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  #1  
Old 12-15-2005, 08:13 AM
Clatterpastor
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Moore, OK
Posts: 280
Question Threading the chain tensioner on a 603

I'm installing a new chain tensioner and it doesn't seem to be as easy to thread the new one in as it was to take the old out. With the aluminum head I'm afraid of a cross-threading or otherwise damaging the head. Should I just wrench it in slowly?

Force + aluminum = BIG $$$$ MESS!!

Anyone have any wisdom here? Any 603 guys out there?
RP

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Rick
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Previously owned 126's: 2 1981 300SD's, 1987 300SDL, 1991 350SDL,
Previously owned 123's: 1978 300D, 1983 240D, 1985 300D
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Last edited by rgp123; 12-15-2005 at 02:41 PM.
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  #2  
Old 12-15-2005, 02:46 PM
Clatterpastor
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Moore, OK
Posts: 280
Bump for wondering...

Change of plans gives me more time to fiddle with this chain tensioner. It seems like it should go in like a glow plug or spark plug in an aluminum head. But the lubrication orifice just inside the threading seems to create a little drag on the tensioner keeping it from lining up correctly in the threads.

Thoughts?
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Rick
Avid Benz watcher

Previously owned 126's: 2 1981 300SD's, 1987 300SDL, 1991 350SDL,
Previously owned 123's: 1978 300D, 1983 240D, 1985 300D
Previously owned 124: 1994 320TE

Currently:
2004 Toyota Sequoia SR5 206k
2010 Ford Edge 122k
Always looking for the next MB diesel!
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  #3  
Old 12-15-2005, 04:13 PM
dannym's Avatar
I'm not here
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Deltona, Florida
Posts: 2,360
What I usually do is thread backwards until I feel the threads line up then thread the piece in.
I'm sure you would probably ruin the threads on the tensioner before you strip threads in the head. I know small consolation.

Danny
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  #4  
Old 12-15-2005, 04:35 PM
Clatterpastor
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Moore, OK
Posts: 280
Good practice

That's what I do but the aluminum head in the 603 will strip out far quicker than the steel in the tensioner. The 617 and 616 tensioners are the only ones I had done before. They bolt up externally not threaded into the block.
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Rick
Avid Benz watcher

Previously owned 126's: 2 1981 300SD's, 1987 300SDL, 1991 350SDL,
Previously owned 123's: 1978 300D, 1983 240D, 1985 300D
Previously owned 124: 1994 320TE

Currently:
2004 Toyota Sequoia SR5 206k
2010 Ford Edge 122k
Always looking for the next MB diesel!
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  #5  
Old 12-15-2005, 05:38 PM
BusyBenz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rgp123
That's what I do but the aluminum head in the 603 will strip out far quicker than the steel in the tensioner. The 617 and 616 tensioners are the only ones I had done before. They bolt up externally not threaded into the block.
I have had mine out numerous times and can tell you that you may feel some resistance! If the resistance becomes much harder, within a full turn,, back it out and try again. The amount of resistance should not ever necessitate a need for serious strong arming!
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  #6  
Old 12-15-2005, 06:42 PM
Clatterpastor
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Moore, OK
Posts: 280
That's what I thought

I knew it shouldn't take much "force" to turn it once it started on the right path. I may have cross-threaded the first couple of threads

My german car specialist lives around the corner and is coming by shortly. His tools and knowledge are my best neighbors!

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Rick
Avid Benz watcher

Previously owned 126's: 2 1981 300SD's, 1987 300SDL, 1991 350SDL,
Previously owned 123's: 1978 300D, 1983 240D, 1985 300D
Previously owned 124: 1994 320TE

Currently:
2004 Toyota Sequoia SR5 206k
2010 Ford Edge 122k
Always looking for the next MB diesel!
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