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  #1  
Old 02-04-2006, 09:07 PM
Cabernet red, actually
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Willamette Valley, OR
Posts: 503
Question Locks not working after "hiss" sound

Today I was doing some research on taking the lock assembly out of the passenger side door of my car. It takes a lot of patience to get the key to turn to the left on that door (with graffite), and I've had no luck getting it to go to the right. I've read on this site that there is a way to turn the key 60 degrees in one direction and get the assembly out without taking the door apart, but I wasn't having any luck with this. So I tried in on the driver's side door.

I turned the key about 60 degrees to the right, started fiddling, and heard a hissing sound that lasted a few seconds then stopped. Same thing when I turned it to the left side and fiddled with the key. I had no luck getting the lock assembly out, and after this my central locking stopped working.

The first couple of times I locked the driver's side door only the front passenger door also locked. After this, it stopped working, too.

I thought maybe I'd disconnected a hose or something so I took the door apart but that does not seem to be the problem. Further invesitgation had to be called off 'till tomorrow due to rain and the fact that it was getting dark.

I guess I should check out the control valve and the vacuum switch next? I figure the problem is probably something close to the lock.

So if anyone has any insight, or could tell me exactly where the vacuum switch is, it would be appreciated. I haven't been able to find a whole lot of info. on this here or in the CD manual I have.

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Ralph

1985 300D Turbo, CA model
248,650 miles and counting...
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  #2  
Old 02-04-2006, 10:08 PM
RAYMOND485
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: CALIF
Posts: 508
Door Locks

1984 300d Turbo 137k
The Master Door Vacuum Switch Is In The Top Drivers Door Not Expensive Or Hard To Replace, First Check The Vacuum In The Engine
5 Way Out To Locks Near The Master Cyl Had A Fuel Door Slow Overnight Vacuunm Leak. Actuator Leak, And Fuel Door, Replace Ok
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  #3  
Old 02-05-2006, 12:32 AM
Cabernet red, actually
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Willamette Valley, OR
Posts: 503
Thanks for that advice.

Anyone know if there's any possibility of fixing a broken vacuum switch?
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Ralph

1985 300D Turbo, CA model
248,650 miles and counting...
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  #4  
Old 02-05-2006, 01:16 AM
Unregistered Abuser
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Eau Claire WI
Posts: 968
new one, go to fastlane, 3rd from left on the upper menu)


good luck, im trying to piddle with mine...
~Nate
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1999 Plymouth Neon Expresso. 2.4 swap, 10.5 to 1 comp, big cams. Autocross time attack vehicle!
2012 Escape, 'hunter" (5 sp 4cyl)
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  #5  
Old 02-05-2006, 11:26 AM
rg2098's Avatar
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Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Rochester Hills, MI
Posts: 2,415
Quote:
Originally Posted by Maroon 300D
Thanks for that advice.

Anyone know if there's any possibility of fixing a broken vacuum switch?
You would be the first that I know of. They are fairly inexpensive and probably not worth your time to figure out a repair. Just buy a new one at fastlane.

Fastlane part.

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  #6  
Old 02-05-2006, 02:50 PM
Cabernet red, actually
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Willamette Valley, OR
Posts: 503
Wink Fixed



It turns out the system had just lost pressure and running the engine for about 20 seconds solved the problem. Unfortunately, I didn't figure this out before I took the door apart. Oh well, I know a lot more about the central locking system now than I did 24 hours ago. and that panel isn't that bad to get on/off.

Thanks for the advice, everyone.

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1985 300D Turbo, CA model
248,650 miles and counting...
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