1 full turn is a MASSIVE change.

I would warm the engine up and re-adjust the rack damper just to the point that it stops the idle shaking. Its so sensitive (to get it right) that you are looking at fractions of a turn...

I just think if you adjust it cold, you might end up throwing it way out of spec. and getting a nasty shake when warm. Just adjust warm and then see what it does next time you guys get some cold.

That's what I did, drove around for about 20min then adjusted. I was amazed how overly tight that bolt was in the IP. I turned and turned and turned until the motor began to shake more than normal.

Slowly I threaded it back in to where it just changed the idle... then tightened that lock nut back down.

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I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look.

'85 300SD 245k
'87 300SDL 251k
'90 300SEL 326k

Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford.

Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.[/IMG]

the old bolts did not have the ability to hold the rack like the new bolt does. It has a heavier spring. Once again.....make this adjustment when the engine is HOT

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Ron
2015 Porsche Cayman - Elizabeth
2011 Porsche Cayman - Bond,James Bond
Sadly MERCEDESLESS - ALways LOOKING !
99 E320 THE Queen Mary - SOLD
62 220b - Dolly - Finally my Finny! Sadly SOLD
72 450SL, Pearl-SOLD
16 F350 6.7 Diesel -THOR
19 BMW X5 - Heaven on Wheels
14 38HP John Deere 3038E Tractor -Mean Green
84 300SD, Benjamin -SOLD
71 220 - W115-Libby ( my first love) -SOLD
73 280 - W114 "Organspende" Rest in Peace
81 380 SL - Rest in Peace

Check out this tutorial and bookmark this site:

http://engine.articles.mbz.org/diesel/rackbolt/

You can bookmark this site too:

http://diymbrepair.com/

Danny

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1984 300SD Turbo Diesel 150,000 miles

OBK member #23

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