I came off the interestate doing about 80-85 for the last 40 minutes and filled up with fuel. When I went to start, no start.

I had juice, power everything worked and it nothing seemed bogged down, but the starter wouldn't even click. I didn't think it was a dead battery seeing as I just flew off the interstate, but I got a jump anyway. It started no problem at all.

I went to an auto parts place to use their battery/alternator checker thing, and everything tested OK.

Anybody have any thoughts on this one?

Thanks is advanced,

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B
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1983 300SD

sounds like sticky solenoid syndrome. next time try cycling the key a bunch of times..

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1984 300D Turbo - 231k....totalled 11/30/07 RIP

solonoids going out. Your 4 choices are as follows

1: continue to drive normally, just never shut it off
2: cycle the key a bunch of times so it starts
3: if #2 fails, smack the soloniod with a broom handle
4: get a new starter/solonoid (DO THAT)

Its a PITA, but well worth not getting stranded
~Nate

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95 Honda Shadow ACE 1100.
1999 Plymouth Neon Expresso. 2.4 swap, 10.5 to 1 comp, big cams. Autocross time attack vehicle!
2012 Escape, 'hunter" (5 sp 4cyl)

Why would the jump cause the solonoid to work? Excuse my ignorance, but is the solonoid part of the started or seperate? I don't think I've ever had a vehicle where the starter went out.

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B
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1983 300SD

its seperate. Theres the big thing, which is a small coffee can siz, and thats your starter

The other thing is about as big as a flashlight, and thats the solonoid. The jolt loosens the bendix? up, which engages the starter... Use something like a broom handle, and tap it (knocking on door hardness)

Just replace them both if you can afford it

*EDIT*fastlane doesnt sell them seperate... http://catalog.eautopartscatalog.com/mercedesshop/sophio/quote.jsp?clientid=catalog.mercedesshop&cookieid=1Q516BXC31Q516CZHC&baseurl=http://catalog.peachparts.com/&partner=mercedesshop&year=1983&product=F5000-91321&application=000006693 *EDIT*
~Nate

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95 Honda Shadow ACE 1100.
1999 Plymouth Neon Expresso. 2.4 swap, 10.5 to 1 comp, big cams. Autocross time attack vehicle!
2012 Escape, 'hunter" (5 sp 4cyl)

OK, I see it. That's what I figured but I wanted to make sure. I think I'll have to replace the whole unit. Doesn't look like the solenoid is sold seperatly. At least I didn't see in here on FastLane.

In the mean time, broom stick goes in car, and truck gets driven even more.

Thanks

*EDIT* I didn't see you edit just now. Whole unit it is.

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B
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1983 300SD

probably a coincidence, or maybe some extra juice.

solenoid is separate but most folks just replace the entire starter as they
don't want to have to do the whole job over again.
sure you can bang on it but in my experience cycling the key does the trick.
in fact, so far, it has never failed to start by doing that.

others have solved this problem by replacing the starter.

i would concurr that this usually happens after a fairly long highway run and more often in summer, so i think heat has a lot to do with it.

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1984 300D Turbo - 231k....totalled 11/30/07 RIP

I have looked at the starter on my SD, it looks like a huge pita to remove and replace. This is not a job I would want to do again so, a Bosch rebuilt starter seems like the way to go.

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1999 SL500
1969 280SE
2023 Ram 1500
2007 Tiara 3200

If the solenoid was the culprit, it would engage randomly. The jump from another battery would not cause it to engage, unless your battery was low on voltage.

So, either we have a fantastic coincidence, or the solenoid is not the culprit.

However, when you attach jumper cables to the battery clamps, you cause the clamps to squeeze down slightly. So, if the inside of the battery clamps are not clean, the act of adding jumper cables can give the clamps the extra connection that they need.

I'd clean the inside of the clamps and the posts.......just to rule it out........then I'll believe the coincidence.

check your grounds. battery to frame and engine to frame. and for good measure try using a jumper cable to go from the neg on bat to the starter bolt. if this helps a permanent auxiliary ground may be needed. very common problem on older cars.

if your ground is bad or weak the engine being hot from running hard on the road and the heat soak of shutting it off and letting it sit will make a poor ground or any other electrical weakness aggrivated.

high heat or low cold increases the resistance of electrical movement so any weak parts will fail when it is very hot or very cold. and that is why when i am on a trip i try not to shut off my engine for short stops, and for long stops in the summer i open the hood to let the motor compartment cool at its max.

i have been on trips too many times and found a dead battery when i try to restart a hot car or truck.

tom w

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

Excellent. Thank you for the bad contacts and ground theories. I did think it odd that if it were the starter that it would turn when I got the jump. I'll try cleaning the posts and such. Save myself some dough.

Again, Muchas Gracias

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B
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1983 300SD

As Brian said, "However, when you attach jumper cables to the battery clamps, you cause the clamps to squeeze down slightly. So, if the inside of the battery clamps are not clean, the act of adding jumper cables can give the clamps the extra connection that they need."

Another interpretation, in the event that your battery post connections are inadequate, is that a jump effectively bypasses the batter, hence you get sufficient voltage/current to the solenoid/starter assembly with a jump.

I had a problem with my wagon, drove about four hours, stopped and came back out and no start. Lights fine, nothing at the starter. Big click inside the car. Wiggled the shifter, then banged on the side of the console, car started. Haven't replaced it yet, seems to be starting fairly regularly.

I have replaced a starter on mine, don't want to consider doing it again. I'd check the shifter no-start switch (can't remember the proper name) first before I replace the starter.

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Peter
1985 300TD 4-speed 212K
1992 400E 343K
2001 E320 72K

I would say its most definately your solanoid. I've had this problem now on two cars. You said you were driving at 80-85 so it was really hot under the hood. I'm not sure why but heat will cause a solanoid that is going out to stick but the added 13.5+ voltage from a running car is enough to force it to engage. It may not work on the first try but mine always started after being jumped a few times. Yes that starter is a royal PITA to replace. I just bought a Bosch starter off of Fastlane and paid a mechanic I know $95 to put it in. I thought it was money well spent. And yes, I went through everything before I blamed the starter, new batter, alt was fine, cleaned all contacts-batt, starter, ground, main chasis ground. A new starter did the trick. It spins so much faster too.

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Seth

1984 300D 225K
1985 300D Donor body
1985 300D Turbo 165K. Totaled. Donor Engine. It runs!!!
1980 300SD 311K My New Baby.
1979 BMW 633csi 62K+++? Dead odo

That's an even better interpretation..........most of the juice is coming from the cables and the poor clamp connection is avoided.