Repair or Replace Radiator on 603? - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

fantom71 · #1 01-29-2006, 05:17 PM

Attached is a picture of my most recent problem (do they ever go away?

. There is a 'bad' leak on my radiator. This leak is close to the bottom of the radiator coming from the side. The picture was made while I was pressing on the lower radiator hose. The question I have is that is this repairable (worth repairing by a indy shop) or will I have to install a new radiator. This is my daily driver and needs to be completed within the next 24 hours, so ordering online is not a real option. I do not have my Haynes manual (expidated shipping my arse 10 days and counting), so I will be flying blind but from my first look, it does not "seem" to be a big deal (but what diy does when you are in the planning stages?). If replace is the answer, are there recomendations on on brand? Also, and I am crossing my fingers on this one, is the radiator in the 85 603 non turbo W124 (Euro) the same radiator that is on the 86 300SD North American? That is what I am basing my querries on at the local parts houses.

ARGH

bhatt · #2 01-29-2006, 06:12 PM

I'd replace it for a couple of reasons:

1. You're pulling it out and reinstalling it anyhow
2. The new ones have a reinforced neck which won't break
3. Your old one is almost 20 yrs old.

Here's how to R&R a radiator in my OM603 300SDL.. yours should be really similar

1. Pull off the metal clips (think there are two) at the top of the fan shroud. Use a screwdriver and watch that they don't fly away from the tension.
2. Lift the fan shroud (two tabs at the bottom hold it in) and sit it on top of the fan.
3. Drain coolant. Or just do it when you pull the lower hose off in the next step.
4. Remove lower & upper rad hose clamps. If you're just replacing the rad, leave the hoses on the car. I'd loosen the clamps at the engine, then pull the radiator+hoses as an assembly. Put the new one in the same way (hoses already installed)
4. Loosen and remove the auto trans cooler lines (lower side of rad on the driver's side). These look like hoses with a coil spring on the outside.. you'll see what I mean when you see them. If they are leaking, replace them now while you're at it. Use a crowsfoot wrench for these - it's easier.
5. Pull the rad out & install the new one.

You don't need a manual for this, and now that I've done it once I can do it again in about 15 mins start to finish.

Hope this helps......

Neal

Ali Al-Chalabi · #3 01-29-2006, 06:27 PM

If you need it fixed right and it is your daily driver, I think it would be worth getting a new radiator especially if this is the original one.

compress ignite · #4 01-29-2006, 06:44 PM

1.The Radiator(s) are Aluminum with Plastic tanks.
2.The design (unless you are a master metalworker[spelled magician])makes it
almost impossible to repair.
3.Much less heartache with a new radiator.

'excluding throwing another corrosion variable into the mix,I've sworn I'd find an
old style copper radiator ....rather than go through the mess of trying to "fix"
one of the O.E.(s).

dieseldiehard · #5 01-29-2006, 10:59 PM

While the rad is out its a good time to clean the AC condensor by high pressure air and/or water from the backside. And flush the cooling system if that hasn't been done in a few years.
A new Behr will cost a little note than the other competitor, Nissens, but Behr is more reliable if that is a word anyone would use with respect to either of them

t walgamuth · #6 01-30-2006, 05:23 AM

the sd radiator will probably not work in a 124. i would be very surprised if it did.

you will need one from a 124. one from a turbo engine will probably work, but it may be slightly different. does your car have the overflow tank? you need to verify hose location and overall dimensions. physically any radiator from a 124 chassis should work. i wouldnt be surprised if 190 radiators will work too.

the gasser rads will probably have less cooling capacity though, so pay attention to the cooling tubes... two rows, or three rows, etc. a rad with less cooling capacity may work fine in the winter or in northern canada but be a problem in summer or in texas.

but prob not a sd (126 chassis).

best thing is to get one that is for your exact vehicle so it will drop in with out modificatins.

good luck

tom w

rdanz · #7 01-30-2006, 08:47 AM

I would repair if possible you can always replace later if it doesn't work out.
All your out is your labor.

t walgamuth · #8 01-30-2006, 08:53 AM

repair is possible by yourself?

tom w

TX76513 · #9 01-30-2006, 09:24 AM

Replace with new - the piece of mind is priceless.

rwthomas1 · #10 01-30-2006, 12:42 PM

I have an excellent local radiator shop that can fix the alloy/plastic units. If you don't have the time to do it yourself then find a shop that specializes in repair and either drop the car off or remove the unit yourself and drop it off. If it is in good shape the repair will be MUCH cheaper than a new one. If the radiator is not clogged and flows well why would you not just fix it? OTOH, you could order a new radiator and keep adding coolant until it arrives. This obviously has risks. Pay attention to the gauge. RT

Hatterasguy · #11 01-30-2006, 12:53 PM

Good luck getting a new radiator in 24 hours. At least for the SDL's only Behr makes the radiators for them and none of the local places carry them. The W124's maybe easyer. I'd talk to the local MB dealer and confirm the part numbers for a Euro 300D and a US 300D are the same, if you need it in 24 hours the dealer is also the fastest way to go. I'd expect to pay $550ish.

For a daily driver replace it. If its really old it is only a matter of time before the neck snaps off and you have bigger problems.

G1000-73784 Radiator Nissens IN STOCK $462.00 $325.70

Never mind I guess the W124's are a different animal. Hopefully the US spec radiator is the same or close enough to the euro.

fantom71 · #12 01-30-2006, 01:39 PM

Thanks for the informative posts.

What I have done:

1- Called all of the indy radiator shops in town. None will touch it (there are some drawbacks to living in Alabama, this seems to be one).
2- Called the dealership. $454 for new deliverable by Wednesday (luckily the PN was on the radiator), coaxed info from parts clerk about US versions that have same rad.
3- Called local parts houses, only one could order their house brand (strange) deliverable by middle of next week for $387
4- Called Phil. Rad (Behr, OE) plus some more goodies delivered by Friday for $253. Plus while on the phone, he helped me diagnose a suspension problem that will be my next "big" DIY.

Phil is DA MAN!

Hatterasguy · #13 01-30-2006, 01:53 PM

Plus if you really have to have it tomarrow he could probably overnight it. It would cost a bundle but if you gotta have it...

Since you will have a nice new radiator make sure to use the proper coolant MB, or Zerox G5.

Rich300TDMBZ · #14 01-30-2006, 02:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by t walgamuth

...physically any radiator from a 124 chassis should work. i wouldnt be surprised if 190 radiators will work too.

the gasser rads will probably have less cooling capacity though, so pay attention to the cooling tubes... two rows, or three rows, etc. a rad with less cooling capacity may work fine in the winter or in northern canada but be a problem in summer or in texas.

tom w

As far as I know the gas 124 radiators (300E)are not interchangable with that for the diesel (1987 300D, TD). I have not tried to put one in to see whether the tubes, etc line up, but the one for the diesels must be different from the gas, as they cost more and have different numbers. If anybody out there have used a 300E radiator in a 300D/TD successfully, I will be interest to know.

fantom71 · #15 01-31-2006, 03:31 AM

I am a bit ashamed to post this, but I being the 'cleaver' (read cheap) guy I am, decied to try to put a band aid on this leak to get me through to Friday when I can fix this problem for real (install the new rad).

I am impressed by the level of knowledge here on this board. There are guys on this board that have been fixing these engines for longer than I have been alive. If what I have done makes you want to yell at me, I can take it.

I went to the local parts place to get some more coolant (the Zerex) and walked by the epoxy asile. I got to thinking "what harm can I do?". I got some 60 second set time epoxy that is "safe for Al and can withstand 1250 psi and 450 degrees F". After I got the car back home, I waited until the coolant stopped seeping out of the affected area and cleaned the area as best I could. I then mixed the epoxy and waited until it was almost set and very thick. I then "slathered" it around the problem area. I am happy to say this stopped the leak. I drove the car tonight for about 75 miles (keeping a very close watch on the temp guage. The temp stayed at the correct point and when when I finished and let the engine cool down a bit, checked the coolant level. It is where it was before I started.

Please keep in mind this is only a band aid and I will replace the radiator Friday and I will perform a complete flush of the system.

How bad did I mess up?