I have a new friend who ownes a MB Service Shop in Beaumont, which is
about 7 hours from here. I pulled valve cover and the timing chain tensioner.
And had to rotate the motor to check the timing. I could not get a cheeter
pipe on my socket...so I had to kick the socket wrench with my foot to get
the motor to rotate. I could not turn it by hand...and for what it is worth,
I'm a pretty stout ole boy.

Anyway, got 'er done and the timing is good.

The entire power delivery system has been checked. All is good. The starter
is new and is good. The battery is new and is the right size. All battery cables
have been cleaned and checked and are good. Both positive and negative.

I still have yet to eliminate the accessories. I will let you know tomorrow what
the results are.

Brian, let me ask you a (maybe stupid) question. Is there any chance the
transmission could be locked to the motor and causing this?

FYI-The car will only TRY to crank in park or neutral. I will not try to start in
any gear or reverse.

Thanks.

Great story with a happy ending...only hoping mine will turn out the same!

Thanks.

So, your car not running yet?

I have found over the years that a no start on a previously running engine is often one of these problems....

#1.Glow plugs not getting red. If they do not glow, the engine will not usually start if more than two plugs are not working....the ONLY real way to test them is to remove the injector hard lines and injectors...turn on key to 'run' and then look down each injector hole to check every glow plug is turning 'red'. You may have voltage but this way it proves without doubt they are functional.

Next...Unusual but happens...Ignition key sometimes dos not switch on 'glow plug' relay....fuse or ignition key problem. The above test eliminates this possibility.


#3. Fuel delivery/quality. Fuel should not be more than two seasons old.

#4. Engine compression. Low compression will make for hard starts....sometimes the fuel wash from a previous no start will wet the rings/cylinders and get enough compression to allow it to start if there are none of the above problems.

Tow starting....pre 1984 cars with automatics have a rear pump driven by the drive shaft and can be tow started when put in gear above 20 mph.
I am not 100% sure your car was fitted with this style of transmision...others may know.
.

__________________
[http://languageandgrammar.com/2008/01/14/youve-got-problems-not-issues/ ]

"A liberal is someone who feels they owe a great debt to their fellow man, which debt he proposes to pay off with your money."

You know at this point you might want to try tow starting it. You can tow start the SDL's the manual in your glove box will give you the speeds. Their is a big hook welded onto the fram that works just great for this.

To rule out any of the acc I'd remove the serp belt and see if all the pullys spin. It may even be worth cranking it without the belt to see if it makes a difference. Just don't let it run for more then a second because the water pump won't be pumping without the belt.

__________________
1999 SL500
1969 280SE
2023 Ram 1500
2007 Tiara 3200

You've certainly done your homework, that's for sure.


The test of rotating the engine with a socket wrench is inconclusive. If you have decent strength, you should be able to rotate the engine with a 1/2" socket wrench. So, it may be possible that one of the accessories is causing problems. This is a very easy test. Just take the tension off the belt and see if all accessories can be rotated by hand. You don't even need to remove the belt or attempt to start the engine. If any accessory won't turn, that's your culprit right there.

No, there is no possibility of the transmission preventing the engine from rotating. The transmission cannot engage until there is pressure from the pump. This requires the engine to be running.......or the rear wheels to be turning. The engine won't crank in any gear but Park or Neutral due to the safety switch.

I would NOT attempt to tow start it. Find the problem as to why you have insufficient cranking speed. Once this problem is resolved, then it will likely start.

IBBadACclutchorblowncompressor

Gentlemen we have a winner....

The Air Conditioner Compressor is locked up tigher than a drum!

As bad as this might be...what a relief.

Would someone please recommend the best place to get a new or
rebuilt one.

You guys are great.

Thanks a Million.

on several occasions that that will definately cause a problem.

i am surprised it turned at all. you must be STOUT indeed.

tom w

__________________
[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

If the climate control is turned off (or in ECON mode), the a/c compressor shouldn't be engaged. There is a clutch that enables it when 12v is run through the clutch. I believe there is a 2-prong connector (or two separate 'blade' type connectors.. can't remember which) on the a/c compressor.

If you pull that plug from the compressor, it shouldn't run at ALL. If you've been trying to start the car with the climate control off or in ECON mode, your clutch is OK. If not, it has siezed up and is keeping the a/c compressor running all the time.

Try pulling the plug and you can at least drive the car. Here in Canada we won't need the A/C for 5 more months.. can you do the same in TX? Just kidding.. my Dad lives in Houston so I have experienced HOT!

Neal

PS. Wow.. wouldn't have thought that a siezed a/c compressor would put up any resistance against a rubber belt and high-torque diesel starter motor! I would have thought the belt would have slipped MUCH easier than it apparently does!

__________________
'83 300SD 335,000km (207k) mi SOLD
'87 560SL 163,000km (101k mi) SOLD
'86 300SDL 356,000km (220k mi) SOLD
'92 500SEL 250,000km (155k mi) SOLD
'90 300SL 140,000km (87k mi) SOLD
'01 S430 260,000km (161k mi) SOLD
'03 SL500 167,000km (104k mi) SOLD
'07 S550 4MATIC 235,000km (146k mi) SOLD
'07 GL320 CDI 4MATIC 348,000km (215k mi)
'13 GL350 BlueTec 4MATIC 170,000km (105k mi)
'14 SL550 72,000km (43k mi)

M/B had thought of the possibility of a seized compressor and the fact that it could take out the belt. The compressor has rpm inputs to the Klima relay which will disengage the clutch if the speed of the compressor does not match the proportional speed of the engine. Naturally, if the clutch is seized, the safety device isn't going to help much.

If the compressor was fully seized, it would smoke the belt in short order. But, the starter motor probably has sufficient torque to attempt a start albeit with slower crank speed due to the friction of the non-rotating belt or the friction of the rotating belt over the non-rotating clutch pulley.

First time I have heard of one seizing. Well now for the bad news they are expensive think $700. Fastlane right at the top of the page has them listed.

Just an fyi the 420SEL uses the same compressor, however since it uses V belts insted of the serp you will need to adapt a used one. I think by swapping out the clutch and pully which doesn't help you. I am not to sure though I have a spare one I just never looked at it.

__________________
1999 SL500
1969 280SE
2023 Ram 1500
2007 Tiara 3200

Wow, the Nippondenso was locked up!? Odd that it started and ran the first day.
I should be get a used one with the serpentine belt off a SDL that is being parted out as I write this (sorry the engine's already gone!). PM me if interested.
I would also inspect the belt to see if it got skinned where the compressor pulley rubbed on the belt, it should have the ribs left if not you need to change it also.
What is the eBay insurance thing going to do about this?

__________________
'95 E320 Wagon my favorite road car. '99 E300D wolf in sheeps body, '87 300D Sportline suspension, '79 300TD w/ 617.952 engine at 367,750 and counting!

Engines need three things to run, air, fuel, and heat. Since it started before and ran and you shut if off, I think the problem may lie in a simple explanation. Your mechanic checked alot of items, but did he check the simple things as stated above. Many times the problem will be something simple that gets overlooked, to find something complicated.

__________________
1981 300D 147k
1998 VW Jetta Tdi 320k
2001 Dodge Ram 2500 141k
1979 300D 234k (sold)
1984 300D "Astor" 262k(sold)
Mercedes How-To and Repair Pictorials
I love the smell of diesel smoke in my hair

...late Sunday evening I got the timing chain tensioner put back
together and installed. And reinstalled the valve cover. For the
moment I left the cross-over member off. I really want to hear
this car run again.

Monday afternoon I finally got the belt tensioner off...I didn't
quite understand the instructions, but I got it off! I moved the
belt clear of everything and decided to spin her over just for
grins. Well the glow plug lamp did not come on? What's up
with that? Called Napa, had to order the 80 amp fuse.

Tuesday afternoon, installed the new glow plug relay fuse
(this is the second one). Checked the volts to the gpr, same as
the battery. Checked the ohms on the plug side to the glow
plugs, all 6 of them came in less that 1.0. Checked the volt as
the gpr was cycling, all ready about 12.48 which is slightly
less than what the battery is reading. According to directions
here on the form, all checks out good.

Decided to spin her over. Well, the glow plug lamp did not
come on! What the....as I mentioned above the gpr is working
properly. But the lamp inside is not coming on. I tried to crank
her up after the 2nd gpr cycle. She turned over just fine but
would not crank. I tried this three times with no luck.

So I'm thinking air in the lines and I better crack the fuel lines
at the injectors. OK I cracked each of them one at a time,
cranked on her for a few seconds, got fuel at each one and
tightened all back up. She still wouldn't crank.

Just before dark when my wife got in, I decided to bleed each
line as you would a tractor. So my wife cranked and I opened
and closed each injector (after getting fuel) while she was
cranking. She still would not crank...turned over fine but.

Which brings us to today. I'm thinking air still in the lines. So
about noon with the temperature at about 75 and the engine
heater plugged in to boot. I tried her again, nothing. In case
ya'll don't know I'm getting pretty pissed about this whole
deal. So, I decided to give her some encouragement to crank..
I shot a small amount of 'starting fluid' where the cross-over
member bolts to while the gpr was cycling and when the gpr
finished I tried to crank her. Well she did momentarily but
would not continue running. I did the whole thing again and
she cranked. I ran her for a few minutes keeping an eye on
the temperature. Let her set for 15 minutes, she cranked up
all by herself just fine.

About an hour later...she would not crank. What is going on?
This is driving me nuts or maybe I should say 'walking' me nuts!
What could be the problem?

In response to a couple of post...

Yes, I am going to replace the belt.
The insurance agency for eBay has already paid me. Not
near enough, however it could have been worse.
I spoke with Phil today and he quoted me a very reasonable
price on the a/c compressor, dryer and expansion valve. I'll
probably go with him.

So what's next, where and what do I need to check?

Thanks a Bunch

Just so we're clear on terminology:

"Crank" means to turn the key to the start position and engage the starter. The engine will "crank" provided that the starter engages the flywheel and there is sufficient voltage to turn the starter.

If it does not "crank", you have starter/battery issues.

In your case, it "cranks" just fine. What it will not do is "run".

The fact that the glow plug light will not illuminate is the most important point in the aforemetioned story. If we assume that the bulb is not burned out, you have one or more than one glow plug failure.

However, all of your tests, as described, appear to indicate that all the plugs are working correctly. So, somewhere in the testing procedure is an error. I can't tell what it is........but several glow plugs are bad......or the relay is not functioning properly.

The only other possibility is a burned out bulb for the glow plugs, but this then begs the question of why it will not start. You have sufficient fuel at the injectors and the only reason that it will not run appears to be the fact that there is no heat to light off the fuel. The 603 is very intolerant of glow plug failures. Even an engine that has been run several hours ago will crank for awhile if all the plugs are out.