Euro headlight vacuum switch - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

thorsen · #1 01-17-2006, 06:47 PM

Has anyone come up with an alternative to the factory switch to adjust the headlight aiming of the Euro headlights? I picked up a set and would like to use the vacuum adjust feature, but have come up with nothing on the adjuster switch.

Any ideas?

boneheaddoctor · #2 01-17-2006, 07:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by thorsen

Has anyone come up with an alternative to the factory switch to adjust the headlight aiming of the Euro headlights? I picked up a set and would like to use the vacuum adjust feature, but have come up with nothing on the adjuster switch.

Any ideas?

nope...is a variable vacuum bleed thing.....not hard to find really. I have one but will keep it in case I come across a set of vacuum elements for the eurolights mine are missing...

Hit Man X · #3 01-17-2006, 07:41 PM

I agree with Bonehead, I'd hold out and find the OE stuff. I have one set in a box and another I need to go pick up soon!

rgp123 · #4 01-17-2006, 09:40 PM

if that is what you need, or are you just looking for an alternative?

RP

#5 01-17-2006, 10:21 PM

I have both a switch and the eurolamps!!!

I just need to run the tube

boneheaddoctor · #6 01-17-2006, 10:27 PM

Just an FYI....not all Euro lights have vacuum adjustment elements in them...even if they have the fittings for the vacuum lines, you have to look carefully inside them.

#7 01-17-2006, 10:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by boneheaddoctor

Just an FYI....not all Euro lights have vacuum adjustment elements in them...even if they have the fittings for the vacuum lines, you have to look carefully inside them.

You cane be sure my set has them...

I made sure before I got them...otherwise I already had E code lights in my US housings...worked exactly the same...just didn't look quite as cool.

locry · #8 01-17-2006, 10:51 PM

interesting,

I have a euro spec 124 300D, i have the switch and the headlight elements, i just don't know how to route the vac tubes... anybody have a diagram or something? thanks guys

Hit Man X · #9 01-17-2006, 11:06 PM

Just run a vac line from the motor for constant supply. Hit that one to the switch. Then the other outlet on the switch to a Y connector to each light. Very simple.

MarkM · #10 01-17-2006, 11:14 PM

Hit Man's system wont work...the way he described it (unless I'm missing something), you have no way to adjust the lights to a specific setting...when the switch is on the lights would go all the way up and stay there. And when you flip the switch off, the lights would go back down. If you raised the lights slightly to a specific desired position, then turned off the switch, the lights wont hold...they would just go down. However, as he said, it is quite simple to set this up in a manner that allows precise adjustment to any position...you use a second vac. switch rigged to act as a check valve holding vacuum when not energized, but then bleed vacuum (lower lights) when energized. I have the vacuum euro lights and I rigged up this system that allows me to adjust lights up to any position and back down....

You use two of the standard MBZ 3-way vacuum switches in conjunction with a regular window switch to control the system. Run hard vac. lines from each light and connect to a single line with a "t". Run the single line to the vac. switches located on the drivers side wheel hump under the hood. You run another hard vac. line (vac. source) from the switches to a "t" off main vacuum source near brake booster.

You hook up the vacuum switches so that when you push the window switch in one direction (up), it activates one of the switches allowing vacuum into the system (raising lights). When you push the other way (down), the other vac. switch activates bleeding vacuum and lowering the headlights. Y

I located the window switch on the center console where I removed the radio fader (I put in a better radio, amp in rear, new speakers, etc. and completely bypassed all original radio components so I got rid of the useless fader). Use of the window switch is great because it is momentary up, momentary down. You can also use a two way "momentary on" toggle switch, but I like the window switch because everything looks OE and you dont have to cut or drill.

The vacuum switches draw very little current, so you can tap into any hot wire for power...since I located the window switch on the center console, I ran wires through firewall via the rubber "cow udder" below the brake booster, across to the center console, and down by the ash tray where I connected to cigar lighter for power, then back to the switch...obviously you need to run two hot wires from your power source, to the window switch (one to up, one to down) then back to the engine compartment where you connect one hot wire to each of the vac switches (then wires to chassis ground).

This system works like a charm...it takes about 3 to 4 seconds to raise the headlights to highest position (increase vacuum), and a little less time to lower (bleed vacuum). I originally contemplated incorporating some of those little vacuum orifices thinking that I may want to slow the system response to make the adjustment a little more precise, but the system works really nice without. (However, now that I am thinking more about it, I will try an orifice on the bleeding outlet to slow down the lowering.)

Note....you must use good vac. switches that will hold vacuum or block it. Otherwise, you may find that the lights slowly raise (vac. leaking in) or slowly lower (vac. leaking out). When I first installed my system, I would raise the headlights only to have them slowly lower over time as vacuum leaked from the system. But when I replaced the vacuum switch with a better one, the system held tight....I can drive for hours with with lights raised and they don't budge. And it has work great for over 5 years without any replacements or tinkering.

FYI, the original intent of the adjustable lights were to actually lower the lights when carrying heavy cargo in the rear, and the car is tilted up, as well as tilt up when appropriate. The way I set mine, contrary to the original design, was such that when no vacuum is in the system (lights lowered to the lowest) the headlights are adjusted to normal position. I use the system only to slightly tilt up when I want...low beams slightly up for a long highway drive with little traffic, or driving on dark roads, or tilt high beams slightly up for early morning dark drive on dirt roads in the woods.

The original vacuum controller was such that when you set the slider switch in the middle, the headlights would be set for proper normal driving setting. With the system I rigged up, you could set normal position in middle of range, but you would have to eyeball light to normal position by watching position of the beams. That said, I actually like the way I set it up because I never really want to lower the beams (especially due to self leveling system in my wagon). Regardless, headlights on almost 100 percent of cars are fixed and cant be lowered..and I'm fine with that. But I really like the option of a slight tilt upwards (or more) in either high or low beams, and my system works real sweet for that!

If you want a detailed diagram or photo of the vac. layout at the vac. switches, I will send later.

Good Luck,

Mark

softconsult · #11 01-18-2006, 08:19 AM

Mark M doesn't understand the type of vacuum control used with the Euro Lights. The rotary control is actually a vacuum bleed.
You need a constant vacuum source. Then picture the circuit as a racetrack with the vacuum motors attached. More vacuum equals raising the lights. Less equals lowering the lights. The rotary wheel controls the vacuum level by bleeding off vacuum. Works great.

When I bought mine the supplier provided the vacuum lines, the switch, and rubber multiport joint in order to easily connect to the vacuum system just behind the brake booster in the 300E. Don't know about the 300D.

Steve

#12 01-18-2006, 09:01 AM

I can't remember if I have used the one from my Euro parts car or not. I will try to remember to check today and see if it is still in there. If it is I will have to have a pretty decent price plus shipping for it.

Have a great day,

Rick Miley · #13 01-18-2006, 09:15 AM

Euro parts are not hard to get. Just call Phil and tell him what you need.

softconsult · #14 01-18-2006, 11:13 AM

I went back and read Mark M's post. He obviously does understand the vacuum system. He simply took a simple system, the rotary vacuum bleed system that is standard Euro setup, and made himself a more complicated system that does the same thing as the factory system.

I have mine setup the same as his relative to height preference. Lowest setting is normal and then I can raise the lights more when needed for more illumination down the road.

Steve

lietuviai · #15 01-18-2006, 11:15 AM

The switch is only for lowering the lights. I have a working one on my 230CE. I don't really see any use for it unless you're carrying a heavy load in the trunk or towing something.