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  #1  
Old 01-25-2006, 04:38 PM
BenzDieselTuner's Avatar
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i want to rebuild my Vacuum Pump Tommorrow.....

and so far i havent been able to find any infos on the search functions on the various sites that would tell me what i need to know, and that is:

1985 300 CDT

1. do you really need to take the pump off to attempt this?

2. why do the directions that came with my kit (from GermanStar) look like they may be not showing the same pump? (i have the pump/kit with the 3 little plastic/metal diaphragm thingy's)

3. do you REALLY need to take the pump off the motor to do this kit?

4. any nasty things gonna creep up, that would end with my car sitting disabled, and my pump still not fixed?

5. what am i going to mess up? will the pump never work again?

6. what about cleaning the insides/degreasing?

7. what about the "check valves" mentioned? i didnt get anything like those with my kit, am i going to need them?

8. i removed the line today, to check this "valve", its the thigy that the line connector screws onto, right? i pushed at it downwards, and it opens and pops shut really easily....

thanks you very much for this much needed advice, i have been putting this off for weeks..........driving deliveries around with no brake booster, and having to manually downshift, so i dont get the "clunk", and of course, i always have to use the shut-off lever.......which sucks.....

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I believe in extreme automotive perfection whenever possible.......there is no such thing as "It doesn't matter" !!!

1985 300 CDT - 287k miles

1980 240 D - 340k miles

With extras !!

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  #2  
Old 01-25-2006, 04:59 PM
Larry Delor's Avatar
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You didn't get checkvalves with the kit??
Besides 3 checkvalves a funny looking o-ring and something that looks like a fat rubber band there shouldn't be any other parts. Did you maybe get a rebuild kit for the older style? The older style you can do quite easily.
The newer style is a Pain. The pump does need to come off. To do this, you have to take off whatever is in the way. It's best to remove the fanblade and shroud, along with the P/S pump. Make sure the bolts are nice and clean so you can get a good bite on the bolts with your hex tool. Once it's out, it's pretty straight forward to rebuild. (unless you only plan on changing out the checkvalves ...then you might be able to skip removing the whole pump - it's up to you).

Might want to compare the part number on the kit, with what fastlane gives you when you do a part number search.
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  #3  
Old 01-25-2006, 05:04 PM
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Thumbs up Answer

Rebuilding the Vacuum Pump on the 617 Engine
http://diymbrepair.com/easley/Rebuild_vac_pump.htm

1982-240D-Vacuum System
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=105201

Vacuum pump lesson learned
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?p=872760#post872760

Vacuum Pump Gasket Sealer & Torque
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=138153
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  #4  
Old 01-25-2006, 11:09 PM
BenzDieselTuner's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry Delor
You didn't get checkvalves with the kit??
Besides 3 checkvalves a funny looking o-ring and something that looks like a fat rubber band there shouldn't be any other parts. Did you maybe get a rebuild kit for the older style? The older style you can do quite easily.
The newer style is a Pain. The pump does need to come off. To do this, you have to take off whatever is in the way. It's best to remove the fanblade and shroud, along with the P/S pump. Make sure the bolts are nice and clean so you can get a good bite on the bolts with your hex tool. Once it's out, it's pretty straight forward to rebuild. (unless you only plan on changing out the checkvalves ...then you might be able to skip removing the whole pump - it's up to you).

Might want to compare the part number on the kit, with what fastlane gives you when you do a part number search.
my part number matches

well, i guess thats what those 3 things are, check valves.......

after what i have read so far, i was under the impression that they were "diaphragms"......

so, i wasnt supposed to get a new "membrane/diaphragm" thingy?

i have everything here, it looks just like the photos in other posts on this forum....

so, would it be worth attemting only changing the checkvalves?

and why removing fan/shroud? is it because u have to pull the pump so far forwards so it gets out of the block, and clears? so far, i thought i'd get away only pushing down the PS pump, and removing the top radiator hose....
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-Justin

I believe in extreme automotive perfection whenever possible.......there is no such thing as "It doesn't matter" !!!

1985 300 CDT - 287k miles

1980 240 D - 340k miles

With extras !!

http://facebook.com/BenzDieselTuner

http://facebook.com/SWFLAlternativeFuelsClub

http://facebook.com/SWFLBenzClub

http://SWFLBenzClub.com

Last edited by BenzDieselTuner; 01-25-2006 at 11:15 PM.
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  #5  
Old 01-25-2006, 11:14 PM
BenzDieselTuner's Avatar
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oh yeah, and am i really missing the essential gasket, going between the pump, and block?

dammit, if thats so, i can forget doing this this week at all.........
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-Justin

I believe in extreme automotive perfection whenever possible.......there is no such thing as "It doesn't matter" !!!

1985 300 CDT - 287k miles

1980 240 D - 340k miles

With extras !!

http://facebook.com/BenzDieselTuner

http://facebook.com/SWFLAlternativeFuelsClub

http://facebook.com/SWFLBenzClub

http://SWFLBenzClub.com
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  #6  
Old 01-26-2006, 09:00 AM
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That first link WHunter posted says it all. You really want to make that board. It will make it so much easier. When you get your new gasket you can use that as a template to drill your holes.

Other than that it's a fairly easy job. Make sure you clean everything especially the gasket mating surfaces.

Danny
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  #7  
Old 01-26-2006, 01:19 PM
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will brake cleaner suffice to clean the parts up?

i take it that this gasket has holes in it then......

well, this setlles it, i will not be able to do this today.....

i should call up GermanStar and say "what the hell", since u'd think that what with me buying new glowplugs, and caliper kits, and this kit, that they would'v just sent me a gasket along.......so i can do the job......
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-Justin

I believe in extreme automotive perfection whenever possible.......there is no such thing as "It doesn't matter" !!!

1985 300 CDT - 287k miles

1980 240 D - 340k miles

With extras !!

http://facebook.com/BenzDieselTuner

http://facebook.com/SWFLAlternativeFuelsClub

http://facebook.com/SWFLBenzClub

http://SWFLBenzClub.com
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  #8  
Old 01-26-2006, 03:42 PM
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Quote:
will brake cleaner suffice to clean the parts up?
yeah on the pump. Don't spray it into the engin block. Spray it on a rag then clean. A good scraper will come in handy depending on how much material is stuck on.

Quote:
i should call up GermanStar and say "what the hell", since u'd think that what with me buying new glowplugs, and caliper kits, and this kit, that they would'v just sent me a gasket along.......so i can do the job......
You would think. Should have called Phil.

Danny
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  #9  
Old 01-26-2006, 09:57 PM
Larry Delor's Avatar
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The large circular gasket with all the holes in it (between pump body and block) is not included with a rebuild kit. Either get a gasket, or make sure you put it back nice and even - use a torque wrench. (there isn't a gasket on there now)

Odds are that you just need new checkvalves....BUT... you never know for sure. I suppose you could replace those first, and if it still doesn't produce vacuum, go back at it, and take the whole thing off.
Removing the fanblade gives you room to work.
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  #10  
Old 01-31-2006, 04:21 PM
BenzDieselTuner's Avatar
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i located a gasket in town for only 2.50...!

so, now i probably am going to do this job, before i fly over to Germany for a month, on Monday.....i have off between now and then....

yeah, i think i will just pop the front cover off, and replace the valves first, because yesterday, as a matter of fact, on the way to the place i got the gasket, it kicked in a bit, and for a few stops i had powered brakes, etc.......but then she "fluctuated" (i could notice how my acceleration throttle response surged), and then quit all the way, and hasnt worked a bit since....

so, i'm gonna take off the cover, and change those 3 pieces.....thats it right? its thats simple, if thats how its gonna end up being fixed? open it, replace the 3, and close it up, using a new gasket for the cover?
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-Justin

I believe in extreme automotive perfection whenever possible.......there is no such thing as "It doesn't matter" !!!

1985 300 CDT - 287k miles

1980 240 D - 340k miles

With extras !!

http://facebook.com/BenzDieselTuner

http://facebook.com/SWFLAlternativeFuelsClub

http://facebook.com/SWFLBenzClub

http://SWFLBenzClub.com
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  #11  
Old 01-31-2006, 05:37 PM
Larry Delor's Avatar
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Be sure and look closely as to how the valves are oriented!!!
They may want to fall out when you take off the cover.
If I remember correctly, one valve faces one way, and the other two face the other way.
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  #12  
Old 01-31-2006, 06:27 PM
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The pump is easy to rebuild. Dont get in a hurry. Unless one of the "hard" parts inside the pump are damaged, then you should not worry.

Make sure the gasket surface on the block, where the pumps mounts is very clean. That is a very common place for oil leaks. Just ask me how I know why.
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  #13  
Old 01-31-2006, 10:45 PM
BenzDieselTuner's Avatar
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cool! i was wondering when u would re-appear......i "missed" you.......

i love your Dieselgiant site!

anyways, thats what i'm gonna do, change the little valves, and then if it doesnt work right away, i
ll remove the whole pump, and take her apart, and fix it, on the board i will make, using the new gasket as template....
__________________
-Justin

I believe in extreme automotive perfection whenever possible.......there is no such thing as "It doesn't matter" !!!

1985 300 CDT - 287k miles

1980 240 D - 340k miles

With extras !!

http://facebook.com/BenzDieselTuner

http://facebook.com/SWFLAlternativeFuelsClub

http://facebook.com/SWFLBenzClub

http://SWFLBenzClub.com
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  #14  
Old 09-13-2012, 09:48 PM
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Does anybody know off hand the correct orientation of the check valves. I have a 1981 240d with the new style pump. There are two check valves on the bottom and one on the top. Thanks.
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  #15  
Old 09-14-2012, 03:35 AM
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Vacuum check valves always go with the flow going to the pump.

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