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  #16  
Old 01-10-2006, 11:00 AM
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Maybe someone should post a list of what to Loctite/Antiseize

Flywheel bolts and oil pan bolts crankshaft pulley bolts and engine bolts definitely get loctite, but sometimes you need to go the otherway and use Antiseize.
Sometimes I wonder whether you should be putting loctite on brake caliper bolts or antiseize. Seems like you would want to use loctite, but they usually oxidize in place, and sometimes since I'm always redoing my brakes, i have been tempted to use antiseize....likewise for interior bolts which i use antiseize on since i will revisit them often

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  #17  
Old 01-10-2006, 05:50 PM
Dan Rotigel
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I'd be interested in some links/advice on what to loctite/never seize as well. All bolts in the rear subframe had loctite pre-applied from lemforder (bolts/mounts had the star on them, i can't imagine dealerships stripping the loctite off when the get the parts...). I've seen wheel studs with never seize as well, although I can't think of a bolt on my car (w201 16v) that has a lock washer. Maybe MB took NASA's advice? I've never found this sort of general advice in the service manual; assumed MB taught it in some sort of training course.

cheers,
dan
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  #18  
Old 01-10-2006, 06:15 PM
dieseldiehard's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikemover
PLEASE don't use the permanent lock-tite!!!!

(kut)

The MB engineers never used lock-tite on MB engines. On bolts that needed a little extra insurance, they used lock WASHERS... but never any type chemical thread-locking stuff that I'm aware of.

If they didn't use it at the factory, then you shouldn't need to use it now.

If you have vibrations that are so bad that nuts and bolts are coming loose, then either you're not torquing them properly, or you are installing them without the lock washers that they are supposed to have, or you have some mechanical problems or worn mounts that are causing excessive vibrations.

Mike
My 124 FSM calls for locking material on the big central hex socket bolt that holds the serpentine belt tensioner on to the aluminum front engine cover of the 603 motor. BTW that bugger is a real ***** to get off and I couldn't imagine using heat on it so I used a 2 ft. long extension on the hex wrench. I complied with the note and used blue locktite on the replacement bolt.

And all the brake caliper mounting bolts come from the factory with blue locking material on the threads but I admit I never used locktite when replacing them and none have ever come loose (yet!)

Putting locktite on threaded fasteners that can and will be a problem to someone someday when the parts need to be removed is not something I think about when working on an engine, and I do not use it hardly ever.
I will however add antisieze on just about anything that is subject to water and corrosion or high temps like exhaust studs and turbo bolts. An exception is glow plugs, I read something about the silvery molybdenum disulphide causing electrolysis with aluminum, so I have ceased using it on GP's even though I haven't found one with the stuff that was corroded yet. Since there are so many cars and so many variables YMMV.
I also use wavy washers whenever I see the opportunity to use one even if the factory left them off for what I assume are cost reduction measures.
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  #19  
Old 01-11-2006, 10:16 PM
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I use plenty of blue or medium Loctite and have never had a problem removing a fastener that it was applied to. The blue/medium has just enough bite to keep vibration from backing out a fastener. I use it on my vehicles and hobby stuff and its great. The only thing better is, if applicable, nylock nuts. While I understand the "not from the factory" mentality blue loctite is cheap insurance on an older car with older fasteners, and the host of other maladies that come with older vehicles. Not that I think Loctite is a magic bullet rather that if you find correctly torquing fasteners, using the correct lockwashers, etc. is not working then why not use the Loctite? Certainly better than loosing/breaking engine parts. RT
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  #20  
Old 01-11-2006, 10:38 PM
t walgamuth's Avatar
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back to the poster of the thread

if you are having trouble holding the bolts on the hb, you may have a problem with the keyways and keys. i hope this is not the case for your sake though as it is a bad problem to have with no good solution that works for sure except often changing the crank.

tom w
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  #21  
Old 01-11-2006, 10:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rwthomas1
I use plenty of blue or medium Loctite and have never had a problem removing a fastener that it was applied to. The blue/medium has just enough bite to keep vibration from backing out a fastener. I use it on my vehicles and hobby stuff and its great. The only thing better is, if applicable, nylock nuts. While I understand the "not from the factory" mentality blue loctite is cheap insurance on an older car with older fasteners, and the host of other maladies that come with older vehicles. Not that I think Loctite is a magic bullet rather that if you find correctly torquing fasteners, using the correct lockwashers, etc. is not working then why not use the Loctite? Certainly better than loosing/breaking engine parts. RT
That makes sense... the blue stuff is pretty harmless, for the most part...

...I just cringe every time I hear someone say "Loctite", because I've had several infuriating, knuckle-busting experiences trying to remove bolts that someone used the RED stuff on.

Mike
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  #22  
Old 01-11-2006, 11:42 PM
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I also don't own any of the red, the blue stuff is all I have. Blue holds things just fine, red sounds unpleasant!!
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  #23  
Old 01-12-2006, 07:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikemover
That makes sense... the blue stuff is pretty harmless, for the most part...

...I just cringe every time I hear someone say "Loctite", because I've had several infuriating, knuckle-busting experiences trying to remove bolts that someone used the RED stuff on.

Mike
I don't even use red on my hardtail Harley Chopper.......blue is all I have ever needed to keep things from coming loose, and I've ridden it over 75k miles in the time I have owned it.


Red has its place.....I just haven't been there. I think the people that use the red (non-mechanics) are of the school of thought "if a little is good then more is better."
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  #24  
Old 01-12-2006, 09:04 AM
t walgamuth's Avatar
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on further thought

if the bolts that are loostening are not the main hb bolt, then my comments about keyways and bad crank wouldnt apply.

tom w
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  #25  
Old 01-12-2006, 10:45 AM
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Keys and crank are fine. The engine runs great, sounds like I should use the blue locktite whenever I have to replace a fastener.
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  #26  
Old 01-12-2006, 10:46 AM
boneheaddoctor's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 240diowa
Keys and crank are fine. The engine runs great, sounds like I should use the blue locktite whenever I have to replace a fastener.
and avoid the red or white......
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  #27  
Old 02-11-2006, 01:03 PM
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One more thing that hasn't been mentioned. Never use loctite on any bolt that is close to or holding any plastic pieces. Loctite seriousely hardens many plastics to the point where they fall apart into dust. In my experience, this takes a few months to happen.
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  #28  
Old 02-11-2006, 01:24 PM
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Post #4.

Torque Wrenches, calibration, accuracy.
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=143743

I use all types of LocTite, one for almost every job.
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  #29  
Old 04-01-2006, 08:38 AM
ForcedInduction
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Purple- Low- Removable for locking/sealing screws under 1/4" diameter. Removable with hand tools. Applications: Set screws adjustment screws, calibration screws, meters, gauges.

Blue- Medium- Ideal for all nut and bolt applications 1/4" to 3/4" (6mm to 20mm). Disassemble with hand tools. Suggested applications: Valve cover bolts, water pump bolts, oil pan bolts, drive shaft bolts, rocker arm adjustment nuts, carburetor studs.

Red- High- Permanent locking/sealing large bolts and studs for fasteners 1" in diameter and larger. Suggested applications: Crankshaft damper bolt, flywheel bolts, adaptor plate bolts, frame bolts, trailer hitch frames, and suspension bolts. Disassembly difficult; heat required.

Green- High- Low viscosity threadlocking liquid that wicks along the threads of pre-assembled fasteners to secure them in place. Ideal for fasteners ranging from #2 to 1/2" (2.2 to 12mm) in size. Heating and hand tools needed for disassembly. Suggested applications: Bolts on alternators, air conditioning compressors, distributor clamps, carburetor adjustment screws, and hairline cracks.

Orange- High- High strength and high temperature 'anaerobic threadlocking material. The product cures when 'confined in the absence of air between close fitting metal 'surfaces. Suggested applications: Bolts 'used in transmissions, construction equipment or railroad 'assemblies where resistance to heavy shock, vibration and 'stress levels is required along with exposure to elevated 'temperatures. VERY difficult to disassemble, even with heat.

NOTE: High Strength Loctite (#271) is red and creates essentially *permanent* bonds. Don't use on anything you ever want to separate again.

Last edited by ForcedInduction; 04-01-2006 at 08:44 AM.
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  #30  
Old 04-02-2006, 01:46 PM
dkveuro's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikemover
..............................................
The MB engineers never used lock-tite on MB engines. On bolts that needed a little extra insurance, they used lock WASHERS... but never any type chemical thread-locking stuff that I'm aware of. ............................
Mike
Mike...They use a blue sealer on all the caliper mounting bolts...12.9 grade bolts. You also get new bolts in caliper kits with this blue stuff on the threads.

Also advised to use a thread sealer on flywheel to crank bolts and the belt tensioner mounting bolt too.
.

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