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  #1  
Old 01-08-2006, 10:06 PM
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Marine place to flush/filter my tank?, 1982 300D

1982 300D

Hi, guys.

Well, I just spent the weekend draining my tank, replacing the tank screen, and replacing all my fuel filters. I put some Soltron (similar to Startron/Starbright I believe) in the tank and filled it with 5 gallons of B20. I have previously used Biobor.

I took it for a spin, and after about 5 minutes I started stalling, again. I checked the pre-filter when I got home, and it was full of the same black fungus as before I drained the tank and added the enzymes.

So, now that I've been through this headache too long (past 3-4 months), I'm ready to try having the tank steamed or super filtered. My question then is, can I take the car to a marine repair shop and have them run one of those filtering flush machines mentioned on other threads, or should I have it taken somewhere and have it steamed? Also, I don't want to have to remove the tank, as I have a Frybrid 22 gallon tank bolted down in front of it, making removal and reinstallation a real hassle. I'd prefer if they could work through the sending unit hole or through the filler hole so I can leave the tank in place. Is this possible?

Any ideas on cost?

I'm still hanging in there with this car...

Pete.

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  #2  
Old 01-08-2006, 10:15 PM
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Thats the alternative to dealing with frequent filter changes until the recently killed fungus clears your system................however you could have a radiator shop do it for less than a boat (read $$$$$$$$$) shop would charge.
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  #3  
Old 01-08-2006, 10:20 PM
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If you disconnect all the fittings and sending unit and drain the fuel, you'd have to tow the vehicle around.

You may find someone to steam it and wash it out but I see the main problem is getting all the water out of the tank while it remains in the vehicle.

Your access and visibility are not all that great. Not impossible, but, risky. If you do it, you might want to hook up a little pump and pump five gallons of fuel from the tank into a bucket and toss it out (or let it settle out). Then, the risk of water is lessened to a great degree.
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Old 01-08-2006, 10:22 PM
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Will you be removing the tank or leaving it in?
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Proud owner of ....
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1979 300SD W116
1983 300D W123
1975 Ironhead Sportster chopper
1987 GMC 3/4 ton 4X4 Diesel
1989 Honda Civic (Heavily modified)
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  #5  
Old 01-08-2006, 10:40 PM
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I want to leave it in. As I mentioned above, I have a 22-gallon Frybrid tank in front of the original tank, and don't want to have to mess with taking it out and reinstalling it (much more of a hasle then the original tank).

Also, after I drain the tank again, I'll have 10 gallons of fuel that has this dead fungus in it. Anyway to filter this so I can use it again? If not, where can I properly dispose?

One other thing...is there an in-line filter that can filter small enough to stop particles from getting into the engine and stalling it, but doesn't fillter so small that it starves the car for fuel...therefore stalling it again? Would like to use something like that until I figure out what I'm going to do about cleaning out the tank.

BHD, how would they clean it out at the radiator shop, and leave it so there wasn't water in it? Can I drive it there with fuel, and let them drain it out?

...which brings up one more item....the engine only seems to let the clogging stall it if the tank is down to 1/4 of a tank or less. At first I thought the problem was the lift-pump (which I replaced) until I saw the fungus.

Thanks,

Pete.
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  #6  
Old 01-08-2006, 11:27 PM
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the fungicide

in my experience will kill the fungus and allow it to pass through the filter. i would treat it again. maybe try another brand. i have not had to do more, personally. you have a bad case, obviously. also you could put a generic electric fuel pump on the fuel line and run it through a big truck filter for a few days or so too. maybe you can find a cleanable filter.

tom w
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  #7  
Old 01-08-2006, 11:33 PM
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Pete , I used everything on the fungus / algae and ujntil I got the Startron Diesel Additive nothing got rid of it.
Before I went through the hassle and expense of tank cleaning I would spend $7.00 and get a small bottle of it and but a couple of extra filters. Mine cleared up in a few days.
They also make a tank cleaner that Pmari swears by.

http://www.starbrite.com/productdetail.cfm?ID=1166&ProductCat=Marine&ProductSCat=Gas%20and%20Diesel%20Additives&ProductSSCat=Startron%20Tank%20Cleaner

btw could your fungi be coming from your frybrid tank????
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  #8  
Old 01-09-2006, 01:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Austin85
Pete , I used everything on the fungus / algae and ujntil I got the Startron Diesel Additive nothing got rid of it.
Before I went through the hassle and expense of tank cleaning I would spend $7.00 and get a small bottle of it and but a couple of extra filters. Mine cleared up in a few days.
They also make a tank cleaner that Pmari swears by.

http://www.starbrite.com/productdetail.cfm?ID=1166&ProductCat=Marine&ProductSCat=Gas%20and%20Diesel%20Additives&ProductSSCat=Startron%20Tank%20Cleaner

btw could your fungi be coming from your frybrid tank????
Thanks, Austin85. I thought that Soltron (the stuff I used) was the same stuff, but I'll give it a try.

No, not from the Frybrid tank. I put a prefilter before the feeds from both tanks that both go into a 3-way valve. The prefilter between the original tank feed and the valve fills up with crud, the prefilter between the Frybrid tank feed and the valve stays clean.
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  #9  
Old 01-09-2006, 01:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Austin85
Pete , I used everything on the fungus / algae and ujntil I got the Startron Diesel Additive nothing got rid of it.
Before I went through the hassle and expense of tank cleaning I would spend $7.00 and get a small bottle of it and but a couple of extra filters. Mine cleared up in a few days.
They also make a tank cleaner that Pmari swears by.

http://www.starbrite.com/productdetail.cfm?ID=1166&ProductCat=Marine&ProductSCat=Gas%20and%20Diesel%20Additives&ProductSSCat=Startron%20Tank%20Cleaner

btw could your fungi be coming from your frybrid tank????
Okay, I've been able to find the Starbrite Startron diesel fuel treatment, but not the Starbrite Startron diesel tank cleaner. Is there a difference between the two in terms of getting rid of the crud? Anyone know an online source for the Starbrite tank cleaner?
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Last edited by 300DPETE; 01-09-2006 at 01:33 AM.
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  #10  
Old 01-09-2006, 05:54 AM
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Check the fuel strainer on your fuel tank. I had the same problem and when I changed the fuel strainer it was almost blocked with hard, black crud. When the fuel level was low, the effects of gravity were no longer helping to get the fuel through the clogged strainer. BTW, you still need to flush your tank to get rid of the algae. You have a severe case and additives will kill it but it will clog your filters for some time before its gone.
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  #11  
Old 01-09-2006, 08:09 AM
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I don't think there is a big difference between the 2 products. You do have to let the product sit in the tank for at least 12 hours. (the longer, the better)

You can kill the active bugs right away, but they leave behind their biofilm mats that they use to interface the water/hydrocarbon boundry.

The enzyme in the product claims to lyse the biofilm and break down into micrscopic particles. This will take some time depending on the amount of slime that's in the tank.
You may have to run a few tankfuls?
BTW http://www.theconsumerlink.com/ValvTect/detail/TCL+BGDS16/14 claims to brake up the left overs also.
Both products available at west marine.
I use them together at the same time.

You're other choice is to do an external filtering.
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Last edited by pmari; 01-09-2006 at 09:13 AM.
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  #12  
Old 01-09-2006, 08:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 300DPETE
I want to leave it in. As I mentioned above, I have a 22-gallon Frybrid tank in front of the original tank, and don't want to have to mess with taking it out and reinstalling it (much more of a hasle then the original tank).

Also, after I drain the tank again, I'll have 10 gallons of fuel that has this dead fungus in it. Anyway to filter this so I can use it again? If not, where can I properly dispose?

One other thing...is there an in-line filter that can filter small enough to stop particles from getting into the engine and stalling it, but doesn't fillter so small that it starves the car for fuel...therefore stalling it again? Would like to use something like that until I figure out what I'm going to do about cleaning out the tank.

BHD, how would they clean it out at the radiator shop, and leave it so there wasn't water in it? Can I drive it there with fuel, and let them drain it out?

...which brings up one more item....the engine only seems to let the clogging stall it if the tank is down to 1/4 of a tank or less. At first I thought the problem was the lift-pump (which I replaced) until I saw the fungus.

Thanks,

Pete.
You would have to have it out of the car and the fuel drained for the radiator shop to do anything.....Like was mentioned I have a concern about steam cleaning it in place as it would be difficult to get out all the crud. I can understand your plight but would ask you to reconsider pulling the tank to do it right if the prospect of frequent filter changes is a problem for you.
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Proud owner of ....
1971 280SE W108
1979 300SD W116
1983 300D W123
1975 Ironhead Sportster chopper
1987 GMC 3/4 ton 4X4 Diesel
1989 Honda Civic (Heavily modified)
---------------------
Section 609 MVAC Certified
---------------------
"He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you." - Friedrich Nietzsche
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  #13  
Old 01-09-2006, 09:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ockman
Check the fuel strainer on your fuel tank. I had the same problem and when I changed the fuel strainer it was almost blocked with hard, black crud. When the fuel level was low, the effects of gravity were no longer helping to get the fuel through the clogged strainer. BTW, you still need to flush your tank to get rid of the algae. You have a severe case and additives will kill it but it will clog your filters for some time before its gone.
As I said, I drained the tank and replaced the fuel strainer. Doesn't seem to help the low-fuel stalling syndrome (along with the crud still showing up in the prefitlers).
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  #14  
Old 01-09-2006, 09:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by t walgamuth
in my experience will kill the fungus and allow it to pass through the filter. i would treat it again. maybe try another brand. i have not had to do more, personally. you have a bad case, obviously. also you could put a generic electric fuel pump on the fuel line and run it through a big truck filter for a few days or so too. maybe you can find a cleanable filter.

tom w
How would this work....would I circulate it in a loop somehow? How would I hook up such a filter inline (i.e., one that has a fitting like a garden hose!). Dumb question....what's a truck filter?

Pete.
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  #15  
Old 01-09-2006, 10:01 AM
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External filtering is done by some marine services, you could call around. Otherwise tapping into one of your fuel lines and putting a fuel pump on it and running through a filter, (northern tool and Mcmaster Carr carry them. Locally I'd try a hydroilic service shop) then return it back to the tank. You'll get a more complete filtering by sending all the fuel to a jug(s), and fully filtering the whole volume in the tank, then back into the car's tank for another go around(or so).

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The Sound of Diesel Speed
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