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#1
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E300D w210 motor mount replacement
My 96 E300D (108k miles) has been vibrating at idle and especially when in reverse. My wife has commented the old girl is falling apart.
I've read the threads on motor mounts and thought I'd replace them. 2 new mounts were 200 bucks at the stealer. I put them in today which took about 1.5 hours and one modified tool. The exhaust side mount top bolt is not accessable with a regular socket. It was too tight for me to loosen with a box end long wrench even with penetrating oil. I cut down in length a 17mm craftsman socket to minimum length for the bolt's head on my lathe although a cutoff disc tool would work too. I raised the motor up about 1.5" with the padded jack to get the wasted ones out. Torques: top bolts 55 nm, lower bolts 40 nm. The vibration is cured!! It is almost silent at idle. Tools needed: 14 mm socket, short 17mm socket, regular 17mm socket,, long ratchet, jack and stands. Steve |
#2
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Excellent how many miles do you have on your W210?
I was hoping to make it to 100,000 before I did that. Thanks,
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raMBow 1999 E300DT Obsydian Black Metallic, Heated Full Leather Parchment options, E2, K2, 136,000+, best 36.5 mpg - GP's 12-04 & 11-12 Zero Stuck 2010 Honda Odyssey - The BrideMobile - best 26.5 (2) 2005 Honday Accord- (1 -Corporate 1 - Personal) - 110,000 4-cyl 30mpg 2000 VW Golf GLS TDI, Upsolute Chip (sold to Brother, now 300+k on it) 48.5 mpg like clock work 1987 Honda CRX HF - Sold 87,000 always over 50 mpg Max 67 mpg |
#3
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Did a 98 300D today. The mounts on the diesel are fully accessible, the only caution was to watch the fan blade when jacking up the engine. Had to slightly bend the blades a bit forward to clear shroud.
The upper side bolts were 16 mm which wasn't in my set of sockets. The vehicle had just over 100,000 miles and the drivers side mount was really bad, leaking with torn rubber. The passanger side had no leaks, only the beginnings of the rubber cracking. The transmission mount was fine and I only changed it because I had the part. (Dealer told me I had to replace all three - but they couldn't have seen it must just do it as a preventive maintenance extra income thing) The car runs incredibly smooth now. It is like new. Also, even though it was shaking and vibrating at idle (not so much in N, and hardly any in R) I couldn't see the engine move much when I watched it in P, as others had suggested.
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1991 300D 172,000 (totaled) 1998 E300 Turbodiesel 82,500 |
#4
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I have 120K on my W210 and Gilly helped me with it. Didn't need any modified tools.
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01 Ford Excursion Powerstroke 99 E300 Turbodiesel 91 Vette with 383 motor 05 Polaris Sportsman 800 EFI 06 Polaris Sportsman 500 EFI 03 SeaDoo GTX SC Red 03 SeaDoo GTX SC Yellow 04 Tailgator 21 ft Toy Hauler 11 Harley Davidson 883 SuperLow |
#5
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You can rest a coin on top of my engine, on its edge, and it won't fall over when idling or even when revving slowly.
Before I did the engine mounts, it was like a washing machine with a broken weight |
#6
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must replace both sides?
My left/driver's side mount is leaking, but not the right/exhaust side. Can I replace just one, or must I do both? Car is a 96 E300 w/ 145K.
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#7
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I'd do them both. They collapse slowly and when the first new one is put in it will kick the engine up 1/2" higher than it was before transfering more weight to, and hastening the demise of, the other.
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Terry Allison N. Calif. & Boca Chica, Panama 09' E320 Bluetec 77k (USA) 09' Hyundai Santa Fe Diesel 48k (S.A.) |
#8
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Done
I've done my now a while back just before 100,000 pretty easy job. Seems like I posted about it somewhere else here, less than an hour and a half start to finish.
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raMBow 1999 E300DT Obsydian Black Metallic, Heated Full Leather Parchment options, E2, K2, 136,000+, best 36.5 mpg - GP's 12-04 & 11-12 Zero Stuck 2010 Honda Odyssey - The BrideMobile - best 26.5 (2) 2005 Honday Accord- (1 -Corporate 1 - Personal) - 110,000 4-cyl 30mpg 2000 VW Golf GLS TDI, Upsolute Chip (sold to Brother, now 300+k on it) 48.5 mpg like clock work 1987 Honda CRX HF - Sold 87,000 always over 50 mpg Max 67 mpg |
#9
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1999 E300D
Guys, is it feasible to do this mount replacement using Rhino Ramps. I've never been terribly comfortable using jack stands on these cars when I'm under the car... Thx. |
#10
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I don't see why not. You'll need a floor jack that is tall enough to lift the engine ~1/2" while its up on the ramps.
FYI - I always put my jack stands under the unibody frame ~8" inward of the jack pads and I don't extend them any higher than needed for a given job. I also usually leave the floor jack extended up under it somewhere too unless using it for something else.
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Terry Allison N. Calif. & Boca Chica, Panama 09' E320 Bluetec 77k (USA) 09' Hyundai Santa Fe Diesel 48k (S.A.) |
#11
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Quote:
I've got two floor jacks, but will need one to lift the engine. I'd rather have as much space to work as possible...that's what I'd rather not use the Rhino Ramps unless absolutely necessary. Thanks again (I've got all the parts incl. trans mount and new shifter bushing pcs.) |
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