Hello again everyone. Since I am pulling my engine/trans soon to do my rear main, I figure it would be a good time to maybe go through the trans and at least replace the clutches and seals. Anyone done this at home before? I downloaded the ATSG manual and it seems like a pretty easy unit. My trans is still working, just maybe since its already out. Thanks, Eric.

If he doesn't happen to notice this thread, you might bring it to the attention of Pete Burton.

Tools are the main problem. You will need to purchase, build or improvise special tools in order to rebuild a tranny. A clutch press, special bushing drivers and other various tools will probably be needed. If you can weld, do lathe work or have the money to afford expensive tools, go for it. A rebuild generally entails replacing seals, gaskets, clutch discs/bands and worn hard parts. New hardparts for a Benz tranny can be breathtakingly expensive compared to prices for similar domestic tranny parts.

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Diesel-guy

Expensive? I pulled my 87 300D's tranny so I could get the seals replaced. The place I'm taking it quoted $200 for a reseal. Also if I wanted they could replace the clutch discs. Not much more labor involved and the discs would cost $11 each.

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DJ


84 300D Turbodiesel 190K with 4 speed manual sold in 03/2012

The seals are cheap, its everything else.. B-1 brake band ~$110 B-2 brake band ~$200, front pump ~$375, B-2 piston ~$110, valve body ~bend over....

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Over 21 years I owned several:
w108
w110
w111
w115
w116
w123
w124
w126
w212

I have some experience with domestic automatics. Since automatics are generally the same, work on the same principles, the MB should not be all that difficult. What goes bad in an automatic, 9 times out of 10, is the seals.

Rubber lip seals are literally EVERYWHERE in autos. They seal the pistons in the clutch packs, etc. When the seals get old and less pliable they no longer hold pressure and the clutches slip and burn up. Shifting becomes erratic, etc. The valvebodys get gunked up with clutch material and other debris. Simply disassembling, cleaning and installing all new seals and thoroughly cleaning out the valvebody will make an automatic "like new". I never needed any special tools other than several pairs of snapring pliers and an inch/lb torque wrench to work on them. Sure a press is needed to replace some bushings/bearings but I never needed to do this.

In my experience the bushings, bearings, planetary gears, etc. don't seem to wear out in normal use. All the autos I worked on that were broken were from abuse, mainly drag racing. That will break all kinds of internal parts. An auto that is just slipping and not shifting correctly doesn't usually have broken hard parts. Our turbodiesels don't make enough power to break hard parts or really wear them significantly.

RT

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When all else fails, vote from the rooftops!
84' Mercedes Benz 300D Anthracite/black, 171K
03' Volkswagen Jetta TDI blue/black, 93K
93' Chevrolet C2500HD ExCab 6.5TD, Two-tone blue, 252K

What is meant by a transmission reseal?, is this a term that a transmission shop would know?, Is there a reseal kit avialiable? and is this something that can be down by a DIY'er? Thanks

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1979 300D.

Thanks for the replys so far. I saw the rebuild kit on Fastlane is around 230 bucks, not bad. I hope the B2 band is not smoked. It holds now but it was slipping when I bought the car. I have since "repaired" my B2 piston hoping it would last a week or so until the replacement comes but it has lasted 10,000 miles so far so I may just keep using it. I figure since the unit is going to be out (and pressure washed), I may as well do it during the engine reseal. No one has had anything bad to say so that's good. If I need, I can always take a few hard parts in to work and use the press or whatever. Eric.

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1984 300D, 246k, veggie, sold
1982 300SD 301k

I too wonder about this. I plan on pulling the engine and tranny out of my wrecked '85 when I can find a good donor body. Shifting into any gear had about a three second delay and I want to reseal everything.

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Seth

1984 300D 225K
1985 300D Donor body
1985 300D Turbo 165K. Totaled. Donor Engine. It runs!!!
1980 300SD 311K My New Baby.
1979 BMW 633csi 62K+++? Dead odo

It's doable by a patient DIY. The few special tools I needed were made with my pocketknife, hand grinder and a pair of pliers. Rebuild kit cost about $170 including parts and instructions for replacing internal seals in the clutch packs at: http://www.bulkpart.com Other parts are available and prices are good, shipping fast. Take the ATSG manual with a huge bag of salt- it's just chock full of mixed up pictures and references. I'd use the reference Brandon posted, sure wish I had that when I did my rebuild.

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'82 300SD - 361K mi - "Blue"

"Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement."

listen, look, .........and duck.