifts smoothly though except on downshifts it seems to downshift on the hard side.

lietuviai · #6 11-28-2005, 10:15 PM

I called a local MB indy to get an idea on the cost of a reseal and they told me it would run about $800 to $1200 to get it done. The higher quote includes rebuilding the reverse clutches since they said it was worthwhile doing since it would be that far into the job. They said that a symptom of a worn rear pack was a lag in the engagement of reverse gear which I have. As the clutches wear the piston needs to travel further and further when eventually there's little material left and the springs end up tearing up the tranny.
I think I'll just put the new seals in myself and take my chances with the rear clutch packs.

Pete Burton · #7 11-29-2005, 08:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lietuviai

I called a local MB indy to get an idea on the cost of a reseal and they told me it would run about $800 to $1200 to get it done. The higher quote includes rebuilding the reverse clutches since they said it was worthwhile doing since it would be that far into the job. They said that a symptom of a worn rear pack was a lag in the engagement of reverse gear which I have. As the clutches wear the piston needs to travel further and further when eventually there's little material left and the springs end up tearing up the tranny.
I think I'll just put the new seals in myself and take my chances with the rear clutch packs.

They are being honest with you in respect to the reverse clutch pack (B3). However, as you have the front pump off, you'd want to replace the bushing (if it's a bearing, leave it) and at least check the clearance on the K1 pack (engages 3rd gear). If you have the pack out, might as well drill those rivets on the drum and replace that big o-ring. And if the bushing in the middle of the K1 drum has a groove in it from the thrust shims you should at least get that. And, well you get the idea. Have you priced a complete rebuild from a place like Sun Valley? You could R&R the thing yourself and avoid having to pull it back out in a year for the next thing to go. And if you pull it before those springs send chips to the torque converter, you can reuse it.

lietuviai · #8 11-29-2005, 09:22 PM

Thanks for the advice Pete. I do get the picture. I'll shop around for a rebuilt. I just have to see if it's worth shelling out so much for a "new" tranny or just get rid of the car and cut my losses. I just finished rebuilding the front end last week. I'm getting tired of losing my weekends to fixing cars and with this 124 I can find lots more to do.
Now I know why the PO sold it.

lietuviai · #9 11-29-2005, 10:09 PM

ty Brand Sku Description List Price Core Total
Warehouse:
1 SUNVALLEY 1987300D 722.317 Diesel Rebuilt Trans And Torque Converter 2,500.00 1,250.00 0.00 1,250.00
Core Charges: 0.00
Subtotal: 1,250.00
Additional Shipping Charge: 95.00 Shipping - (UPG): 168.18
Total Weight ( 149.50 pounds ):
WA Residents/Businesses pay 0.00% : 0.00
Order Total: 1,418.18

It doesn't sound too bad but where would it end? I have to seriously think it over.