Hello all!
I have a old 190 1965 with a 200D motor from a W123, this engine is pretty much the same as in the 200D W115 and also original fintail diesel.
The motor has throttle and I have not figured out how it should be adjusted.
At full pedal I got maybe 75% at the pump and that is ok but not optimal.
The problem is that the throttle opens faster than the pump-lever.
This leads to starting problems and even slower acc. (is it possible to be slower )
How should the throttle be at starting and say half pedal?

I hope you understand what I am trying to say?! I will explain more if necessary.

I dont have a digital camera, othervise pictures would be attached.

Tried posting a few days ago but there is really heavy activity here!
Trying again if someone is familiar with throttle-diesels.

the leverage at one of the pivots so that the knob on the driven piece (from the gas pedal) is further from the pivot point, or visa versa. this will give more travel where you need it.

tom w

__________________
[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

should the throttle be closed when starting and max open at full pump?
Not sure I understand quite what you mean
This is not possible on my car, somewhere in the transplant something has gone wrong. I had a 200D W115 engine in the car before.

when no pressure on the gas pedal the pump setting should be on the stop. when you push it all the way to the floor the pump should be 100% open. i am thinking that there is a difference in the throttle linkage somewhere that gives the wrong leverage and hence not enough travel. changing the lever arm length somewhere in there should cure that.... if that is the trouble.

so to reiterate, examine your two throttle linkages (if you have both) and check the distance between the pivot point and the ball socket. somewhere i believe you will find a difference. another possibility is that you have an adjustment problem and you are starting with the pedal partly depressed and arent getting a full stroke. this could just be an adjustment solution. solved by shortening the link between the pedal and the first pivot.

also in my 240/300 when they assembled it they put the pivot point in the wrong hole on the firewall. we drove it that way for three years before we figured that out. of course we fixed it right before we sold it.

tom w

__________________
[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

Sounds like you have to modify the linkage bellcrank to get the travel to lengthen on the arm that is fastened to the pump lever. There will be a bellcrank somewhere in that linkage. It is the simplest method I can think of to extend travel and should only involve drilling a new hole in the bellcrank. A posted photograph would bring suggestions of where to drill the hole but first you have to establish how much more travel you want. The bellcrank is the device in the system that either changes linkage direction or is part of a transfer or side movement assembly. If that is so you have to extend the throw by making the transfer arm longer on the pump side or shorter on the pedal side. May be on the rod end from the pedal assembley and hard to access though. Another hole lower on the pump arm would do the same thing. Again photos of the layout would help a lot. One gentleman suggested just getting the slack out of the system may give you enough and he is right of course but think you have been there already perhaps. Basically you are changing the ratio of the linkage. For 1" of pedal movement you get say 2" of movement at the pump where you require !" of movement at the pedal to give you 3" of movement at the pump. On my 240ds there is a fitting that transfers rotary movement as well. Yours may or may not have that. If the rubbers are rotted out of it there is a rotary loss at that point that lessens available travel. Check to see if you have one of those or something simular. As i am unfamilar with your linkage set up. By the way as an owner of big powerful 240ds I still require every last bit of pump throw I can get.

Thanks guys.
Although I have net figured it out yet.
My car has a intake just like a gas-car, this is where trouble comes in.
The "mixture" between air and diesel, unknown.
I need to know the approx. settings on this diesel with air-restricted intake.

I know on the 240D the linkage goes past the "throttle" which I dont think exist on that car, it is just the easiest way to link it together.

Drilling a new hole seems like a good idea, were thinking about that before.
The first part of the linkage is ok, it is after the throttle that travel is too short.
The hole will be drilled in the plate near the pump.

All the best Steffo. It probably sounds worse than doing the actual modification really is. All I really know is the pump arm must be all the way advanced by the linkage when the pedal is depressed as the car does require the power for general driving. At the same time it must be able to go to minumum position when your foot is off the pedal. The lack of seeing your layout also makes any suggestions very hard. Think you will get it functional though with a little thought.

Well its not the mods that concern me, it is the fact that I dont have a manual and dont know how it was intended to work in the first place.
Have tried skinnerbox but its not working for me, only newer type engines there.
And it is very true I have to change the "gear ratio"!
Maybe there is 10hp to be found?
Hopefully I will drop a picture in christmas when I can take photos.

The intake is probably from a 190 gas engine so I think that is where problem starts, I got the car with a diesel engine.
Still use the same intake but removed the choke.
When I started the engine I was surpriced to see that rpm went down with more pedal? and then with more rpm went up.

Does your car have a butterfly in the intake, or just an open intake? Depending on what year engine you have, the older diesels used a venturi in the intake with a butterfly. As the butterfly was opened, the vacuum caused by the venturi would reduce and open a diaphragm at the back of the injection pump. There was still a lever at the pump but it was used more for fuel cutoff and anti-surge at idle and did not directly control fuel to the engine. This is what the original fintail engine had. Later diesels used an open intake with no butterfly and used the lever on the side of the pump for more fuel. Depending on which one you have, the causes for your problem would be different. If it is the later version, the pump lever should definitely be wide open with the foot-feed to the floor, and against the idle stop at idle.

Yes it has a "butterfly".
I tried to take it off when assemblimg the motor and the result was a stalling engine, had to mount it back and then all worked fine. Did not get a intake with the engine so I used the old one.
The pump has one lever for shutoff which is connected to the "dragstart" and one lever that is connected to all rods in the engine
The "gas-lever" goes to max 75% of its possible travel when pedal is to the floor, at the same time the "butterfly is wide open.

Remember that i checked the diaphragm and it was ok, but it was hard to understand the construction!

The shutoff lever (left side of pump) must be fully in the rear position when running. The lever on the right side should be all the way down when in the idle position. It does not have to go all the way up at full throttle. The butterfly must be wide open for full throttle. There should be a vacuum hose that runs from the butterfly to to the rear of the pump. This should be free of obstructions and in good shape. This is what controls the fuel to the injectors, where no vacuum gives full fuel, and full vacuum shuts the fuel down. A spring acting on the diaphragm at the rear of the pump pushes the fuel rack in the pump to the full fuel position normally, and the vacuum pulls the rack back. You should also check to make sure all the lines to the injector pump are in good shape and not sucking air, and that the fuel filter is not plugged.

As a last resort, there is an adjustable bolt at the rear of the pump down low that is the full load stop for the fuel delivery. Screwing it out gives more fuel at full throttle, and in less. Screwing it out too much will cause excessive smoking on acceleration. Shims can also be put behind the spring in the cap that holds the spring and diaphragm to increase maximum engine speed, but don't do this unless you know the engine is not revving to the specified maximum RPM.

One other possible cause is the butterfly/venturi setup. I don't know if the venturi and butterfly are different sizes between a 240 and a 200. If the 240 is bigger, and you are using a 200 manifold, then the engine may not be getting enough air and/or fuel.

OK!
Thanks.
Will check out before I post more.
I suspect one of the lines is leaking, also the shutoff has not been adjusted only
mounted.
Must check out line and try to renovate it, guess it would be best with new.
I understand how it works with the vacuum, this means I dont have to remodel the linkage until I know there is a
The engine is a 200D from a W123 I dont think it is common in the US, still has old starter with knob. Engine number has rusted bad so it is not readable.

Went to check out the problems.
The 1injector line is leaking and I have a spare which i smoothed out so it will be good tomorrow.
Also when I was looking at the line I heard a leak, it was the return hose from the first injector to the filter, it is really soaked with diesel and when I touched it thera was a "mouselike" sound, replacing tomorrow.
There is also an airleak in the intake so I will have to plug that, the idle will go down then hopefully.
The car is not bad to start when it has been running a few minutes so it is probably air in the fuel-system.