Franz Oil filter on ebay - Page 3 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

kmaysob · #31 03-06-2006, 11:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Matt SD300

Cool!

Please spend some time and do a search on "BYPASS FILTERS"

I think you will be amazed how they not only clean the oil..but also extend how long oil additives last!...Its pretty cool

when people seem to think that the oil will last for 100,000 miles by just adding oil i can tell you bs!

Matt SD300 · #32 03-07-2006, 12:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kmaysob

when people seem to think that the oil will last for 100,000 miles by just adding oil i can tell you bs!

WHO SAID 100,000 miles...TRY A MILLION MILES WITHOUT A OIL CHANGE! Ok more like 400,000+ miles

The only one full of B.S is YOU!

SAD.. BUT THATS A FACT!

Or YOU can prove me wrong! And I'll be THE IDIOT & A LYER!

Please post 10 links "research papers" that say "BYPASS FILTERS DONT "...increase how long one can run oil WITHOUT ENGINE DAMAGE & that all that's needed is one do a oil analysis/filter changes & to replace the oil that's lost by the filter change to replenish oil additives.

http://avt.inel.gov/pdf/oilbypass/oilfilter_qtr7_04.pdf

Palangi · #33 03-07-2006, 12:06 AM

Dood....... Grow up

jpchleapas · #34 03-07-2006, 01:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Matt L

Thanks for the Frantz link. I'm still waiting for information on any system that uses something other than toilet paper, even though the elements would be much more expensive. If anyone knows, please speak up.

Where did you get your pre-oiler?

Hi Matt. I got it here at the link below. It works great in my Mustang. When funds allow in the spring I want to add one to the 300SD. I think it is great that the I can watch my oil pressure climb to over 50 psi before I crank the motor over in my Mustang. I smile at a lot of folks I know personally who spend over $10K for go fast parts and then balk at just over $560 to protect their custom motors. I imagine the Pre-Luber made especially for turbo diesel applictions would benefit our MB turbo cars the most. Mine in my mustang now cycles on for about full minute at shut down automatically. Same for the initial start up. With the removal of my EGR in our 300sd for test purposes only

that might be the place to have the additional bypass oil filter dump filtered oil back into the diesel engine. As for the preluber install I will let my gifted mechanic friend help me out with that correct placement. I do know I had one jerk who drilled a hole in the wrong part (baffle area) of my expensive 7+ quart Canton oil pan in my Mustang for the Pre-Luber. So the pre-luber while circulating some oil was just not building enough oil pressure at start up. We ended up plugging that hole, and then drilling into the sump area for it to work properly. These pre-lubers and add on oil filters will work only as good as the people who install them.. I never used the feature of the pre-luber to change my oil so far. My mustang comes out of the body shop next month where it has been sleeping and being rebuilt over the last 1.5 years. I am going to add the Frantz type filters for my transmission and the oil system when it gets warmer. Then I will use Amsoil synthetic motor and transmission oils. I will send samples out for testing at 10K miles to see how it is doing for my peace of mind. I will use the first synthetic motor oil change and then replace it after 3,000 miles. This is to get rid of the crud that will be releasing from going to synthetic motor oil. My transmission has fresh synthetic fluid now in it. When the add on filter is added there it will give me an excuse to have the complete spring kit installed at the same time, since the pan will be comin off then anyway. The question is how and where does one get rid of a 6 pound roll of oil soaked TP from a Frantz? I will see if the local Jiffylube that takes our used motor oil now can do it and dump it with their old used oil filters for recycling. I am not a green person but I do not want to just dump these in a plastic bag and send it out with the trash at the curb either.

Perhaps if there is enough interest in the Pre-Luber we could organize a group purchase to save some money if 10 or more people buy one..

http://www.pre-luber.com/Automotive.htm

#35 03-07-2006, 02:12 AM

Please people, we are (almost) all adults here. Lets stop the finger pointing and name calling.

...anyway. My main desire for a bypass filter is to get as much soot and sub 10micron junk as possible. yes, the OE filter has a bypass in it but it's not the ideal media. Some use cotton waste that is PURE cr@p and others use twine/string. Those are better but the TP filters are more dense and can get the sub 1micron junk out (soot).

Most OEM's don't have one because it adds extra cost to the build, is a few more parts to stock and is one more filter to change during a service.

Now, going 100K miles on the "same" oil is very excessive to save $90 a year. Changing 1Q oil in a 9Q system is NOT going to rplenish all the additives you need to go over 10,000 miles. 5,000 miles, mabye.

timmyd · #36 03-07-2006, 10:27 AM

Most of the reason the Navy gets away with not changing the oil is that their equipment, in subs and ships is not run the same way as a car, truck, etc. There are very few cold start conditions that minimize the soot in the oil. Most of the soot comes from the start before the engine is up to temp and burning cleanly. They may start up the system, be it diesel, hydraulic, etc and it will run for a month or so. I usually shut off my engine to save fuel when I go into the store, let alone at work or at night.

I believe bypass filters have their place, and would love to put one in my vehicles, but I don't think the cost warrants the savings in the long run. I use John Deere Plus 50 oil in my pickups and tractors and change regularly. Never a problem there. The Benzes may get some this summer, but right now I have Wal-Mart 15-40 in them to do a couple quick changes and clean them as much as I can.

Each to his own!

Matt SD300 · #37 03-07-2006, 10:56 AM

Quote:...Now, going 100K miles on the "same" oil is very excessive to save $90 a year. Changing 1Q oil in a 9Q system is NOT going to rplenish all the additives you need to go over 10,000 miles. 5,000 miles, mabye

Let me help you take the blinders off...I change MY TP filters every 2000 miles (cost 50 cents) plus add a quart & half of oil . The extra 1/2 quart of is for the loss of oil due to the engine using it. I change the OE filter at 10,000 miles(need to add another quart)

Total oil replenished in 10,000 miles = 8 1/2 quarts

TP filter cost = $2.50

I don't need to jack up the car & crawl under it

Plus MY oil filter changes take about 3mins. (total time in 10,000 15mins.)with far less mess & hassle. And the engine always has CLEAN OIL

bgkast · #38 03-07-2006, 01:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jpchleapas

Perhaps if there is enough interest in the Pre-Luber we could organize a group purchase to save some money if 10 or more people buy one..

http://www.pre-luber.com/Automotive.htm

I might be interested, but $560 is a bit to rich for me.

jpchleapas · #39 03-07-2006, 02:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bgkast

I might be interested, but $560 is a bit to rich for me.

Yes but if we could save $100 or more on the price by buying 10 to 25 of these at once, then it might then be worth if for the folks here who want to reduce bearing wear at start up. The reason all cars do not come with things like the Pre-Luber and Frantz type oil filter in facory equiped car systems is that we would all be buying a fewer new cars because our engines would be lasting for too many years. John

bgkast · #40 03-07-2006, 03:20 PM

Very true. I would drive my diesel allot more if I could greatly reduce the damage caused by start up. With synthetic oil and a pre-luber I could drive this car for the rest of my life on the same engine (If my SVO system doesn't clog it with carbon that is

) If that does happened I plan to drop in a new MB crate motor and switching to bio-d, then I would be even more interested in the pre-luber. A new engine would go forever with these two pieces of technology. Still going to have to change the oil though.

Edit: it looks like the 10 amp light duty pump would fit our needs just fine for $498. If we can get a deal going let me know.
This seems like a fairly high price for a simple piece of equipment. All that would be needed to make one for your self would be the adapters to the pressure sender and oil drain plug, and the timer which I'm sure a electronics expert could easily put together. I'll work on this more after I finish up my current project.
Is there a better place to tap into than the pressure sender?

240Joe · #41 03-07-2006, 07:11 PM

I certainly believe the franz filter will allow you to go forever without changing oil, if as was mentioned above, the additives are being replentished.

The problem I see with adding this filter is purely its cost. Given that our engines already have a bypass filter built in, the most straight forward way to save money is to just extend the OCI.

If you don't have EGR, and I suspect most of us don't, with decent fuel quality (cetane>45), and mostly highway miles, I doubt that you'll overload a diesel rated oil until you are pushing 40 or 50k miles. Please note I'm not talking about the 2% soot limit that has been thrown around this board. Modern synthetic diesel oils can handle 4 to 6% and still perform their function. Given that you're replacing oil when you change out the filter, and to top off, I think practically you would never overload the oil with soot, and never run out of additives either with the above conditions.

I've been running 15kmiles oil and filter changes on my 83 300D using Mann filters and Mobil 1 T&SUV 5w40.

I'm now going to 15kmile filter changes only and every 30kmiles I'll dump the oil. Many people on this board think I'll lose the engine but I seriously doubt it. Chances are the car will be taken off the road by something that has absolutely nothing to do with oil.

Joe

MTUpower · #42 03-07-2006, 07:52 PM

I had a Gulf Coast Filters bypass filter on my now sold '80TD. Both of my oil analysis's said I had less than .75% soot after 12 K miles and there were no missing additives. I changed the toilet paper filter every 3K and the main filter after 10K. Only added what oil was need to keep the level in the "green" zone. You guys can talk all you want but there is only one proof- OA.

apache · #43 03-07-2006, 09:26 PM

What is a typical type of installation of Frantz/Gulfcoast filter on a Benz? What additional parts or modifications are needed? Thanks

#44 03-08-2006, 12:59 AM

If the valve cover is too high for the drain, it's possible to install a port on the lower oil pan or tap a t-fitting into the oil seperator drain tube.