|
|
|
|
|
LinkBack | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#1
|
|||
|
|||
In the middle of fueling and boosting an OM617A - a couple final questions
Hi. I am in the middle of boosting and fueling my OM617A motor. It is currently in a Unimog 404.
Baseline for the truck is 10 psi boost at 4k rpm. 10psi is also the peak boost. I live at sea level in NH. I have read pretty much every available document and thread I could find on two forums to get this far. But I still have a couple q's if you all do not mind. I have already adjusted the wastegate tension screw on the Garrett 9 turns. I have opened the cap on the ALDA, but I have seen conflicting information on which way to turn the screw and how far. My thought is that 1/4 turn counter-clockwise is correct. Please verify or refute. Lastly, exactly what screw in the injection punp should be turned and how far. I have seen articles on improving the OM617A that only mention adjusting the wastegate tensioner and the ALDA. Is the injection pump change critical? If I adjust the injection pump do I need to correspondingly increase the wastegate tension beyond the nine turns? My goal is 14psi of boost. Thanks in advance. |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
|
#3
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
|
#4
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
|
#5
|
||||
|
||||
I assume you have a boost gauge installed?
You may want to buy a boost controller instead of fooling with the wastegate.
__________________
'85 300SD (formerly california emissions) '08 Chevy Tahoe '93 Ducati 900 SS '79 Kawasaki KZ 650 '86 Kawasaki KX 250 '88 Kawasaki KDX200 '71 Hodaka Ace 100 '72 Triumph T100R |
#6
|
|||
|
|||
can you say more about a boost controller and how it would bypass or modify the wastegeat, and where one can find such a thing...?
thanks!
__________________
Jeff ___ 1982 300D Turbo 150K PlantDrive Single tank WVO conversion 6000 veggie miles and counting! ----------- 1985 Ford F250 - 132K PlantDrive Two-tank WVO conversion 15,000 veggie miles and counting... Driving for FREE! |
#7
|
|||
|
|||
Egt
Talk to Brandon about the IP adjustments. He made a spanner that he loans free of charge. I think there is a pretty good tutorial he has written as well. Might try a search for "full load stop"? Is that right?
On a unimog - something that works real hard, but doesn't go all that fast - wouldn't EGT's be even more critical? At 95 on the freeway, you'd get a ton of air passing through the radiator/engine bay to HELP keep things from melting. At 0 mph trying to yank a stump, there'd be little or no air movement? Make any sense? Planning on intercooling as well? Jay.
__________________
On the road, currently: '83 300D (German spec.) 168k mi. - - Wolfgang (tucked snugly away for the winter!) '87 300D 375k mi. - finally went over to "The Dark Side" '87 300TD 225k mi. Cannondale 66cm CAAD5 w/Campy/Jamis Aurora Hujsak Custom Fixie/Landshark Track Shark Custom/Ahearne Custom 29'er |
#8
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
First you need to understand how the turbo and actuator/wastegate all works... The exhaust gasses press on the turbine side, spinning the compressor side. When the pressure on the intake/compressor side becomes too great (sensed by the actuator through the rubber tube from the compressor), the actuator flips the wastegate to allow exhaust gasses to bypass the exhaust side turbine, slowing spin of the compressor wheel, lowering pressure to the intake. Simple? The boost controller is between the compressor and the wastegate actuator. This allows you to determine how much pressure you want the actuator to "feel". For example, if you have the boost controller set to 15psi, the actuator will not get any pressure until 15 psi is reached. It's basically a wastegate actuator actuator that you can adjust from inside the car. |
#9
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
|
Bookmarks |
|
|