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  #16  
Old 01-08-2006, 10:51 AM
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Location: Grand Rapids, MI
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When its warm I don't have to touch the pedal at all, when its cold-er I slightly press it (not even 10%).....when its REAL cold I first crank without pressing it till I can hear it firing, then I press the pedal to about 25%, and it starts right up.

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  #17  
Old 01-08-2006, 10:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by biopete


Anyway, I will recheck it tomorrow (Its gonna be 60 and sunny ) and take photos and make a how to out of it using Haynes manual and you alls great explanations. We definitely need a summary of the 50 threads on the subject,
I ran into this procedure this morning.

http://diymbrepair.com/easley/iptiming.htm

It appears to be simple and accurate. It may be all that is required, and the drip tube is eliminated.
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  #18  
Old 01-08-2006, 02:52 PM
69 mercedes 220d
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Bozeman, Montana
Posts: 417
gp ream

Wasn't quite sure what you meant by the 9/32" gp hole ream. If this is removing steel from the prechamber, I don't think that is good as high pressure gasses, due to their non-homogeneous nature in the pc-chamber, are going to vibrate the gp due to differential pressures created by combustion. If one has a bad spray pattern the fuel/air tends more to detonate, like a gas engine, and create high-pressure shock waves that can wreck gp's very quickly. If 9/32" is only a clean-up pass on the carbon buildup in the gp hole, then no problem. In my opinion.
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  #19  
Old 01-08-2006, 03:02 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Iowa City, IA
Posts: 1,647
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ralph69220d
Wasn't quite sure what you meant by the 9/32" gp hole ream. If this is removing steel from the prechamber, I don't think that is good as high pressure gasses, due to their non-homogeneous nature in the pc-chamber, are going to vibrate the gp due to differential pressures created by combustion. If one has a bad spray pattern the fuel/air tends more to detonate, like a gas engine, and create high-pressure shock waves that can wreck gp's very quickly. If 9/32" is only a clean-up pass on the carbon buildup in the gp hole, then no problem. In my opinion.
Yeah, 9/32 just takes it through the carbon. At firt it would not go through. I got 1/4 though with a little twisting and pushing. Reamed. Then Tried 9/32. It got through same as I did the 1/4 bit this time. I did not have the next 10/32 drill bit but the 11/32 would not go through so I stopped. I was curious wath the diameter of the $120.00 glow plug ream tool was but never found out. opefully no one thinks they should ream the holes larger than MB made them .
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  #20  
Old 01-08-2006, 04:01 PM
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Here's a thought. Could the amount of blowby evident at the oil fill cap be effected by whether or not the check valve at the bottom of the oil return tube from he air filter is functioning correctly or not? If that valve is not sealing correctly, blowby could be sucked from the upper oil pan area directly into the air cleaner without having to rise to the valve cover and out the traditional route?
So, on a high mileage 617 with little blowby, this valve may be malfunctioing, whereas on a high mileage 617 with a lot of blowby at the oil filler, the valve may still be operating correctly?
Has anyone tried putting a Mity Vac on that oil return out of curiousity to see if that check valve is operating?
Opinions?

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