WHHRRRRRRUUUUULLLLL noise on right hand turns - Page 3 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

macthomas · #31 06-19-2006, 02:24 PM

Well,... about 3k miles and all was good....WAS good...
Took a two hour trip and on the way home I started to get a new strange noise... sounds like a whhhrrrrruuuullll sound, but with some grinding too.

Sounds like left front (that is the bearing I repacked that stopped the sound before).

I think I will replace the front rotors and bearings. Last brake change I saw the rotors looked a little rough anyway. Looks like a pretty easy job...

Any advice would be appreciated!

R

Mustang_man298 · #32 06-20-2006, 01:43 AM

A trick I learned long ago doing wheel bearings, after several years of trying to drive seals out etc, was to remove the retaining nut and washer(s), remove the outer bearing, then thread the nut back on until it has all threads made, then (with the brake caliper removed) grab hold of the rotor and carefully guide the nut through the outer race,then firmly and sharply yank it outward, might take a couple tries, but once you get good at it you'll get it first hit. it doesn't damage the bearing, and because you are driving the seal out with the bearing carrier, the seal also does not get damaged/deformed and can be reused if all inspects to be good. When you set the bearings, run the nut up by hand until it snugs up, turn the rotor a few times to push the grease into its happy places, then hand tighten again, give it a good snug this time by hand, not with a wrench or pliers, it doesnt take much. Tighten the locking bolt in the nut, spin it a few times to make sure its free (the grease will cause a slight dragging effect) if it feels good, grasp the rotor top and bottom and make sure you don't feel any "clunking" when you wiggle it, no clunks mean it's adjusted right, ready to roll.
-Chris

Brian Carlton · #33 06-20-2006, 04:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mustang_man298

When you set the bearings, run the nut up by hand until it snugs up, turn the rotor a few times to push the grease into its happy places, then hand tighten again, give it a good snug this time by hand, not with a wrench or pliers, it doesnt take much. Tighten the locking bolt in the nut, spin it a few times to make sure its free (the grease will cause a slight dragging effect) if it feels good, grasp the rotor top and bottom and make sure you don't feel any "clunking" when you wiggle it, no clunks mean it's adjusted right, ready to roll.

While you are welcome to do anything you wish with your own vehicle, I note that your procedure is contrary to the FSM and will definitely result in a bearing preload. Tapered roller bearings do not take kindly to such a preload over a long distance and you would be well advised to read and understand the FSM before setting clearance (.0005") in these bearings.

"No clunks" does not mean it's "adjusted right".

Rick, it appears that you are on your way to a bearing failure. If the bearings were overtightened, per a similar approach as the post above this one, I would not be surprised. You really need a slight bit of play in the bearing. In fact, a little too much play........so that you can feel the slightest movement in the rotor........would be better than a preload.

Remember, again, the spec is .0005" clearance.......and you do not want to go below .0000" under any circumstances.

Replacement of the rotor won't solve the problem.

macthomas · #34 06-21-2006, 10:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brian Carlton

While you are welcome to do anything you wish with your own vehicle, I note that your procedure is contrary to the FSM and will definitely result in a bearing preload. Tapered roller bearings do not take kindly to such a preload over a long distance and you would be well advised to read and understand the FSM before setting clearance (.0005") in these bearings.

"No clunks" does not mean it's "adjusted right".

Rick, it appears that you are on your way to a bearing failure. If the bearings were overtightened, per a similar approach as the post above this one, I would not be surprised. You really need a slight bit of play in the bearing. In fact, a little too much play........so that you can feel the slightest movement in the rotor........would be better than a preload.

Remember, again, the spec is .0005" clearance.......and you do not want to go below .0000" under any circumstances.

Replacement of the rotor won't solve the problem.

Thanks much!
When I repacked my bearings I think I tightened them down too much. I had followed the instructions someone here gave to tighten untill the roter was hard to turn and then back off 1/4 or 1/3 turn... Oh well I am still alive and bearings aren't to expensive.

I am going to change the rotors because they are worn. I figure while I have them off doing the bearings I might as well replace them too. My question is, do the roters come with the races already in them?

Thanks again.
Rick

87tdwagen · #35 06-21-2006, 10:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by macthomas

Thanks much!
When I repacked my bearings I think I tightened them down too much. I had followed the instructions someone here gave to tighten untill the roter was hard to turn and then back off 1/4 or 1/3 turn... Oh well I am still alive and bearings aren't to expensive.

I am going to change the rotors because they are worn. I figure while I have them off doing the bearings I might as well replace them too. My question is, do the roters come with the races already in them?

Thanks again.
Rick

Rick, the tightening process is generally correct, you want to tighten the bearing until you feel resistance in turning the rotor, resistance not imobility, then loosen a 1/4 turn and repeat this process (tightening, backing off, tightening again) at least five times, this will help in forcing the grease through the bearings, seat them and set the preload. Of course the best way is to measure endfloat and do it per the FSM but this is sometimes beyond the means of most backyard mechanics. The tightening loosening procedure works very well for most of us, I tend to average about 200k miles on bearing changes with this method. Do some research in the archieves and you will see similar agreement on this method as a best alternative to the specific FSM procedure.

As to new hubs, they will usually come bare, and you will have to install the races yourself. In order to do this I would recommend removing your old races off of the old rotor and use them to drive in the new races, same size and a perfect insulator as you either press or hammer them in.

Also I don't know if you have checked the other side bearing as well? I had a similar issue in my w124 a month ago, driving through twisty mountain roads was like right turn wurrrrrr, left turn smooooth....etc. I could have sworn it was my driver side bearing as this is where I thought most of the noise was eminating from, but on inspection it was fine, and the problem was actually in the passenger side bearing. Replaced it and smooth as glass again.

Good luck
Bill

Brian Carlton · #36 06-21-2006, 10:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by macthomas

I am going to change the rotors because they are worn. I figure while I have them off doing the bearings I might as well replace them too. My question is, do the roters come with the races already in them?

Thanks again.
Rick

Yes, a good idea.

A new outer race will come with the inner bearing. This race must be pressed into the hub. Freezing the race overnight will assist in this. However, you do need to move pretty quickly once you take it out of the freezer because it's fairly thin and will warm quickly.

The outer bearing has the combination of inner race, rollers, and outer race. Just make sure you polish the spindle and check to make sure the outer bearing will slip over the spindle. Do this before you go to install the rotor onto the spindle. Nothing more frustrating than watching the outer bearing get poked out of the hub onto the driveway.

macthomas · #37 06-21-2006, 11:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 87tdwagen

Rick, the tightening process is generally correct, you want to tighten the bearing until you feel resistance in turning the rotor, resistance not imobility, then loosen a 1/4 turn and repeat this process (tightening, backing off, tightening again) at least five times, this will help in forcing the grease through the bearings, seat them and set the preload. Of course the best way is to measure endfloat and do it per the FSM but this is sometimes beyond the means of most backyard mechanics. The tightening loosening procedure works very well for most of us, I tend to average about 200k miles on bearing changes with this method. Do some research in the archieves and you will see similar agreement on this method as a best alternative to the specific FSM procedure.

As to new hubs, they will usually come bare, and you will have to install the races yourself. In order to do this I would recommend removing your old races off of the old rotor and use them to drive in the new races, same size and a perfect insulator as you either press or hammer them in.

Also I don't know if you have checked the other side bearing as well? I had a similar issue in my w124 a month ago, driving through twisty mountain roads was like right turn wurrrrrr, left turn smooooth....etc. I could have sworn it was my driver side bearing as this is where I thought most of the noise was eminating from, but on inspection it was fine, and the problem was actually in the passenger side bearing. Replaced it and smooth as glass again.

Good luck
Bill

That is interesting... sounds just like the problem I had before. Slight right turn and I got the whurrrrr sound. After I repacked the driver side bearing it went away. I never looked at the passenger side. I think I over tightened the bearings when I repacked. I tighten it until I could barely move it and then backed it off...

... I think I will just replace both sides. Shotgun approach... Thanks for the advice!
R

macthomas · #38 06-21-2006, 11:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 87tdwagen

Rick, the tightening process is generally correct, you want to tighten the bearing until you feel resistance in turning the rotor, resistance not imobility, then loosen a 1/4 turn and repeat this process (tightening, backing off, tightening again) at least five times, this will help in forcing the grease through the bearings, seat them and set the preload. Of course the best way is to measure endfloat and do it per the FSM but this is sometimes beyond the means of most backyard mechanics. The tightening loosening procedure works very well for most of us, I tend to average about 200k miles on bearing changes with this method. Do some research in the archieves and you will see similar agreement on this method as a best alternative to the specific FSM procedure.

As to new hubs, they will usually come bare, and you will have to install the races yourself. In order to do this I would recommend removing your old races off of the old rotor and use them to drive in the new races, same size and a perfect insulator as you either press or hammer them in.

Also I don't know if you have checked the other side bearing as well? I had a similar issue in my w124 a month ago, driving through twisty mountain roads was like right turn wurrrrrr, left turn smooooth....etc. I could have sworn it was my driver side bearing as this is where I thought most of the noise was eminating from, but on inspection it was fine, and the problem was actually in the passenger side bearing. Replaced it and smooth as glass again.

Good luck
Bill

ONe other thing... How do I get the old races out?
Thanks
R

barry123400 · #39 06-21-2006, 11:24 AM

I always remove the races with a hammer and long enough punch from the other side of the rotor. There are cutouts in the back of the casting around the race for your punch to engage the edge of the race. Usually three of them but never really took the time to count them myself on all the different rotors. I usually alternate punches from cutout to cutout as the race is moving outward. Do not use a steel punch to install the new ones though as they might be damaged by it. I use a piece of brass. Using the pre freeze method at the same time when installing the new races seems like a great ideal as well even though I never have used it. A three jaw internal puller would work as well I guess for removal. But again I never have heard of anyone using one. .