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  #1  
Old 11-30-2005, 11:06 AM
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HOW LOUD is the car?

'85 300D

when the majority of the exhaust system is removed? I was wondering if it would be bearbale to run the car briefly in my garage with the exhauts consisting of a few inches of pipe beyond the down pipe.....Just curious. The car is on jackstands but I'd like to run it....I'll prolly just jury rig some canorpis of an exhaust for my inmediate purposes....

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  #2  
Old 11-30-2005, 11:19 AM
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It is by no means ear-splitting loud. It will just vibrate the pictures off the wall.
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  #3  
Old 11-30-2005, 02:10 PM
ForcedInduction
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As long as you don't revv it to 5000rpm, it should be bearable for a little while. I have run my car(s) without an exhaust system for 2 years now without any formal complaints from anyone. All I have is a 90* turn after the coupling to get the exhaust soot from the underbody. People say it would be too loud and annoying after a time, but I love it! It can be a bit much of a drone on long trips but thats what a radio is for!
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  #4  
Old 11-30-2005, 02:21 PM
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When my muffler/resonators finally rust out (they're well on their way) I am going with no resonators and a flowmaster, I want to achieve a deep "rumble" if I can....something cummins-like. I bet they'd love me around campus at school......and in our neighborhood here....
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  #5  
Old 11-30-2005, 02:25 PM
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You want a stright though muffle with a turbo....the flowmasters have baffles (well sort of) which you don't want...but I'm with you...if I ever get the cash for a TIG and learn to use it I want to weld up a 3" turbo back system...no resonator and straight through muffler.
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  #6  
Old 11-30-2005, 02:38 PM
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You can do it with a mig welder for far less.
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  #7  
Old 11-30-2005, 03:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pwogaman
You can do it with a mig welder for far less.
yeah..but I don't have one of those either...A Tig leaves you the cleanest looking welds....yeah for all the more I would use it I'd be better off paying someone....I've got a stick welder, and have an Oxy/acetylene setup I need tanks for..I see a Mig as a set up from a Stick welder but a step down from a TIG, but I agree there are times th eMig makes far better sense, and would be easier to use.
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Proud owner of ....
1971 280SE W108
1979 300SD W116
1983 300D W123
1975 Ironhead Sportster chopper
1987 GMC 3/4 ton 4X4 Diesel
1989 Honda Civic (Heavily modified)
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---------------------
"He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you." - Friedrich Nietzsche
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  #8  
Old 11-30-2005, 03:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pwogaman
You can do it with a mig welder for far less.
And a MIG is far, far simpler to master and get good welds on too.
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  #9  
Old 11-30-2005, 04:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boneheaddoctor
I see a Mig as a set up from a Stick welder but a step down from a TIG
FWIW, they all have their place in the world of welding.

SMAW is by far the easiest and most reliable way to join heavy steel. The only thing I'd trade for my ancient Miller spark box would be an engine-driven DC SMAW rig.

MIG is great for production, hobby work and quick stick-together fabbing but, it is doggone fussy about surface preparation. For grins and to make a point, I've laid down a great looking bead with MIG and popped it right off of the steel with a tap of a hammer.

I'd say that, unless you were regularly doing work for pay on aluminum or stainless, a TIG machine would be huge waste of resources and far too cumbersome to use for most shop welding.

Yep, occasionally we do burn some steel; that's 9" dia, 5/8" thick pipe — no MIGs allowed here!!

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Last edited by R Leo; 11-30-2005 at 04:18 PM.
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  #10  
Old 11-30-2005, 04:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pawoSD
When my muffler/resonators finally rust out (they're well on their way) I am going with no resonators and a flowmaster, I want to achieve a deep "rumble" if I can....something cummins-like. I bet they'd love me around campus at school......and in our neighborhood here....
you can actually put a flowmaster on a merc diesel?? if so how? i would like to do it!
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  #11  
Old 11-30-2005, 04:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boneheaddoctor
yeah..but I don't have one of those either...A Tig leaves you the cleanest looking welds....yeah for all the more I would use it I'd be better off paying someone....I've got a stick welder, and have an Oxy/acetylene setup I need tanks for..I see a Mig as a set up from a Stick welder but a step down from a TIG, but I agree there are times th eMig makes far better sense, and would be easier to use.
can't argue with this. I really want a TIG, but I'll make due with my MIG (Hobart Handler). I'm much happier with it now that I scrapped the original ground clamp and replaced it with a heavy-duty bronze/copper cast clamp with a tough spring. Still, I usually find myself using a higher heat setting than what the chart on the unit recommends so i can get the penetration.
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  #12  
Old 11-30-2005, 04:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greasybenz
you can actually put a flowmaster on a merc diesel?? if so how? i would like to do it!

i wouldnt put something that puts back pressure on the engine.. those mufflers are for gassers .. diesels like to breath.. easier for the air to escape the better.. so ive heard
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  #13  
Old 11-30-2005, 04:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by R Leo
FWIW, they all have their place in the world of welding.

SMAW is by far the easiest and most reliable way to join heavy steel. The only thing I'd trade for my ancient Miller spark box would be an engine-driven DC SMAW rig.

MIG is great for production, hobby work and quick stick-together fabbing but, it is doggone fussy about surface preparation. For grins and to make a point, I've laid down a great looking bead with MIG and popped it right off of the steel with a tap of a hammer.

I'd say that, unless you were regularly doing work for pay on aluminum or stainless, a TIG machine would be huge waste of resources and far too cumbersome to use for most shop welding.

Yep, occasionally we do burn some steel; that's 9" dia, 5/8" thick pipe — no MIGs allowed here!!


SInce a cheap TIG is $1,000 plus , and a good one far more its a stretch I will ever get one...I will likely end up with a Mig with Gas shielding..not the flux core wire crap...and have the right stuff for occaisonally welding aluminum...

No I am not a pro welder....but I like having what I need to do what I need 90% of the time. Which I will admit is not that frequently. I am in awe what a good welder can do with a TIG.....its a thing of beauty...
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Proud owner of ....
1971 280SE W108
1979 300SD W116
1983 300D W123
1975 Ironhead Sportster chopper
1987 GMC 3/4 ton 4X4 Diesel
1989 Honda Civic (Heavily modified)
---------------------
Section 609 MVAC Certified
---------------------
"He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you." - Friedrich Nietzsche
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  #14  
Old 11-30-2005, 04:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheDon
i wouldnt put something that puts back pressure on the engine.. those mufflers are for gassers .. diesels like to breath.. easier for the air to escape the better.. so ive heard
makes sense. i just love the sound of flowmaster. my dad has them on his 64 mustang conv and 66 mustang hardtop and i just love the deep growl they have when you rev or drive fast.
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  #15  
Old 11-30-2005, 05:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boneheaddoctor
I am in awe what a good welder can do with a TIG.....its a thing of beauty...
Agreed! A long-time friend of mine is a TIG welder. I've seen him fix stuff that you never dreamed could be repaired, much less welded. On a beer bet, late one Friday afternoon, I saw him weld two 12oz Miller Lite cans together... shortly after he'd drank them (and the rest of the 6-pack).

Quote:
I will likely end up with a Mig with Gas shielding..not the flux core wire crap...and have the right stuff for occaisonally welding aluminum...
Sometimes you have no choice but to use flux core. If you're in a location where the shielding gas will get blown away from the MIG gun's nozzle, cored wire is the only way to do the job.

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