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  #1  
Old 12-05-2005, 10:22 AM
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I rip the canister and plastic piece off to adjust the ALDA?

I know, I know the ALDA has been discussed to death and I have been searching, but it seems odd that I am supposed to just rip off the little metal and plastic piece to get to the ALDA adjustment. One DIY says to use needle nose and a screwdriver to tear it off. Is this really what I am supposed to do?

Thanks
Andrew

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  #2  
Old 12-05-2005, 11:25 AM
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Yup.
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  #3  
Old 12-05-2005, 12:14 PM
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Information you need

Organized MB DIY links
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=135055

Post #6, look for Diesel Injection: section.

Have a great day.
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  #4  
Old 12-05-2005, 12:27 PM
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Thanks much
Andrew
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  #5  
Old 12-05-2005, 01:26 PM
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i used a pair or needlenose pliers to tear it off. i was afraid to but then i got it going good and came off nice and easy like pealing an apple
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  #6  
Old 12-05-2005, 03:41 PM
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I was able to carefully pry the plastic out of the metal tube. Then I found a thin walled socket that fit in there and made the adjustment without destroying it. I presume the metal tube and plastic insert are there to keep the dirt out, but have no other function.
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  #7  
Old 12-05-2005, 04:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dlssmith
I was able to carefully pry the plastic out of the metal tube. Then I found a thin walled socket that fit in there and made the adjustment without destroying it. I presume the metal tube and plastic insert are there to keep the dirt out, but have no other function.
There there to preserve the factory calibration and keep people from tampering with them. We can all see how well it works at that.
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  #8  
Old 12-05-2005, 04:26 PM
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Considering how well hidden, and difficult to remove the ALDA is on the 603, I should think that tampering wouldn't be a big concern for the designers. It's not like I want to adjust it very often. Hopefully only once every 18 years!
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  #9  
Old 12-05-2005, 05:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dlssmith
Considering how well hidden, and difficult to remove the ALDA is on the 603, I should think that tampering wouldn't be a big concern for the designers. It's not like I want to adjust it very often. Hopefully only once every 18 years!
I've never seen a deep socket thin enough to fit the ALDA - where'ja find one?
BUT I'd like to know why no one has mentioned shims?
Adding space between the ALDA and the pin that comes into it from the IP accomplishes the same thing as cranking on the setscrew.

If I had the right one I'd shim my 603, it only needs a tiny bit more fuel. On the 617's I use a washer like used for a crush gasket, but they are pretty thick, I took one to a sharpening stone once to make it thinner and wore out my finger tips before it was measureably thinner. Then the 617's usually need a bunch more ALDA to make them run good offline.

Anybody got shims?
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  #10  
Old 12-05-2005, 05:16 PM
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ive got mine adjusted as far as i can go without shims.. i duno if i want to put a shim in.. or know how to
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  #11  
Old 12-05-2005, 05:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dieseldiehard
I've never seen a deep socket thin enough to fit the ALDA - where'ja find one?
BUT I'd like to know why no one has mentioned shims?
Adding space between the ALDA and the pin that comes into it from the IP accomplishes the same thing as cranking on the setscrew.

If I had the right one I'd shim my 603, it only needs a tiny bit more fuel. On the 617's I use a washer like used for a crush gasket, but they are pretty thick, I took one to a sharpening stone once to make it thinner and wore out my finger tips before it was measureably thinner. Then the 617's usually need a bunch more ALDA to make them run good offline.

Anybody got shims?


One member looked for them for me to no avail.



Once you get the plastic and metal down enough to see the nut on top, remove it then you can pull the rest of that collar off.
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  #12  
Old 12-05-2005, 05:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheDon
ive got mine adjusted as far as i can go without shims.. i duno if i want to put a shim in.. or know how to
That sounds pretty radical, if its all the way out I would not want to go any further.
The shims go between the mounting nut on the base of the ALDA and the IP.
Moving the ALDA awya from the IP has the same effect as cranking the adjusting screw, you can't fine tune performance the way you can with the adjusting screw but it preserves the appearance in case one wanted not to give away the fact that the ALDA had been tweaked. I used two shims on a 617 and that was almost too thick to get the nut tightened to the IP.
A thin wrench helps here.
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  #13  
Old 12-05-2005, 05:59 PM
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Where to get them

From a company like this:

http://www.phoenixspecialty.com/?referrer=Google

http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q=shim+stock+washers&btnG=Google+Search

All they need are dimensions.
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  #14  
Old 12-05-2005, 06:20 PM
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Be carefull with it!
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  #15  
Old 12-05-2005, 06:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whunter
now thats the biz to work in!

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