617 Engine Swap - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

RSCarey · #1 03-22-2006, 10:42 PM

Over spring break, I will attempt to transplant a newly rebuilt motor from an '82 300 D Turbo into my '83 300 D Turbo.

I've scrounged a cherry picker, read up on the forum, a Hayes manual, and the MBZ repair CD; but I have never done this type of job before.

Anybody have any tips or tricks or advice to pass on?

What's the hardest part of the job?

RSCarey

t walgamuth · #2 03-22-2006, 10:48 PM

just pace yourself and be meticulous. if you get tired and start making mistakes, take a break and get back your patience.

it is nothing special but there are maybe more things to unhook and rehook than in most cars. it will take a lot longer than you think and when you feel you are half done you will be only 20% done so dont get discouraged.

the trickies thing maybe is the oil cooler. it is very fragile aluminum. when unhooking the lines be sure to use two wrenches. it is very easy to fracture the fittings off it. and be sure to be meticulous in remounting it beside your radiator cause if you dont get it just right it will chafe and wear a hole in it and you will pump all your engine oil out on the ground in short order and ruin your motor. so proceed with caution there.

good luck

tom w

sleepydan · #3 03-22-2006, 11:15 PM

I presume you meant R&R motor block. I am by far not a mercedes tech but I do work on a lot of different equipment... here is a few things to keep in mind ...are you able to keep out of the weather?,,,got good lighting...mark ALL vacuam and electrial lines and hoses...try to keep bolts with brackets dont be afraid to make little drawings or take some pictures...its really amazeing how quickly you can forget which way it came out of that little hole under that bunch of wires under that bracket...if you can clean the engine and transmission before starting the job it helps...I hope this helps cause its the little things that can make a person go crazy...good luck let me know how it goes.

popscat · #4 03-23-2006, 03:02 AM

just did one pull engine and tranny together get you a adjustable spanner to lift the engine rusted tranny crossmember bolts will bug you .take your time as it is quite a chore if you have no help. you really need the mb manual the haynes is a pile of ..it. follow the mb guide for less trouble.

engatwork · #5 03-23-2006, 06:02 AM

Pull the engine/tranny together (loosen the torque converter bolts prior to removing from the car) and when the engine/tranny is in the air roll the car out from under it. Don't try to move the engine/tranny while it is hanging in the air.

RSCarey · #6 03-23-2006, 07:15 AM

About how long has it taken those of you who have performed the surgery?

I intend to use a digital camera to photograph every connection.

What's the advantage of taking the tranny out with the motor?

RSCarey

Pete Burton · #7 03-23-2006, 08:27 AM

taking them out together means not having to disconnect (and reconnect

)trans from down under. This includes tranny coolant lines and starter. Several of us here who have been there a few times have found it easier to pull them together as suggested in the FSM. Here's a thread with 2 pics of my last "pull"...http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=108299&highlight=turnbuckle

rhodes2010 · #8 03-23-2006, 11:49 AM

I did engine and trans together (tried to separate - bad idea).
I left starter in car.
Do Not Let Driveshaft separate. Put a paint stripe on it, just in case.
It should not come out at all, just in case....

Remove Radiator, oil cooler, manifolds and turbo, makes it easier.

Use a load leveler (Harbor Freight $22). Engine trans combo goes
in and out at about 45 degree angle. Put load leveler crank handle toward rear of car (I made the mistake of putting the handle toward the front).

TIME: Working mostly alone I did the pull in 5 hours or less.
Spend some time cleaning up the engine bay, double check the motor mounts.

For me it was a two day job, pulled one engine day one (the 5 hours of hard work).
Then cleaned and prepped old motor (easy work).
Pulled second car into garage and got it ready for the pull on day two.
Day two: pulled target car bad engine, put aside and loaded up replacement engine.
On day three we were driving.

I ended up raising rear end as high as my jack stands would allow
during insertion, this allowed less angle at the engine hoist end.
And like they said... take breaks to get your patience back. Be careful.

Good Luck !
You can do it !!!

#9 03-23-2006, 04:01 PM

Steam clean both cars first or life will suck or take to self serve car wash with some ramps and clean top and bottom if you skip this step bad bad yuk miserable no fun job. Pull Trans and engine as a unit but be sure to remove the six torque converter bolts while the engine is in the car unless you are junking the engine and transmission then it is not as important.. If you have a cheap cherry picker it wont lift the tail of the transmission over the front clip shove plywood under the transmission tail have helper lift tail pull hard on hoist it will pull out. You cannot mark to many wires hoses and linkage parts use hang tags and nail polish. Most important get plenty of zip lock bags mark them 1 thru 22 each step in the manual put the hardware in the bag numbered for that step then put bags neatly in a box in order as you remove parts so it is a breeze putting it back together. There will be some things that are different from one car to the other keep every thing labeled bagged tagged take at least 25 pictures write at least 3 pages of notes and it is a weekend project with time to clean and fix every thing up. You need 10lbs cat liter no matter how well you drain fluids some more always spill out and you can’t have to many rags. When you separate the engine and transmission you need to have blocks of wood under them so they come apart parallel with out hanging the transmission at an angle by the torque converter as you loosen bolts or you risk a rear main seal leak I hope that makes sense. NO beer until it is all done and the mess is cleaned up then try scotch instead you earned it.
DS

RSCarey · #10 03-23-2006, 06:16 PM

All your helpful hints make me want to get started right away.

What I heard:

Pull engine and tranny apart as a combo

Get HFreight load leveler

Label and photograph everything

Go slow. Be patient.

I wish I could buy you all a beer!

RSCarey

rhodes2010 · #11 03-23-2006, 06:28 PM

What part of the country are you in ?

RSCarey · #12 03-23-2006, 06:44 PM

I'll look you up next time I drive up the coast.

What parts--hoses, seals, gaskets--would you change before the donor motor goes into the car?

RSCarey

sailor15015 · #13 03-23-2006, 07:13 PM

I heard a reference twice in this tread to removing the torque converter bolts while the engine and tranny are still in the car. Is this so they can be separated? If so why does it have to be done with the assembly still in the car? I'm asking because I'm going to be doing this job soon and I plan to take the tranny off of the engine for overhaul but I want to pull them as a unit. Thanks.

engatwork · #14 03-23-2006, 07:29 PM

I think it is easier to remove the torque converter bolts while the engine/tranny is in the car. I use the crankshaft bolt to turn the engine when loosening/removing these fasteners and it is alot more secure with everthing in place. Another thing you want to do while the engine is in the car is to loosen the crankshaft bolt if you plan on pulling the harmonic balancer.

#15 03-23-2006, 07:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by engatwork

I think it is easier to remove the torque converter bolts while the engine/tranny is in the car. I use the crankshaft bolt to turn the engine when loosening/removing these fasteners and it is alot more secure with everthing in place. Another thing you want to do while the engine is in the car is to loosen the crankshaft bolt if you plan on pulling the harmonic balancer.

That is why I do it that way also. I did it out of the car the first time big mistake
DHS