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Gear reduction starter for W126 diesel?
Does anyone know where I can get a gear reduction starter for an '87 300SDL?
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1987 300SDL 167k 1992 Volvo 740 140k 1990 Volvo 740 250k 1989 Volvo 240 269k Anyone want to trade an old Volvo for an '87 300sdl? |
#2
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Ive heard they sell them here > http://www.mean-green.com/products/starter.html
But, that may only be for the 617, not the 603? Someone? |
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1987 300SDL 167k 1992 Volvo 740 140k 1990 Volvo 740 250k 1989 Volvo 240 269k Anyone want to trade an old Volvo for an '87 300sdl? |
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So are these actually a good item? My starter probably has a couple years left (it still does ok in the cold) but when the time comes I'd consider one like that company sells if it would be an improvement. I take it all the advantage is in more consistent cranking/speed? and the lack of huge current draw on the battery? Explain please.
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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life- '15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800) '17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k) '09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k) '13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k) '01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km) '16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k) |
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1987 300SDL 167k 1992 Volvo 740 140k 1990 Volvo 740 250k 1989 Volvo 240 269k Anyone want to trade an old Volvo for an '87 300sdl? |
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Well, I think that it has a motor about 1/3 the power of a normal starter but has a gear reduction of 4.4, and the smaller motor is a lot faster, so it more than makes up for the speed reduction, and the overall output of the assembly is probably consistantly faster than using a direct drive starter. The smaller but faster motor means a lot less power is drawn off the battery, so it can run longer and faster, especially in the cold. I wonder what it sounds like, its probably pretty cool. I'll have to consider getting one in the future.....
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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life- '15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800) '17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k) '09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k) '13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k) '01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km) '16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k) |
#8
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reduction drive starter
My guess/opinion is that with the same battery you are going to get slower cranking speeds with the reduction gear starter. Generally, reduction gear starters are used in applications where the engine is very hard to turn over, that is, more pistons, more compression, etc. My opinion is that if the engineers called for a direct drive starter in the new car, then that is what you need. A new or high quality rebuild (rebuilds are a gamble; they are generally bench-tested under no or low load conditions) direct drive is the way to go, in my opinon.
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#9
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1987 300SDL 167k 1992 Volvo 740 140k 1990 Volvo 740 250k 1989 Volvo 240 269k Anyone want to trade an old Volvo for an '87 300sdl? |
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The only reduction gear cars/trucks I have had are all Mopar's (Dodge) from the 60's. The V-8's were all relatively large displacement engines with high compression ratios (my '63 Polara 500 383 had 11:1 c/r). So a reduction gear starter was used to turn them over; but, it's a tradeoff, they actually would turn over quicker if they had direct drive starters, but the greater torque with the reduction gear ensured they'd turn over fast enough to start. Without the reduction gearing if the motor didn't fire fairly quickly the battery would run down pretty quick. So, in my opinion, stick with the starter engineered for your particular car, have a good battery / connections, engine in tune. Diesels do like to be spun fast to start and the reduction gearing slows the spin of the flywheel.
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#11
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What if the motor in the reduction starter spins VERY fast, and is actually giving an overall output from the assembly thats faster than a stock starter?
__________________
-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life- '15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800) '17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k) '09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k) '13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k) '01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km) '16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k) |
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#13
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more torque at near stall speeds than a direct drive starter....a DC motor isn't nearly as efficient at slow speeds...even with a reduction it CAN spin faster that a direct motor..OEM didn't do it becasue these are more complex and therefore more costly to produce. Remember Bean counters rule the roost these days. why pay extra for a gear reduction unit if a direct will do the job acceptibly.
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Proud owner of .... 1971 280SE W108 1979 300SD W116 1983 300D W123 1975 Ironhead Sportster chopper 1987 GMC 3/4 ton 4X4 Diesel 1989 Honda Civic (Heavily modified) --------------------- Section 609 MVAC Certified --------------------- "He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you." - Friedrich Nietzsche |
#14
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Chrysler had a gear reduction starter for years. You could tell it was a Chrysler a block away.
Never could understand how the engines actually got running. The cranking speed seemed unbelievably slow............... |
#15
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I have to laugh at all the comments from those that never had the experince of a geared starter!
I have a White 2.45 tractor made in Japan that had two batteries in parralell. It always turned real slow in cold weather. I had to rebuild it several times. The brushes were $12 each from the dealer. My local alternater shop talked me into buying a gear reduction starter that cost me less than what the solenoid on the original starter cost. I could not believe how fast it cranks now. So I do not believe that the manufacters back in the old days always did the best choices on what to use. Tom |
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