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#1
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undiscussed acc problem
I have searched this forum and not found a problem like mine. I hope someone can give me some help.
My car is a 1979 300sd. In the summer the acc works perfectly.(auto-low and auto-high work ) Thanks to Larry Bible for talking me into keeping it R12 freon...Even in Augusta Ga, in the summer, it will keep me cool. Now the problem, when I try to use my heater the auto-low and auto-high buttons will not work until I press the defrost or bi-level button. Once I press either of those buttons, the system works as it was designed. If I shut off the car, I once again have to push the defrost or bi-level button to get the heater to work correctly. It is not a huge problem since I can get the system to work...but I would like it to work as it came out of the factory. My thoughts are, if there are loose solder connections or if the servo is broken, why would work after pushing the defrost or bi-level buttons. Thanks Augusta |
#2
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This is a very common issue.
This is a very common issue.
Here is the fix: Fixing that Damn Climate Control! http://www.diymbrepair.com/Climate/
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ASE Master Mechanic asemastermechanic@juno.com Prototype R&D/testing: Thermal & Aerodynamic System Engineering (TASE) Senior vehicle instrumentation technician. Noise Vibration and Harshness (NVH). Dynamometer. Heat exchanger durability. HV-A/C Climate Control. Vehicle build. Fleet Durability Technical Quality Auditor. Automotive Technical Writer 1985 300SD 1983 300D 1984 190D 2003 Volvo V70 2002 Honda Civic https://www.boldegoist.com/ |
#3
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Quote:
http://www.imperialclub.com/Repair/Lit/Master/281/cover.htm
__________________
Proud owner of .... 1971 280SE W108 1979 300SD W116 1983 300D W123 1975 Ironhead Sportster chopper 1987 GMC 3/4 ton 4X4 Diesel 1989 Honda Civic (Heavily modified) --------------------- Section 609 MVAC Certified --------------------- "He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you." - Friedrich Nietzsche Last edited by boneheaddoctor; 12-16-2005 at 10:51 PM. |
#4
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Quote:
Gotta ask... are you waiting till the coolant reaches 104F? If you are, it sure sounds like something in that part of the system is fubar. A quick test for the servo sensor is to connect the two vacuum lines that go to the bottom of the servo. I'm too tired to dig up more references right now, but if that doesn't turn out to be the problem I'll dig it up. You could always look into this as well The Approach, Evaluation, and Exec. Summary are the only docs that really mean anything (and they could be much better... too bad time says no). Whenever the hardware itself is in a more presentable condition, I will be posting a good bit about it
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John Robbins '05 E320 CDI - 240k '87 300TD - 318k |
#5
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Sounds sorta coolant temp sensor fishy to me...
On the w123 and w126 body with auto climate control replacement of this unit is simple and fast Its behind the thermostat housing next to the EGR vac switch. Single pin with brass housing. |
#6
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Trying to use the heat, the auto-high or auto-low buttons do not work at any tempature. I think Tymbrymi has the answer. I realized there was a tempature sensor somewhere in the heating system, but I had no idea where.
One last question can this sensor be replaced or would I have to replace the servo?.....I think I know the answer to my question...replace the servo. If that is the answer I think I can live with the problem I am going out and pull the two vacuum lines All of you, thanks for your help Augusta |
#7
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Darn
Quote:
That is what I get for trying to answer a question when I have a nasty case of the flue. Proving once again that I am human. |
#8
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Coolant temp sensor on older systems
The sensor is integrated into the bottom of the ACC Servo mounted on the passenger front of the engine coompartment. I believe the vacuum lines going to it are yellow and black. Basically what it does is not allow any vacuum until the sensor reaches the correct temp. One line is the vacuum source line (should always have vacuum) and the other is the feed line to the rest of the system. As I remember you can unplug these from teh bottom of the servo and just connect them to each other and the system will function below normal operating temps. Very simple test and it is in fact the first one in the troubleshooting guide for this Servo based system.
That servo system is a real pain. There are so many variables in it (look at the number of vacuum lines and electrical connections going into the thing) that most everyone seems to either end up buying a replacement or bypassing it. However this is usually upon failiure when the body cracks which is the most common failure. If your issue is only that temp sensor then you are way ahead of the game.
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'99 S420 - Mommies '72 280SE 4.5 - looking to breathe life into it '84 300SD Grey - Sold '85 300SD Silver - Sold '78 Ski Nautique |
#9
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Quote:
__________________
Proud owner of .... 1971 280SE W108 1979 300SD W116 1983 300D W123 1975 Ironhead Sportster chopper 1987 GMC 3/4 ton 4X4 Diesel 1989 Honda Civic (Heavily modified) --------------------- Section 609 MVAC Certified --------------------- "He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you." - Friedrich Nietzsche |
#10
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I connected them together and it did not change anything. I think I am going to quit while I am ahead. I am afraid if I start messing around with 26 year old vaccum lines that I could create a bigger problem. I guess I should feel lucky that this is the only issue I have with the acc and servo
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