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  #16  
Old 09-13-2006, 11:45 PM
bgkast's Avatar
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Location: Vancouver WA
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When I find an extra few hundred dollars I am planning to add a VDO boost and pyrometer. Is the boost/vacuum gauge needed in a diesel?

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1979 240D- 316K miles - VGT Turbo, Intercooler, Stick Shift, Many Other Mods - Daily Driver

1982 300SD - 232K miles - Wife's Daily Driver

1986 560SL - Wife's red speed machine
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  #17  
Old 09-13-2006, 11:55 PM
ForcedInduction
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bgkast View Post
When I find an extra few hundred dollars I am planning to add a VDO boost and pyrometer. Is the boost/vacuum gauge needed in a diesel?
Vacuum isn't needed. Most people use them because a pressure-only gauge can be hard to find in this country full of g@ssers.

BTW, I'd go with ISSPRO gauges for your boost and pyro. They have MUCH better night visibility than VDO. They light all the numbers and pointer insted of just reflecting around the edge as the VDO does.
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  #18  
Old 09-14-2006, 12:14 AM
ForcedInduction
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Originally Posted by ForcedInduction View Post
BTW, I'd go with ISSPRO gauges for your boost and pyro. They have MUCH better night visibility than VDO. They light all the numbers and pointer insted of just reflecting around the edge as the VDO does.
Example. Gauges on the left and right are ISSPRO, middle is VDO.
Pyro (100-1600) - intake boost (0-15psi) - turbo drive pressure (0-30psi)
Attached Thumbnails
Boost gauge intake fitting-lmn-center-gauges-night-s.jpg  
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  #19  
Old 09-14-2006, 01:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pawoSD View Post
My gauges are AutoMeter brand, and were pretty expensive (about $30 each).....here's my "cluster" Voltmeter, 12V outlet, and Boost Gauge:



I also have an Oil Temp Gauge laying in the garage that I paid a bundle for but never ended up using. Maybe I will install it someday....
Where did you hook up for your boost? You did what I want to do, add the 12V outlet as well (Radioshack?).

Quote:
Originally Posted by rebreath View Post
I used a brake line converter(makes a previously standard fitting and mates it to a metric fitting)and the appropriately lengthed(shortest)brake line and fittings.cost me about 5 bucks!After trimming down the length of the brakeline ,i slightly "roughed" the end with pliers and slipped the boost line on.no pinching,no fuss.this is an "off the floor stand" part.no ordering,no waiting!
Post a picture of what you did.


I am obvously installing boost, and also Pyrometer. I am just going to have to TIG weld in the bung fitting, and ill be good to go.
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Current Stable:
1994 S500 v140, 210k miles, white with grey.

Former Mercedes in the Stable:
1983 300CD Turbo diesel 515k mi sold (rumor has it, that it has 750k miles on it now)
1984 300CD Turbo Diesel 150 k mi sold
1982 300D Turbo Diesel 225 sold
1987 300D Turbo Diesel 255k mi sold
1988 300 CE AMG Hammer 15k mi sold
1986 "300E" Amg Hammer 88k mi sold (it was really a 200, not even an E (124.020)
1992 500E 156k mi sold
etc.
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  #20  
Old 09-14-2006, 03:15 AM
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Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 3,473
Quote:
Originally Posted by thorsen View Post
Go to your local auto parts store and get a 10x1.0mm brake bleeder. It screws right into the plug in the manifold and you can connect rubber tubing to the opposite end.
Are you talking about a plastic speed bleeder fitting or a metal fitting?
__________________
Current Stable:
1994 S500 v140, 210k miles, white with grey.

Former Mercedes in the Stable:
1983 300CD Turbo diesel 515k mi sold (rumor has it, that it has 750k miles on it now)
1984 300CD Turbo Diesel 150 k mi sold
1982 300D Turbo Diesel 225 sold
1987 300D Turbo Diesel 255k mi sold
1988 300 CE AMG Hammer 15k mi sold
1986 "300E" Amg Hammer 88k mi sold (it was really a 200, not even an E (124.020)
1992 500E 156k mi sold
etc.
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  #21  
Old 09-14-2006, 07:53 AM
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Chicagoland
Posts: 1,248
Quote:
Originally Posted by omegabenz View Post
Are you talking about a plastic speed bleeder fitting or a metal fitting?
Mine was metal. You don't want the speed-bleeders - they have a check valve in them. I picked up mine from AutoZone, it was behind the counter where they keep the studs and nuts, and clost less than $1.
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  #22  
Old 09-14-2006, 12:46 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 3,473
so you went from the brake bleeder to some rubber hose, to the 1/8 inch hard vaccum line to your boost gauge?
__________________
Current Stable:
1994 S500 v140, 210k miles, white with grey.

Former Mercedes in the Stable:
1983 300CD Turbo diesel 515k mi sold (rumor has it, that it has 750k miles on it now)
1984 300CD Turbo Diesel 150 k mi sold
1982 300D Turbo Diesel 225 sold
1987 300D Turbo Diesel 255k mi sold
1988 300 CE AMG Hammer 15k mi sold
1986 "300E" Amg Hammer 88k mi sold (it was really a 200, not even an E (124.020)
1992 500E 156k mi sold
etc.
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  #23  
Old 09-15-2006, 08:06 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 3,473
Quote:
Originally Posted by ForcedInduction View Post
I'm pretty sure 1/8 NPT fits. It works for the front plug on my 79 SD manifold.
It turns out that M10x1.0 and 1/8 NPT are very similar in size, but they are not the same. But you could force it in there, but no only does autometer make the adapter, but also does Stewart warner, and they have M10, M12, and M14 in a kit from napa for 20 dollars. Autometer makes several others as well.
__________________
Current Stable:
1994 S500 v140, 210k miles, white with grey.

Former Mercedes in the Stable:
1983 300CD Turbo diesel 515k mi sold (rumor has it, that it has 750k miles on it now)
1984 300CD Turbo Diesel 150 k mi sold
1982 300D Turbo Diesel 225 sold
1987 300D Turbo Diesel 255k mi sold
1988 300 CE AMG Hammer 15k mi sold
1986 "300E" Amg Hammer 88k mi sold (it was really a 200, not even an E (124.020)
1992 500E 156k mi sold
etc.
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  #24  
Old 09-15-2006, 10:43 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Chicagoland
Posts: 1,248
Quote:
Originally Posted by omegabenz View Post
so you went from the brake bleeder to some rubber hose, to the 1/8 inch hard vaccum line to your boost gauge?
Correct. I used some Automotive Goop where the hardline slipped into the rubber hose to help seal it.

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