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#1
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any ideas?
on how to get the 2 lines off an oil cooler w out damaging the lines? the damn nut is stuck on both ends an wont budge and im afraid to muscle f-it in fear of breaking something. i tried wd-40 but that didnt help.
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#2
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tight oil lines
Gently: Try gently tapping the connector with a screwdriver in the loosening direction (or a drift pin or small cold chisel).
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#3
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heh... i went through that once... right after i bought the car, i knew the oil cooler leaked, so i bought one from a junkyard, and i promptly broke one side of the threads off, and stripped the other (rust in the threads) fortunatly it was only a 10.00 expence. so i bought another one... 40.00!! but removed the lines before leaving. and then was the part which scared me half to death, removing the lines from MY CAR... what i did was put a wrench on the line, tap on the wrench with palm of hand, until it broke free, then 1 turn off, 1 turn back on, 2 off, 1 on, 2 off, 1 on repeat until loose. shouldn't booger up the threads.
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1982 300D (w123, "Grey Car") 1982 300D (w123, "Blue Car") 2001 Ford F150 "Clifford" (The Big Red Truck) 1997 Dodge Ram 2500 12V Cummins 1996 Dodge Ram 2500 12V Cummins Previous Vehicles: 1995 E300D, 1980 300SD, 1992 Buick Century, 2005 Saturn Ion |
#4
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thanks, ill try it out...i just dont want to break anything haha.
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#5
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Quote:
I was very sure that no amount of torque was going to safely break that fitting without damage. This is the lower fitting that has the typical corrosion. Spraying them down with penetrant for three days did nothing. Get youself a propane torch. Now, this is going to get a bit scary for you because you are heating an oil line.........but........have some faith: Heat the fitting with the torch and avoid the oil line. Heat all the way around the fitting with the torch and keep the flame within 1/2" of the fitting to ensure that you don't heat the line. Heat it for approximately two minutes..........NOT MORE. Have the proper wrench (24mm ??) ready to go. Shut the torch down and immediately put the wrench on the fitting and add massive torque. It will likely move. STOP. Now add penetrating fluid (Kroil or similar) all over the fitting and the threads. Turn the fitting the OPPOSITE DIRECTION (tighten it). It will move a tad.....back to it's original position. Now add torque to loosen it and move it slightly past the point of the first move. Again, reverse torque and move it back. You need to repeat this process about 200 times until you are positive that the fitting is sufficiently loose so it can be completely removed without thread damage. It took me about 90 minutes to safely do this fitting with the aforementioned procedure. PATIENCE IS A VIRTUE! |
#6
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forget the WD-40 and the propane torch
get some PB Blaster and a hair dryer. be patient and work slow, gentle taps, numerous PB Blaster soakings, use hair dryer to force PB into threads and gently heat up. use Lubro-Molly anti-seize paste or compound on all reassemblies
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1993 Mercedes Benz 300D 2.5 205K (ex wife's) 1984 Mercedes Benz 300SD 320K (SOLD) 2004 Mercedes Benz C240 75K 1995 GMC Sierra 2WD 5.7L 188K 1983 Mercedes Benz 300SD 239K (SOLD) 1987 BMW 325i 220K (SOLD FOR SALVAGE) 609 Certification |
#7
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It helps to use a GOOD flare-nut wrench on these fittings. The thicker head of flare-nut wrenches distributes turning force more evenly on the nut.
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#8
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Quote:
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#9
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good idea on the flare nut wrench...i think it is a 22mm or 24mm, hard to find that size but check advance auto, auto zone, jc whitley, harbour frieght tools, northen tools, agri-supply or track down the snap-on or mac tool truck $$$$. flare nut wrenches or crow foot are good to have anyway for a/c lines, pwr steering lines ect.
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1993 Mercedes Benz 300D 2.5 205K (ex wife's) 1984 Mercedes Benz 300SD 320K (SOLD) 2004 Mercedes Benz C240 75K 1995 GMC Sierra 2WD 5.7L 188K 1983 Mercedes Benz 300SD 239K (SOLD) 1987 BMW 325i 220K (SOLD FOR SALVAGE) 609 Certification |
#10
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I vote for the WD-40, propane torch and some careful tapping.
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