1996 Mercedes 300D has a bit of the flu (well actually, it's
 

having trouble starting up).

This is the situation so far. Vehicle was driven to a friend's recently. After 12 hours, I went to start it up. It was turning over but it wouldn't ignite. Eventually, if I kept the key to the far right it would stutter and struggle for quite a while. When it finally ignited, it would sound like a few cylinders were running and then it would just go dead. Thankfully I've only had to do this three times since I still have a spare daily driver.

If I struggle with it for about six to eight minutes the 300D will finally ignite. But... given this is one of the more modern (a.k.a. expensive) version of the diesels, I am not privy towards making the starter and all the associated hardware straing itself.

A little history on it. The vehicle was bought very recently (six days ago). The prior owner had performed all the Mercedes brochure requirements at the dealership for the first 150K. The dealer who had it in between apparently didn't have the 165K regimen done. I'm more than willing to do that and will make that the weekend project.

An oil change was also done in the last 1K with Mobil oil but it smells a bit like dino juice to me. Otherwise the car is flawless. I truly love it and I may have to forgo driving an old Camry to 300K if I can simply learn how to keep this newfangled thing for many more miles down the road.

Just an FYI, I had a 1987 350DSL that I sold with 287K to a fellow up in Minnesota for $3100 a couple of years back. My hope is that I can keep this one and my old trooper that I've had since college past the 300K mark. Since I'm in the car business and travel quite a bit, I think it would be wonderful to have two reliable vehicles with over 300K on the odometer for me and my wife.

Yeah, I know this generation of Mercedes is not cheap now. But I think 10 years down the road there may be more than enough spare parts at the local recycling centers to make this whole thing worthwhile. Oh, and if anyone is around the Atlanta area feel free to give me a call at (770) 262-9880.

macarose

Small Discliamer
 

I should add that after it not starting I usually wait about 60 to 90 seconds for the starter to catch it's breath.

Welcome to the forum.

What you have described is the typical symptoms when the glow plugs fail to operate. This may be caused by one, or more than one bad plug, or it may be caused by a bad relay, or it may simply be a blown fuse in the relay.

If you are unfamiliar with these items, take some time and go through the topics on the do-it-yourself resources fourm on this site.

The techniques for checking glow plugs and the relay are detailed there.

If you achieve the basic understanding of the system and still have difficulty, repost on this thread and we'll assist you.

block heater
 

Look , diligently , at the left front of the vehicle (lower portion) . YOU are
looking for a standard male 110/120 volt plug with enough cable to reach
about 3/4 of the way down the block from the front of the vehicle.
If you plug this in for 4 hours and still experience the starting difficulties...
It ain't the glow plugs!
(pluging in the block heater for that period of time will bring the engine up to
a temperature at which it must start ...given no other problems)

Check plastic fuel lines
 

Maybe the plastic fuel lines are leaking and air is in the system. Especially if parked nose up.

Bingo. Watch for bubbles in those lines while soemone else cranks it. If they are so dark brown that you can't see through them, then they should be replaced anyway.

fuel filter
 

How long has it been since the last fuel filter change?
Matt

99.9% chance it is the fuel lines, lift pump, or fuel filter. If those plastic fuel lines by the fuel filter are dirty brown, virtually opaque, you MUST change them. And since you have to pull the intake manifold to do so, you should also change the lift pump, which is relatively cheap. And throw a filter on there.

My car starts in 0 degree weather without hardly turning a single revolution on the starter, with 1 glow plug cycle. Basically when I hit the key, it's running.

Rgds,
Chris W.
'95 E300D, 201K

Thank you guys very much. I'm going to make this my little weekend project and see what comes out.

I seem to be on a bit of a Euro kick these days. Bought a 99 Vanden Plas, a 98 Volvo S80 and a 99 Passat 5-speed wagon this afternoon. The ifrst two I paid up for but the Passat I practically stole ($3925 including the auction fee). The Benz is a keeper and I'm going to try very hard to make it a daily driver for my long road travels.

I don't know where you drive around town but the Quick Trip at PleasantDale is the best and cheapest diesel spot in town. It is one of my regular stops between Kennesaw and Duluth. Have fun with the 96. I thought of getting one of those myself. I probably will get a 210 or 211 diesel one day.

If your concerned about reaching the 300K mark put your worries aside I have 322K on my 96 and it runs just fine, does not use any oil between 5K oil changes and gets 30+ miles per gallon highway. Listen to these guys on this forum they are a wealth of knowledge and if you ask the right questions and provide enough background some one here can help. Good luck and keep us up to date.

Still Searching...
 

Well it appears that I may have more of a trouble than I first anticipated...

I had a diesel mechanic look at it from the dealer auction and I've been told it needs a new fuel injection pump. That diagnosis actually does correspond with the behavior. It has trouble starting for several minutes... but when it fires up for the first time and stays running for a couple minutes, it stays running even if I pull it up to a gas station to fill it up.

I've been told that the cost to replace it is approximately 2K. If anyone here is in the Cobb County area of Georgia or Atlanta, and wouldn't mind being paid for a second and possibly more informed opinion, I'd be absolutely open to it.

Oh, and if anyone knows where I can get a fuel injector pump for the diesel if it's indeed what needs to be replaced, that would be fantastic.

Thanks again for all your help and sorry to be on the asking side of all this. I guess situation and circumstance are sometimes unavoidable.

Please provide the exact procedures used by the "diesel mechanic" to diagnose a faulty injection pump.

The usual behavior of a mechanic who really has no clue of what the problem is will be to blame the IP. I don't know of a single member of this forum who replaced the IP and successfully solved their issue. Other members will correct me if I am mistaken.

As usual Brian is right on the mark!

Injection pump???
 

NFW. Find another mechanic. If it runs ok once it has finally started, it's not the IP, IMHO.

Rgds,
Chris W.
'95 E300D