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  #1  
Old 12-24-2005, 12:14 AM
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Boost Gauge

I want to install a boost gauge. I don't intend to increase fuel or anything, I just want to know I have stock boost. I really like the look of the VDO 15 PSI gauge. If I remember right, stock boost for the 603 engines is 14 PSI. So the 15 PSI gauge should be all I need right? I could get the 30 PSI but the 15 is so clean and it would be easier to read at a glance while negotiating a mountain highway at 75 MPH. Any suggestions?
Brian

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Old 12-24-2005, 12:47 AM
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Organized MB DIY links: Engine Mechanical: + Exhaust:

Organized MB DIY links: Engine Mechanical: + Exhaust:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?p=1049695#post1049695

Turbo boost guage advice needed
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?p=384697#post384697

Accessory Guage Panel Installed in W210 E300 Turbodiesel!
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?p=877328#post877328
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  #3  
Old 12-24-2005, 11:08 AM
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hey thanks whunter....I looked thru those links earlier but I missed the one about the gauge. I need some way to moniter the boost so that I can see if everything is working as it should. I'd like a tad more boost from takeoff, it's kind of sluggish till I get rolling.
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  #4  
Old 12-24-2005, 11:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dieselmania
I'd like a tad more boost from takeoff, it's kind of sluggish till I get rolling.
The engine doesn't produce any serious boost until it reaches about 2400 rpm. The nature of these engines is that they are decent at low rpm's but not exactly rockets. You should drive another vehicle for comparison. The complaint of low speed "sluggishness" is highly personal and dependent on the expectations of the driver.

In any case, the basics need to be verified: cam timing, injection timing and valve lash.

You are wasting your time chasing a boost issue.
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  #5  
Old 12-24-2005, 12:31 PM
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True

Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Carlton
The engine doesn't produce any serious boost until it reaches about 2400 rpm. The nature of these engines is that they are decent at low rpm's but not exactly rockets. You should drive another vehicle for comparison. The complaint of low speed "sluggishness" is highly personal and dependent on the expectations of the driver.

In any case, the basics need to be verified: cam timing, injection timing and valve lash.

You are wasting your time chasing a boost issue.
True.
Though it may be a good idea to have a boost gauge and voltmeter.
As a basic diagnostic tool, they are hard to beat.
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  #6  
Old 12-24-2005, 01:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Carlton
The complaint of low speed "sluggishness" is highly personal and dependent on the expectations of the driver.

In any case, the basics need to be verified: cam timing, injection timing and valve lash.
Cleaning the pressure line from the intake manifold to the switchover valve has been known to cure "sluggishness." Along with adjusting the ALDA.
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  #7  
Old 12-24-2005, 02:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tangofox007
Cleaning the pressure line from the intake manifold to the switchover valve has been known to cure "sluggishness." Along with adjusting the ALDA.
It's "kind of sluggish until it gets rolling". This tells me that the boost is present and working. Cleaning the banjo bolt and line won't provide any benefit.

The ALDA adjustment certainly would.
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  #8  
Old 12-24-2005, 02:20 PM
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My Boost Gauge and Voltage Gauge Setup....

Here is how I have mine setup....Volt Gauge, 12V outlet, and Boost Gauge...the gauges are "AutoMeter" brand, made in USA, very high quality. They have metal casings and I was quite impressed. My "pod" isn't the best/nicest looking, but it looks ok and gets the job done, plus its really sturdy. I used a piece of poplar wood and stained it....the black panel above it is my kenwood sirius headunit, it folds up and hides when its turned off.

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  #9  
Old 12-24-2005, 04:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pawoSD
Here is how I have mine setup....Volt Gauge, 12V outlet, and Boost Gauge...the gauges are "AutoMeter" brand, made in USA, very high quality. They have metal casings and I was quite impressed. My "pod" isn't the best/nicest looking, but it looks ok and gets the job done, plus its really sturdy. I used a piece of poplar wood and stained it....the black panel above it is my kenwood sirius headunit, it folds up and hides when its turned off.

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I really want one of those headunits that hides itself so you dont have to take off the faceplate.. Do you have the model number? Where did you get it?

Thanks,
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  #10  
Old 12-24-2005, 05:11 PM
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15.964 PSI to be exact

Tee or Y into the over-boost protection circuit line that runs from the charge manifold to the left fender wall. Cake install. I'd still go with the 0-15, that will be plenty. The over boost protection switch opens at 1.1 ±.15 bar or 15.9642 ± 2.18 PSI. (09.10 III -200/1) The most you should ever see is the 15.9 PSI, and according to the graph in the book, you should normally see between 12.34 to 13.78 PSI under load above 1800 RPM.
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  #11  
Old 12-24-2005, 06:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Carlton
It's "kind of sluggish until it gets rolling". This tells me that the boost is present and working. Cleaning the banjo bolt and line won't provide any benefit.
It sure did on my car. You can have all the boost in the world and still have poor performance if the crossover line is blocked. In any case, the cost/benefit ratio is quite favorable.

And "kind of sluggish until it gets rolling" could be "highly personal and dependent on the expectations of the driver."
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  #12  
Old 12-24-2005, 06:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tangofox007
It sure did on my car. You can have all the boost in the world and still have poor performance if the crossover line is blocked. In any case, the cost/benefit ratio is quite favorable.

And "kind of sluggish until it gets rolling" could be "highly personal and dependent on the expectations of the driver."
True. I was taking him at his word and making the assumption that the boost was OK.

True.
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  #13  
Old 12-24-2005, 06:44 PM
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OK maybe everything is fine. I just did three 0-60 tests, 16.5 seconds. I see the specs say 15.5 sec but then I am at 2200' elevation which might make a difference. I see some people with faster times than this, I would like to maximize mine without risking any detriment to the engine or head. I can feel the turbo kick in right at 2400RPM just like Brian said.
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  #14  
Old 12-24-2005, 06:59 PM
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Something is amiss.

A 1987 300D turbo should be doing a 0-60 time in the 10.5 second range.

The SDL, with the same engine, runs about 11.5 seconds, typically.

The higher elevation will increase the times slightly, but not by more than 1 second.
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  #15  
Old 12-24-2005, 10:25 PM
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The stereo headunit I have is a Kenwood KDC-519....though they offer newer models that fold like that (in even more elaborate ways, should see the one in our 83!!) Mines from 2002, I got it a year old, used, on ebay for $86 nearly a year ago. The model in our 83 is a Kenwood KDC-MP825, got it on ebay refurbished for $139.99. It can play mp3 cd's and such (mine cannot) but with sirius you don't really need cd's period. Aside from the occassional reboot (maybe once every couple months it will turn on but put out no sound, requiring a press of the reset button) it works great, with awesome sound! Haven't had to reboot the one in the 83 ever....its been in there 7 months or so....

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'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
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