Wood refinishing project... - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Hatterasguy · #1 01-12-2006, 06:26 PM

Ok I finally managed to strip the finish off my test center console wood. The finish is amazinly thick but the Zebrawood veneer is very thin. No stripper I tested would touch it, I needed to use a heat gun. However I was disapointed with the wood after I got the finish off. It was very light and had lots of deep grain. The veneer is so thin you can't really sand it or you will punch through. It also didn't take the stain I tried on it well. I don't know what kind of finish MB used but judging from the way it popped with the heat gun some sort of poly, it is also very dark. The actually Zebrawood under it is real light.

Since I am very picky and want my wood to be perfect refinishing the old wood is out of the queston, the finish just won't be up to my standards. So I started to think of options because I really don't want to live with white cracked wood for another few years until I can afford to buy new stuff. I think I found a solution!

You can purchase wood veneers pretty cheap and if your stripped the old finish off you can glue a new veneer on without much trouble. Thats all MB did really. The ash tray and door panals would be the hardest to get looking perfect but I think it could be done. I am also not in love with the Zebra wood MB used, I really would like something darker I think Carpathian Burl, or Bloodwood would look good. Maybe with a regular varnish on it, sprayed with a spray gun for a perfect deep glass like finish.

Of course it keeping the dust out of it will be the hardest.
http://www.oakwoodveneer.com/samples/samples3.html

What do you guys think would look good? I can get a 4x8 sheet pretty cheap I think I could do a wood makeover for under $200. My interior is black so I think a darker wood like the 560's had would look pretty good.

davestlouis · #2 01-12-2006, 09:48 PM

Your timing is amazing...I just took the center console piece out of the temporarily dead 240D and brought it home tonight to strip the peeling poly off of it. My only concern with laying a new veneer over it is cutting the openings for the switches. I'm going to try to save the zebrano veneer because I really don't relish changing all the wood in the car.

Phil · #3 01-12-2006, 10:12 PM

I always thought it would be fun to do this with purpleheart. I have some nice 3/8" pieces that I've wanted to make something out of and with a clear finish on it it's really outragious.

TheDon · #4 01-12-2006, 10:21 PM

dude why dont you give some soy based remover.. i found thiss tuff at the international builders show yesturday .. its called Soy-Gel.. its soybean based non toxic... www.franmar.com it works really great.. im not selling it i just like it because its soy based.. .and i also found a vendor that sells soy based insualtion foam... woot getting away from that itchy pink panther stuff

boneheaddoctor · #5 01-12-2006, 10:47 PM

One of these days I am going to give it a shot......but I haven't been able to find the spare time I know I need to do it.

t walgamuth · #6 01-12-2006, 11:28 PM

how mb gets that wood veneer to follow those double curves like that. they must slice it so thin and then steam it over them, perhaps. i would think that doing it yourself with veneer bought at a lumber yard would be very tough.

i wish you luck though.

tom w

boneheaddoctor · #7 01-13-2006, 08:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by davestlouis

Your timing is amazing...I just took the center console piece out of the temporarily dead 240D and brought it home tonight to strip the peeling poly off of it. My only concern with laying a new veneer over it is cutting the openings for the switches. I'm going to try to save the zebrano veneer because I really don't relish changing all the wood in the car.

lamnate cutter or one of the side cutting bits in a dremmel......single edge razor will get clean corners...

Pete Burton · #8 01-13-2006, 08:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hatterasguy

Ok I finally managed to strip the finish off my test center console wood. The finish is amazinly thick but the Zebrawood veneer is very thin. No stripper I tested would touch it, I needed to use a heat gun. However I was disapointed with the wood after I got the finish off. It was very light and had lots of deep grain. The veneer is so thin you can't really sand it or you will punch through. It also didn't take the stain I tried on it well. I don't know what kind of finish MB used but judging from the way it popped with the heat gun some sort of poly, it is also very dark. The actually Zebrawood under it is real light.

Since I am very picky and want my wood to be perfect refinishing the old wood is out of the queston, the finish just won't be up to my standards. So I started to think of options because I really don't want to live with white cracked wood for another few years until I can afford to buy new stuff. I think I found a solution!

You can purchase wood veneers pretty cheap and if your stripped the old finish off you can glue a new veneer on without much trouble. Thats all MB did really. The ash tray and door panals would be the hardest to get looking perfect but I think it could be done. I am also not in love with the Zebra wood MB used, I really would like something darker I think Carpathian Burl, or Bloodwood would look good. Maybe with a regular varnish on it, sprayed with a spray gun for a perfect deep glass like finish.

Of course it keeping the dust out of it will be the hardest.
http://www.oakwoodveneer.com/samples/samples3.html

What do you guys think would look good? I can get a 4x8 sheet pretty cheap I think I could do a wood makeover for under $200. My interior is black so I think a darker wood like the 560's had would look pretty good.

Chris, do a search around a couple other boards here. I think it was on the detailing forum I saw someone doing this stuff with the wood veneers. Seemed like he was pretty into it, and posted some pictures of some truly wild looking veneers.

Ra_ · #9 01-13-2006, 09:59 AM

I think that was me?

I agree, the Zebrano is not impressive.

The best bet might be to go with a Black Walnut Burl.
It's beautiful. It's dark.
and it matches the 'good' veneer that MB used in some cars.

Hatterasguy · #10 01-13-2006, 11:13 AM

The Walnut Burl is impressive and is in the running, I was just thinking if I am going to do it I may want to use something MB didn't offer. I would like a pretty dark wood, but with an amazing grain. I don't like the finish MB used either it reminds me of Cetol, I want to put a clear finish over it to let the wood show through.

TheDon I have used those strippers before, they work but are slow, If you are not in a rush they work fine but when you are working on the clock they don't cut it. A heat gun seems to be the best way to remove this stuff.

Lucky veneer is very thin and flexable along the grain. I think the hardest parts would be around the door handles. The dash would actually be pretty simple.

I would start by stripping the finish then make some oak tag patterns. Then I'd lay the papar patterns on the 4x8 sheet of veneer. Of course I would have to match the grain on the dash, and this wouldn't be to hard. I could probably cut it out with a dremal. Lay the new veneer over the wood and clamp and glue it down. After it dries then do a final trim. After that it is just a matter of coating it, I'd like to use varnish, probably 10-15 coats. They would have to be sprayed on and sanded with 320 in between. To get the glass smooth finish you need to spray in a dust free area with a spray gun.

Lots of work but if I do a little at a time I think I could knock it out in a few months. Lucky for me know someone who does this proffessionaly and he has all the tools.

I will investigate further today...

boneheaddoctor · #11 01-13-2006, 01:40 PM

I think they (the pro's) vacuum bag the tiem when applying veneers....as it applies pressure very evenly across the item....

Thats what I saw done on TV anyway.

bbeardb · #12 01-13-2006, 02:30 PM

You could try KTM-9. It's waterbased, looks like a lacquer, and you can brush it on. Put a few coats on and buff it out, it should look good. The wood will darken when finished as well.

stayalert · #13 01-13-2006, 03:41 PM

I'm not in a position to refo the wood on my car but all this talk of wood working has me wondering how a nicely done maple or ash would look....I thik the nicely stright grain ash would ,ook good on the narrow parts...Our maybe some curley maple????? just wondering....

leathermang · #14 01-13-2006, 03:47 PM

It is amazing how much wood will bend if steamed properly..

I just found that Harbor Freight has their 14 inch bandsaw on sale... $260 when usually $320... I just went and got one..

Here is a good info site about tuning it up...

http://drusshop.com/shop/bandsaw.php

bbeardb · #15 01-13-2006, 03:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by leathermang

It is amazing how much wood will bend if steamed properly..

I just found that Harbor Freight has their 14 inch bandsaw on sale... $260 when usually $320... I just went and got one..

Here is a good info site about tuning it up...

http://drusshop.com/shop/bandsaw.php

Or just use a hot pipe. No water necessary.

I wonder if you can put riser blocks on saw that to get a bigger resaw capacity.