|
|
|
#16
|
|||
|
|||
Maybe someone should post a list of what to Loctite/Antiseize
Flywheel bolts and oil pan bolts crankshaft pulley bolts and engine bolts definitely get loctite, but sometimes you need to go the otherway and use Antiseize.
Sometimes I wonder whether you should be putting loctite on brake caliper bolts or antiseize. Seems like you would want to use loctite, but they usually oxidize in place, and sometimes since I'm always redoing my brakes, i have been tempted to use antiseize....likewise for interior bolts which i use antiseize on since i will revisit them often |
#17
|
|||
|
|||
I'd be interested in some links/advice on what to loctite/never seize as well. All bolts in the rear subframe had loctite pre-applied from lemforder (bolts/mounts had the star on them, i can't imagine dealerships stripping the loctite off when the get the parts...). I've seen wheel studs with never seize as well, although I can't think of a bolt on my car (w201 16v) that has a lock washer. Maybe MB took NASA's advice? I've never found this sort of general advice in the service manual; assumed MB taught it in some sort of training course.
cheers, dan |
#18
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
And all the brake caliper mounting bolts come from the factory with blue locking material on the threads but I admit I never used locktite when replacing them and none have ever come loose (yet!) Putting locktite on threaded fasteners that can and will be a problem to someone someday when the parts need to be removed is not something I think about when working on an engine, and I do not use it hardly ever. I will however add antisieze on just about anything that is subject to water and corrosion or high temps like exhaust studs and turbo bolts. An exception is glow plugs, I read something about the silvery molybdenum disulphide causing electrolysis with aluminum, so I have ceased using it on GP's even though I haven't found one with the stuff that was corroded yet. Since there are so many cars and so many variables YMMV. I also use wavy washers whenever I see the opportunity to use one even if the factory left them off for what I assume are cost reduction measures.
__________________
'95 E320 Wagon my favorite road car. '99 E300D wolf in sheeps body, '87 300D Sportline suspension, '79 300TD w/ 617.952 engine at 367,750 and counting! |
#19
|
|||
|
|||
I use plenty of blue or medium Loctite and have never had a problem removing a fastener that it was applied to. The blue/medium has just enough bite to keep vibration from backing out a fastener. I use it on my vehicles and hobby stuff and its great. The only thing better is, if applicable, nylock nuts. While I understand the "not from the factory" mentality blue loctite is cheap insurance on an older car with older fasteners, and the host of other maladies that come with older vehicles. Not that I think Loctite is a magic bullet rather that if you find correctly torquing fasteners, using the correct lockwashers, etc. is not working then why not use the Loctite? Certainly better than loosing/breaking engine parts. RT
__________________
When all else fails, vote from the rooftops! 84' Mercedes Benz 300D Anthracite/black, 171K 03' Volkswagen Jetta TDI blue/black, 93K 93' Chevrolet C2500HD ExCab 6.5TD, Two-tone blue, 252K |
#20
|
||||
|
||||
back to the poster of the thread
if you are having trouble holding the bolts on the hb, you may have a problem with the keyways and keys. i hope this is not the case for your sake though as it is a bad problem to have with no good solution that works for sure except often changing the crank.
tom w
__________________
[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC] ..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis. |
#21
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
...I just cringe every time I hear someone say "Loctite", because I've had several infuriating, knuckle-busting experiences trying to remove bolts that someone used the RED stuff on. Mike
__________________
_____ 1979 300 SD 350,000 miles _____ 1982 300D-gone---sold to a buddy _____ 1985 300TD 270,000 miles _____ 1994 E320 not my favorite, but the wife wanted it www.myspace.com/mikemover www.myspace.com/openskystudio www.myspace.com/speedxband www.myspace.com/openskyseparators www.myspace.com/doubledrivemusic |
#22
|
||||
|
||||
I also don't own any of the red, the blue stuff is all I have. Blue holds things just fine, red sounds unpleasant!!
__________________
-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life- '15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800) '17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k) '09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k) '13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k) '01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km) '16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k) |
#23
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
Red has its place.....I just haven't been there. I think the people that use the red (non-mechanics) are of the school of thought "if a little is good then more is better."
__________________
Proud owner of .... 1971 280SE W108 1979 300SD W116 1983 300D W123 1975 Ironhead Sportster chopper 1987 GMC 3/4 ton 4X4 Diesel 1989 Honda Civic (Heavily modified) --------------------- Section 609 MVAC Certified --------------------- "He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you." - Friedrich Nietzsche |
#24
|
||||
|
||||
on further thought
if the bolts that are loostening are not the main hb bolt, then my comments about keyways and bad crank wouldnt apply.
tom w
__________________
[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC] ..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis. |
#25
|
|||
|
|||
Keys and crank are fine. The engine runs great, sounds like I should use the blue locktite whenever I have to replace a fastener.
|
#26
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
__________________
Proud owner of .... 1971 280SE W108 1979 300SD W116 1983 300D W123 1975 Ironhead Sportster chopper 1987 GMC 3/4 ton 4X4 Diesel 1989 Honda Civic (Heavily modified) --------------------- Section 609 MVAC Certified --------------------- "He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you." - Friedrich Nietzsche |
#27
|
|||
|
|||
One more thing that hasn't been mentioned. Never use loctite on any bolt that is close to or holding any plastic pieces. Loctite seriousely hardens many plastics to the point where they fall apart into dust. In my experience, this takes a few months to happen.
|
#28
|
||||
|
||||
Post #4.
Torque Wrenches, calibration, accuracy.
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=143743 I use all types of LocTite, one for almost every job.
__________________
ASE Master Mechanic asemastermechanic@juno.com Prototype R&D/testing: Thermal & Aerodynamic System Engineering (TASE) Senior vehicle instrumentation technician. Noise Vibration and Harshness (NVH). Dynamometer. Heat exchanger durability. HV-A/C Climate Control. Vehicle build. Fleet Durability Technical Quality Auditor. Automotive Technical Writer 1985 300SD 1983 300D 1984 190D 2003 Volvo V70 2002 Honda Civic https://www.boldegoist.com/ |
#29
|
|||
|
|||
Purple- Low- Removable for locking/sealing screws under 1/4" diameter. Removable with hand tools. Applications: Set screws adjustment screws, calibration screws, meters, gauges.
Blue- Medium- Ideal for all nut and bolt applications 1/4" to 3/4" (6mm to 20mm). Disassemble with hand tools. Suggested applications: Valve cover bolts, water pump bolts, oil pan bolts, drive shaft bolts, rocker arm adjustment nuts, carburetor studs. Red- High- Permanent locking/sealing large bolts and studs for fasteners 1" in diameter and larger. Suggested applications: Crankshaft damper bolt, flywheel bolts, adaptor plate bolts, frame bolts, trailer hitch frames, and suspension bolts. Disassembly difficult; heat required. Green- High- Low viscosity threadlocking liquid that wicks along the threads of pre-assembled fasteners to secure them in place. Ideal for fasteners ranging from #2 to 1/2" (2.2 to 12mm) in size. Heating and hand tools needed for disassembly. Suggested applications: Bolts on alternators, air conditioning compressors, distributor clamps, carburetor adjustment screws, and hairline cracks. Orange- High- High strength and high temperature 'anaerobic threadlocking material. The product cures when 'confined in the absence of air between close fitting metal 'surfaces. Suggested applications: Bolts 'used in transmissions, construction equipment or railroad 'assemblies where resistance to heavy shock, vibration and 'stress levels is required along with exposure to elevated 'temperatures. VERY difficult to disassemble, even with heat. NOTE: High Strength Loctite (#271) is red and creates essentially *permanent* bonds. Don't use on anything you ever want to separate again. Last edited by ForcedInduction; 04-01-2006 at 08:44 AM. |
#30
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
Also advised to use a thread sealer on flywheel to crank bolts and the belt tensioner mounting bolt too. .
__________________
[http://languageandgrammar.com/2008/01/14/youve-got-problems-not-issues/ ] "A liberal is someone who feels they owe a great debt to their fellow man, which debt he proposes to pay off with your money." |
Bookmarks |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|