Makes sense. I feel so stupid. I can't believe I didn't think about your explanation, and I should have, I am an Engineer.


Thanks

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'95 E300 Diesel, 264,000 Miles. [Sold it]

By coincidence I used the car today (it is my wifes) and she had left it with virtually no fuel in it. It was very difficult to get it started - the worst the car has ever ever been. I will know tomorrow whether a full tank of fuel makes a difference.

Barney,
Sorry I did not see your post until just now regarding which line does not match the parts catalog. The line in question is the line immediately to the left of the "107" in the drawing below. The middle one of the three in a row, is in fact different on my car than the drawing shows. On the drawing that line terminates in a banjo fitting on the lower (IP) end. On my car it has a "press fit O-ring type" fitting at both ends. I still have not found the correct replacement line.

By the way, if any of y'all are going to go to the trouble of pulling the manifold to change these lines, I suggest replacing the lift pump also. Our cars all seem to be getting up in miles now, and this is a cheap preventative measure. On my car, I was having an issue that the car would start fine, but stall about 4-5 minutes after starting. The other symptom was that when I opened the gas tank, I would always have a huge "whoosh" sound (never figured out if it was blowing or sucking!). I replaced the pump and all was well again. It's relatively cheap and very easy to change, presuming you have the manifold off. I've always been amazed that this is the only fuel pump on the car!

Rgds,
Chris W.

Attached Thumbnails

 

Hi Chris,

Thanks for this. We have exactly the same line "mismatch". I have been to the local MB dealer and picked up new lines 65 and 86 in the diagram. These are the two lines that have air bubbles in them in my car. I am hoping this solves my problem. I have also checked out the mismatch on line 107 and have found a different parts list with part number A605 070 1532 (shown on that diagram as line 95) - supposedly for a different vehicle but with the right attachments. I am going to order one of these if the problems are not fixed with the two lines I already have.
I also checked out the price of the fuel pump lifter assy here is UK and it is about $190 - (@1.75 $ to the £) - is it a lot cheaper in the US? I did not think this was cheap enough to replace even though I do get the same "whoosh" when opening the filler cap!

When you order the fuel lines, doesn't the dealer ask you for your car's VIN number?

Here in Canada, my Dealer always asks me for my VIN number, to insure that he orders, and gets the right part. Apperantly there could be different part numbers for the same year and model car.

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'95 E300 Diesel, 264,000 Miles. [Sold it]

Yes he sure does - same system. Just on this occasion the parts system is showing one thing and the car has a different part fitted. Chris' post includes an attachment which is in fact the MB parts catalog for our cars - shows a banjo fitting - this is not on the car.
To be honest with all the components on a car and all the changes I am surprised this does not happen more often- first time I have seen it on a MB.

Actually it happened to me recently. I went to order a small coolant hose from my Mercedes Dealeer, gave him my VIN number and was told it will take 1 week to arrive from Germany. A week later the hose that came in did not fit. The guy double checked his system and confirmed that he did order the right part based on my VIN number. He even double checked my VIN number himself.

He then looked at my old hose, (still on the car) found a part number on it and ordered it based on the part number, and not based on the VIN. number.

A week later I got the right hose. This however is the exception, and NOT the rule.

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'95 E300 Diesel, 264,000 Miles. [Sold it]

Hi again Barney,

At the time, Phil from FastLane researched my mystery line more (and yes, we were working with the VIN number!) and sent exactly the same part number (A605 070 1532 ) to me as the alternative to what the part book showed, and when it arrived it was the wrong line. When it arrived, it was in a bag without any identifying part number on it however, so there is a chance that in fact they sent the wrong line.

Please keep us (me) posted as to whether the 1532 line turns out to be the right line for you!

By the way, the lift pump was $144 here, one year ago. OK, it's not cheap, but in the big scheme of things it's not too bad by my standards.

By the way, just out of curiosity, what's your VIN? Mine is WDBEB31E2SC072474.

Rgds,
Chris W.
'95 E300D, 199,750 miles, driving like it should again with new front struts, ball joints, steering shock, tie rods, drag link, and rear shocks

Hi Chris,

yes will keep you posted. My plan for the time being is to replace lines 65 and 86 and see if it provides a solution (these are the lines with the air bubbles in and they are both accessible without removing the manifold). If it does not work then I will order the other lines and get the manifold off again, probably will replace the lift assy at that time for the sake of £100. Having had your reply I may just order that "107" line and see what arrives - at least it will buy me a bit of time if I do need to replace it. If I get the right one I can always order another and ship it to you.

VIN number on my car is WDB124 1912F327530 registered Nov 95.

It has now done 155k miles - bought by me at 30k miles with a plan to keep 2 years - 7 years later it is still here...... it is going to need a few more things soon - like engine mounts, front prop joint, alternator drive belt, shock assy behind that belt - it it getting to that mileage where it needs some money. Only real expense before glow plugs was a furred up radiator.

By the way have you replaced the alternator (or brushes) - I have been wondering when I should change these as I know it will fail at an inconvenient time if I do not!

rgds

Wow, those VIN's are way different... I don't have a decoder handy but it does not look easy to compare.

In fact I did my alternator brushes a short while ago. I thought I might have been having some problems charging but it turned out to be a battery going bad. The brush/voltage regulator job is a piece of cake. The alternator removal is one of the easiest I've done. Put slack in the serpentine belt using the tensioner - it's easy. Get under the car and remove two bolts, alternator comes out bing bang. Replace brush package on bench, another bing bang job. Put alternator back, put tension back in belt, done. Keep old one for spare.

Just don't do what I did. When I had the alternator on the bench, I blasted it all over/inside with spray electrical cleaner. Neglected to shake it out/drain it all, so when I put the thing back up under the car, with my face right under it, I got a face full of electrical cleaner as it all dripped out on to me. Fortunately I could see again after a half hour or so..... and fortunately no lasting affects.

Rgds,
Chris W.

I am going to change the lines tomorrow - it looks very simple - is there anything I need to look out for? The white clips seem to work that you push them in to release them - is this right? I will also change the pre filter and o ring - also looks simple.

Correct - push to release.

__________________
Rick Miley
2014 Tesla Model S
2018 Tesla Model 3
2017 Nissan LEAF
Former MB: 99 E300, 86 190E 2.3, 87 300E, 80 240D, 82 204D Euro
Chain Elongation References

Chris,

To update you - I replaced the two lines that run to the fuel pump along with the pre filter and O ring. I did them one at a time - the pre filter made no difference - it was only when I changed the two lines that the air bubbles disappeared. Looking at the old lines it is obvious that it is simply the o rings that have aged and were starting to allow air to be sucked in. The car is starting and running better now. It has made me realise that I should change the other two lines as well (I had already changed one that ran under the inlet manifold) so I ordered those - inc the one with the mismatch against the parts catalog.
I just picked them up today and the line with the 1532 number has arrived with the correct fitting for my car - the push fit connector with the white clip and not the banjo union shown in the parts catalog.
If you still have trouble getting one in US let me know and I will get you one here - the cost was around US $13-14 inc tax. I guess the postage will not be too expensive. Let me know.

Hi Barney,

Since that line is so cheap, I'm going to take a chance at ordering it again, this time from the local dealer, and see if I get the right one this time. If not, I'll shoot you a note or post to the thread again and "order" one from you! I appreciate the offer.

When everything is right, i.e. no air in the lines, my car starts virtually instantly, even when cold. I don't think it even turns over once before it fires up!

Regards,
Chris W.

Chris,
Just let me know.