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  #1  
Old 01-07-2006, 08:42 AM
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124 (92 300d 2.5) foot heat issue

as in i've got no heat coming out at floor level. i fixed my old wagon (123) when i had this problem, but was wondering if they were close to the same beast. does the 124 have pods for the flaps? i mean, is this a vaccuum issue?

i don't have heat coming out any of the floor vents clicking any of the buttons.

thanks

david

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newfane, vt
84 300td 223k modified greasel conversion (sold)
92 300d 2.5 185k with frybrid kit
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  #2  
Old 01-08-2006, 08:20 AM
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anyone?
it appears that maybe this car is omehwat of an anomoly. anytime i post a thread that has "124 300d 2.5" in the title, they keep drifting down the page and disappear. perhaps i just need to search harder.
any help would be appreciated.

david
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newfane, vt
84 300td 223k modified greasel conversion (sold)
92 300d 2.5 185k with frybrid kit
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  #3  
Old 01-08-2006, 09:21 AM
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Location: Milford, DE
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http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=35373
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  #4  
Old 01-08-2006, 10:20 AM
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I have had a similar experience asking about wiring in my 124. wish I could help you with the heat problem, but instead i have questions

1 - when you installed the wiring in your 124 where did you go from under the hood and to the trunk? where did you mount your gauges?

2 - also, where did you tap into the coolant return (the coolant supply is obvious, but the return seems to snake through the battery compartment and then down below the reservior before entering the bottom of the engine)?


thanks
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  #5  
Old 01-08-2006, 10:23 AM
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thanks! i don't know why that one didn't show in my searches... maybe cuz i was spelling it vaccuum.

david
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newfane, vt
84 300td 223k modified greasel conversion (sold)
92 300d 2.5 185k with frybrid kit
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  #6  
Old 01-08-2006, 10:33 AM
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Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Evansville, Indiana
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Yes, a bad servo will cause a not floor heat condition, but you will only get floor heat if conditions call for it -- don't know what the outside temp is.

The best way to check is to pull the glove box and test each of the connections to the switchover valve on the side of the heater box -- they must all hold vac and the servos must move. The right angle connectors on the hard plastic lines are often bad by now -- I replaced all of them on the TE a couple years ago, none would seal well.

The servo for the floor flaps is on the front of the heater box, and I believe you must remove the console to get it off.

Peter
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1972 220D ?? miles
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  #7  
Old 01-08-2006, 12:16 PM
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i'd love to look behind the glove box, but i have an airbag. i get a bit nervous poking around there. i've got a buzzing sound that i've half-heartedly try to figure out coming from behind there, and i imagine getting hit in the face with an airbag.

Quote:
1 - when you installed the wiring in your 124 where did you go from under the hood and to the trunk? where did you mount your gauges?

2 - also, where did you tap into the coolant return (the coolant supply is obvious, but the return seems to snake through the battery compartment and then down below the reservior before entering the bottom of the engine)?
1 all the wiring i ran through near the brake fluid "compartment" of the engine bay. there are a bunch of places where wires and vac lines go through, and i just picked one to add my wires through. my guages i mounted on the shifter area, just below the ashtray. lots of room for one fuel guage and plenty of lights and switches.

2 the coolant return i spliced in just under the turbo. a lot of those snaking lines are metal, and there are a few places where they are rubber. i put in my 5/8 tee where it was convenient.

david

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newfane, vt
84 300td 223k modified greasel conversion (sold)
92 300d 2.5 185k with frybrid kit
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