I just wrecked my 82 300TD and I am afraid the insurance is going to try to use blue book to try to total my 82 300TD that has only 143K. It took awhile to find this one!! It looks like an easy fix, but parts availibility and age of vehicle and whatever else they come up with

It was in great condition 9 out of 10. I rear ended a car yesterday afternoon and my wagon suffered the worst. It took out the grill, core supports, bumper, lights, hood, maybe the fenders, radiator for sure, maybe a/c condensor, maybe trans cooler, etc., etc. I'll know for sure when I have it towed to a body shop.

There's 2 recent ebay sales bewteen 8K and 10K

81 237K+ miles for 10,700
84 164K+ miles for 8,500

Anyone know of other recent auctions? Wasn't there one on Ebay for over 12K recently?

Anyone keep track of other sales or know where to find the data?

How much did you pay for the car? Those prices seem way high to me. When I was rear-ended, my '85, with about 165k was valued at $3700. That was a heck of a deal for me because I only paid $2500 for it. Sorry to hear about your loss. Maybe if the engine's good you could do like I'm doing and find a good body to swap it into. Best of luck and don't let them work you over.

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Seth

1984 300D 225K
1985 300D Donor body
1985 300D Turbo 165K. Totaled. Donor Engine. It runs!!!
1980 300SD 311K My New Baby.
1979 BMW 633csi 62K+++? Dead odo

I saved some background talk on the subject, I hope this helps! quote:
"Tell your adjuster you do not want a "economic" or "constructive" loss settlement that you want a "comparative" settlement. Look at the Appraisal Clause in your policy. If you and your insurance company do not agree as to the settlement value of your auto damage claim, either you or the company may invoke the Appraisal Clause. That means you would hire an appraiser to represent your interests, the insurance company would hire an appraiser to represent their interests and those two [2] would hire a third appraiser to act as "umpire" or "Referee". In the event the first two appraisers fail to reach an agreement as to a reasonable settlement value, they would each submit their respective work product to the third appraiser for determination.

It's a bunch of work and in your case there is not big $$'s between you and the adjuster - probably will allow you to get repaired.
I had to fight the same fight a couple of years ago when someone rear-ended my SD. The damage was visually minor looking, but required some more complex bodywork to fix, so I wanted my MB-only shop to fix it, to make sure it was done right. They wanted to do the salvage title thing, so I could keep the car instead of totalling it and getting another one. I said no way, because that will kill the resale value of my car (of course I didn't tell them that I NEVER intend to sell the car).

I said to them, "Your customer hit my car. You are contractually and legally obligated to return my car to the condition it was in before your customer hit it. I want to keep THIS car, not another car. I don't want the value of this car ruined by a salvage title, or bad bodywork. Send an adjuster to verify the great condition of this car, and all the money and effort I've spent getting it there, and that person will see why you MUST fix this car."

They did, and I got the money to fix it properly at the body shop of MY preference.

Don't let the bastards walk all over you. It is the adjuster's job help the insurance company honor the claim at the lowest cost possible, but times like this are why you've been paying thier exorbitant premiums for all these years--they will fix your car if you are firm with them."

Mike
aka Mikemover Atlanta, GA
posted 12/30/03 Shopforum

and

Know your policy language first. It probably states you are owed an "actual cash value" of the vehicle or a market value.

If you and the insurance company cannot agree on an amount, there is also probably an arbitration clause on first party claims in which you can envoke an arbitrator to determine the value. The down side for you is the cost of obtaining this as the insurance company will not pay for this, however if data is on your side, this can be a good way to get your $$ value. Also, the insurance company normally will go up in the offer to avoid this as it is very time consuming and a pain in the butt for a disagreement of only $2,000. Use this as your last resort.

To back up your value, get details on how they came up with theirs. You should then pull NADA, Edmunds, NADA Classic cars, and every web listing you can find, to show values of vehicles like yours. If you check the NADA classic values, the low retail is 4k on your car with high of 11k.

Throw every value and every car you can find on the net at them, along with every detail on your car. Do not give up on slamming them with information. Shoot them a high value and "settle" for the right value.

I was a manager in claims for over 10 years. As a general rule, all consumers think their veh's are worth more than they are, and every adjuster thinks they are worth less than they are. The difference is the one person is looking at it strictly from a transportation thing, and the owner has more at stake both $$ and emotionally.

That being said, you should be able to get 4-5k on this if you do the above, based on a quick search of values. If all fails, and you have some data that backs 5k, invoke the arbitration clause and see where that gets you..

Good Luck..

http://www3.nadaguides.com/Values/V...r=1982&ColorId=
One more thing...

The insurance company may have another concern of raising the value to 4k. If they do so and the veh becomes "repairable", they are then on the hook to repair the vehicle properly and to completion.

IE.. they could get in to the repair, have supplements from the shop, and end up paying 4k for the repair. (not sure if there was a tear down prior to the initial estimate). This is the biggest fear as companies :
1. hate to repair a veh that should have been totalled.
2. do not want the liability of not repairing a veh fully and properly. Hence sometimes it is easier to total a veh vs repair, especially on older veh.

The solution to this:
1. Get the value high enough to not make the veh a total
2. as a concession, agree contractually to a repair amount. Get the veh torn down, contractually agree to a repair amount, so that the ins company is assured that they will not get supplemented to death.

Just another way to keep a clean title on the car if that is what you want, all based on substantiating that the value is high enough to repair vs replace
Posted by fishin 1/104

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'95 E320 Wagon my favorite road car. '99 E300D wolf in sheeps body, '87 300D Sportline suspension, '79 300TD w/ 617.952 engine at 367,750 and counting!

I sold my 85 wagon last fall for $8200. No rust, perfect interior, just rebuilt tranny, brakes and 210k miles. People on various online forums thought I was way out of line on the pricing. It sold the first day I posted it on my local Craigslist and I had two other people waiting to buy it.

I used the pricing from www.nadaguides.com, and $8200 was within their range for this car.

Good luck.

__________________
1970 280SE Cab
1983 300D Euro 4-speed
past MB's:
1971 280SE 3.5 s/r
1981 300D
1985 300TD
1987 300TD

I went to school for auto damage appraisal. A suggestion to all owners of MB cars in exceptional condition is to pay for a professional appraisal to determine the vehicles true worth. A clean car in exceptional condition can and should be insured for the true value of the car that will be higher than the book value. We just bought a clean rust free 1983 300SD. The body is very straight and clean. The original paint is getting thin after 23 years so a repaint is on the list for this spring. After that it costs around $250 in my area for a professional appraisal of my cars value. That way if someone rear ends us we are not out the extra money we spent for the car and the new paint job. I learned this lesson the hard way. I had a 1984 Mustang GT rear ended by a 81 y/o woman and totaled. I fought hard to get more money than the book value even with over $6K in receipts for work done and premium aftermarket parts in the car. In the end I got paid more than book value but less than the true value of the car. You will pay more for your auto insurance also, but if the car is totaled you will not lose your shirt. Taking MANY pictures is a good idea to also help the appraiser determine the value of the car. Receipts are also a good thing to have on hand. We are not going crazy with our car. I will have the original paint ablated off with sand blasting after I remove the chome and body side mouldings. Then it will be primed with a rust inhibitor paint like Magnet paint. Then the body will be repainted the original color. Then I will have it professionally appraised. Some of our cars are over 30 years old now, and if they are in exceptional shape they all should have a professional appraisal done to them. My Dad had a 1963 Impala SS. In 1969 he had the motor rebuilt, transmission rebuilt. Then less than one hour out of the body shop with the fresh paint coming home from the body shopa drunk driver hit him head on.. Don't wait until after your car is hit to have it professionally appraised. It is always an uphill battle after the accident. A little tidbit is if you are hit do not get the rental car through your own insurance company. Use the other person's to get a better car and more money for the rental than your own insurance company will pay for. You are entitled to like kind and quality. Also if your car is hit talk to your damage adjuster when they write out the estimate. The insurance companies all use the term "LQK" for replacing body parts. This means like kind and quality. What that REALLY means is they are using USED body panels and parts to repair your car. You may want to pay for the additional small cost difference for buying new body parts to have your car repaired. Then AFTER the car is repaired have an inspection performed of the work that was just done by a good shop. Many cars are totaled as a result of unsafe body work and repairs after they were repaired unsafely. It is a mess but the bottom line is if you have an exceptionally nice car pay the $250 or even a little more money for a professional appraisal. Then take a copy of that report to your own insurance agent to have your cars insurance plan adjusted to reflect the true value of the car. This can save you from a lot of grief and many months of fighting with them. Good luck! John

How does one go about getting a professional appraisal? For example I have Allstate would they even care? Or would they say so what we go by book value.

I ask because I feel my SDL is worth $7k-$8k on the open market and the book value is nothing, what $3k on a good day maybe?

This sounds like a good thing to do, I'd love to get an agreed value classic car policy but then they restirct how much you can drive it.

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1999 SL500
1969 280SE
2023 Ram 1500
2007 Tiara 3200

There are professional appraisal services available. However if the car is insured for $3000.00 As opposed to $8000.00. your not going to get $8000.00. You May get $2500.00 If your lucky. The pay out is based on what you have it insured for. If somebody hit you ...well then...get legal advise.....
I think my truck is worth at least $3000.00. However after a recent accident the Ins Co gave me a check for $900.00.
I took them to court ...and Proved the value of the vehicle Above their estimate including the stereo, custom wheels etc.....I had every recipt since day one. The judge ruled that my vehicle was in fact "execptional". Pay up or replace it with a truck of equal condition and value .....
Bottom line ... I won a Substantial settlement and they paid court costs.
Neumann .....in your case, Show them every piece of paper you have. You just may get enough to get it fixed...
In the future have the car appraised at actual value...the premiums will be higher ....But now you have the proper coverage...

I have friends with classic cars, and others with high perfomance cars with thousands in them for upgrades. Without an appraisal getting more than book value is tough to prove EVEN with receipts if you deal with your own insurance company. Do a web search for private autombile appraisers in your area. In the case above if his car was indeed in exceptional shape the higher end value may be possible to recover if he had it appraised, and documented. The highest value he is looking for is for a car nearly in factory delivered shape. This is hard to prove without the appraisal done and the photgraphic proof in the form of a small portfolio on his car for want of a better description. A private appraisal is just another tool to help protect you from a total loss. My 1987 Mustang has thousands in parts for new balanced motor, aluminum radiator, ported aluminum heads, cam, roller rockers, injectors, suspension mods, disc brake conversion, 31 spline Moser axles, custom body work and much more. I just had the new factory floor pans installed, new front seats with harnesses, new front 1/4 panels, Cervinis hood and body kit and more. The book value for a 1987 Mustang is around $2,700. But with my receipts I can easily prove that my car is worth far more than that amount. As the other person stated you will pay more for car insurance but the risks and headaches of spending months fighting with them in court is offset and well worth it to me. If you have your car already appaised for the actual value of your car and are paying insurance for that amount it is FAR easier to collect for damage if your car is stolen for parts, or damaged in an accident. Does this help any? Below is one link. I have others and you can search in your own area for independent appraisers who can do it for you for a fee. John

http://autoloss.com/insurance.htm?OVRAW=Auto%20Appraisers&OVKEY=auto%20appraiser&OVMTC=standard

I forgot to add that Allstate would not care if you did this. They and all insurance companies however would be the happiest if people did not have their cars appraised for higher fair replacement value higher than their lower book vehicle valuation. They should not restrict you on driving the car unlike an Antique car with antique plates that is only driven on weekends if that is what you meant. John

If you have your car appraised and then insured for more than fair market value you are purchasing and indemnity as a separate policy. The $$ are the difference between FMV and AV. This is no different than buying stop loss coverage on a vehicle. Stop loss pay the difference of what you owe the bank on a car versus it’s fair market value. Once this coverage is bound you will not have any legal hassles. The second policy kicks in regardless of fault, and it’s up to that insurance carrier to make subrogation demands if they feel its warranted

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BENZ THERE DONE THAThttp://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...c/progress.gif
15 VW Passat TDI
00 E420
98 E300 DT
97 E420 Donor Car - NEED PARTS? PM ME!
97 S500
97 E300D
86 Holden Jackaroo Turbo D
86 300SDL
(o\|/o)

My day job is being an insurance agent with Va Farm Bureau. I have many clients who have classic or restored cars insured through me. What we have them do is get an appraisal from a body shop and give us a few pictures of the car. We then put an endorsement on their policy to cover the car for the "stated amount" value of the appraisal. There is minimal cost to do this and it establishes the value of the car prior to any loss and makes dealing w/ a claim much more favorable for them.

Their are companies that sell agreed value insurance policy on classic or collector cars. This would be a great solution except then I couldn't drive the SDL 24/7 during the summer. I also use it for work. In another 3-4 years I will probably get a policy like that.

Lets put it this way, after I paint it this year I will have about $18k worth of PARTS (not labor) into this thing. So it will be an above average car by far, probably in the condition that a 2-3 year old W126 would be.

So I would like to get an appraisal done after the body work. Now say the appraiser says it is worth $7k. Can I go to Allstate and adjust my coverage?

I also have a 3in binder full of receipts detailing everything to the last cent.

Thanks for the link.

__________________
1999 SL500
1969 280SE
2023 Ram 1500
2007 Tiara 3200

Thanks to everyone for their suggestions and input. I have some good values to go by. I'll make a decision on where to take it in the next few days. The shop in a town that a trusted place recommended is also a "service first" shop with my insurance co., which is State Farm. That means the shop is authorized to do the appraisal for State Farm instead of SF having to send out a separate appraiser.

Does anyone see any issues with a shop like that?

They come recommended from a high end used car store that I have bought from in the past. His brother also has a shop that caters to Brumos Mercedes and Porsche.

Anyone have any body shop suggestions in the Jacksonville, FL area?

We don't restrict the usage of the vehicle just because you insure it for a stated value. You can drive it all you want, you don't need to get antique tags or anything like that.

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85 300 D TURBO 145,000 mi "liesel" (the hot chick in sound of music)

Who is "we"? Please PM me if you work for an insurance company. An agreed value policy with no restrictions on where and how much I drive would be very interesting.

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1999 SL500
1969 280SE
2023 Ram 1500
2007 Tiara 3200