|
|
|
#1
|
|||
|
|||
resurrecting 220d from 3 year sleep
Bought an older restoration 71 220d. Looks great and runs strong, but since getting it a number of break downs have occurred. Fuel lines cracked, steering coupling gave out, couple of other odd ball minor annoyances.
Last night while on the interstate, the clutch went to the floor and stayed there. No pedal at all. I put more fluid in, and got some pedal and limped on home in first, too scared to try and ship. Any ideas of what the likely culprit is? Seems like I have problems with everything that is rubber on the car. Are there parts in the clutch system that are rubber and likely to give out? What other problems should I anticipate with a car that has been sitting that long? Thanks |
#2
|
||||
|
||||
the clutch
is probably not too hard to fix. did you check the fluid level before adding? was it dry? bleeding a clutch is extremely difficult. but not expensive.
the other problems i have no expertise in. but there is nothing that is rocket science on a 220. just a really high quality simple car to work on. good luck tom w
__________________
[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC] ..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis. |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
clutch
In addition to ensuring there is no air in hydraulic system, the other two failures are the clutch master cylinder located at the clutch pedal and the clutch slave cylinder located at the bell housing.
|
#4
|
||||
|
||||
If the system dumps all the fluid, then slave cylinder is probly the culprit, a cheap part at less than $50. But if it was me, I'd replace the rubber hydraulic hose on the clutch line that wraps around the bell housing too. I've seen these hoses become porous where they wont leak fluid but allow air to seep inside.
Then get the clutch and brake system professionally bled and flushed with new DOT4 fluid, assuming you're not familiar with reverse bleeding the clutch or dont want to hassle with time consuming total hydraulic system flush and bleed. And next time you lose the clutch, start out in 2nd after shutting down the engine and adding fluid. It will be better than riding first gear all the way home. Other problem rubbers include ALL fuel lines, sub-frame bushings, driveshaft flex discs, front and rear windshield gaskets and muffler hangers. 1971 220D is one helluva fine vehicle, you're lucky to find one in decent rust-free condition. Hell, I'd trade my 1983 240D 4-spd for one of them any day of the week. Last edited by 300SDog; 02-26-2006 at 01:18 PM. |
#5
|
||||
|
||||
I remember riding to kindergarden school in one of the early 70's diesels. A fond memory indeed.
__________________
1981 300D 147k 1998 VW Jetta Tdi 320k 2001 Dodge Ram 2500 141k 1979 300D 234k (sold) 1984 300D "Astor" 262k(sold) Mercedes How-To and Repair Pictorials I love the smell of diesel smoke in my hair |
Bookmarks |
|
|