Pictorial on diesel vacuum troubleshooting basics
 

I just finished up the latest pictorial on how to troubleshoot your diesel vacuum system basics. I will cover the entire car in different pictorials as time allows.

http://dieselgiant.com/mercedesvacuumtroubleshooting.htm

enjoy:D

I really enjoyed this.
 

Great work. Thanks. When you say : "The nipples are small and very fragile and prone to cracking. If one breaks you will have to replace the entire line." do you mean the entire line with all fitting and T's and such going from the pump to the brake booster thingy? I broke a nipple off a T and was hoping to replace the T but trying to get the broken T out of the main tube seems like it is going to be tough. I have not tried hard yet but wont waste my time if it is a good idea to just replace the whole line when this happens.

thanks.

Ohhh I likey!! good job wanna do a body drain one?

YEAH!!!!!!! YOU ROCK

So, when testing a vaccume line, what pressure do you take it to?
When you check vaccume to the master cylinder, is the engine running?

Bacicly, Can you tell me/us how to properly do a vaccume test? I'm clueless as to how its done, and I may or maynot be the only one

Thanks alot DG, I really appreciate your awesome write ups and tutorials.
~Nate

Excellent write-up. I have to rebuild the vacuum pump on my '85 300GD. Not getting enough vacuum to the booster.:mad:

When are you going to do a write up on pumps? :D

Ok to test the supply line like in the pictorial the engine is running. A perfect vacuum is 30hg but only in theory. Around 25 is fine. To test other components use your hand vacuum pump and pump it up untill you get to around 25 or when the needle stops moving.

Testing componants is engine off, correct?

Thanks DG, your awesome

When you are testing the lines and rubber connectors I just keep the car running and use my non hand pump vacuum gauge. To test the check valves and other bit I usually remove them from the car and use my hand pump. But in reality either way is fine, just do what is easiest and requires the least amount of "dis-connecting."

Bravo once again for another fantastic write-up. Thanks for taking the time to go step-by-step and explain these things. They're worth their weight in gold.:cool:

This came just in time, as my newly aquired one needs vac work in the engine compt.

Winter is a good time to do vacuum work, all the lines get brittle and hard to connect.:(