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  #1  
Old 04-24-2006, 02:20 PM
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"all done" lasted one week

Found my keeper.
Got EVERYTHING working on my keeper.
Added a wvo setup to my keeper.
Put in new deck, amp and speakers.
Life was good....................................... for a week.
The cruise decided to go intermitten so I have searched .
I want to resolder the amp but where the heck is it?
90 350 sdl.

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  #2  
Old 04-24-2006, 02:47 PM
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The CC amp is right above your feet. Just unclip/screw the panal and you will see it.


Resoldering the amp is pretty pointless. I pulled mine apart, the connections can be tested with a meter. Don't see how they would break.

More likely then not you will need a rebuilt amp, about $200 a company called GDI does them. I don't have the website handy.

I suspect the circut card gets messed up somehow on these.
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  #3  
Old 04-24-2006, 03:10 PM
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Thanks.
I looked up there and didn't see a little box. (what's it look like? )
Cruise works fine sometimes, jerks at others and kicks back in when least expected...I thought a faulty connection.
$200...sounds like I'll be using foot cruise control...as I never get to go on any long trips...doesn't stop me from setting up my cars and bikes like I go 'touring' all the time!
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  #4  
Old 04-24-2006, 03:12 PM
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Did you remove the panal under the dash? The CC amp has a big plug sitting on top of it and is held to the firewall on a metal bracket? Block box says Bosch and some other stuff on it.
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  #5  
Old 04-24-2006, 03:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hatterasguy
Did you remove the panal under the dash? The CC amp has a big plug sitting on top of it and is held to the firewall on a metal bracket? Block box says Bosch and some other stuff on it.
Thanks!
One of the threads I read said it was a metal box so I didn't look for anything black.
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  #6  
Old 04-24-2006, 04:14 PM
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It's an aluminum box on a black bracket attached to the brake pedal attaching
bracket.
Pic is in post #6 of this thread:http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=117937&highlight=cruise+control
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  #7  
Old 04-24-2006, 04:55 PM
Craig
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hatterasguy
The CC amp is right above your feet. Just unclip/screw the panal and you will see it.


Resoldering the amp is pretty pointless. I pulled mine apart, the connections can be tested with a meter. Don't see how they would break.

More likely then not you will need a rebuilt amp, about $200 a company called GDI does them. I don't have the website handy.

I suspect the circut card gets messed up somehow on these.
This is the web site for GDL:

http://www.gdl-online.com/price1.html
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  #8  
Old 04-24-2006, 05:31 PM
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Cool I was looking for that link. My next project is sending my CC amp off to them for a rebuild.
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  #9  
Old 04-24-2006, 06:51 PM
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People have found that tightening the linkage can stop the "surging". You might want to try that first.
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  #10  
Old 04-24-2006, 09:09 PM
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Could you elaborate a little more on "tightening"? All my linkage moves nice and tightly with no play that I can detect but I do have some surging so I guess I've got some adjusting to do.
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  #11  
Old 04-25-2006, 09:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sailor15015
Could you elaborate a little more on "tightening"? All my linkage moves nice and tightly with no play that I can detect but I do have some surging so I guess I've got some adjusting to do.
what he said!!
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  #12  
Old 04-25-2006, 05:44 PM
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Check skinnerbox...

For turbo:

http://skinnerbox.steaky.org/Service/W123/w123CD2/Program/Engine/617/30-300.pdf

(Thanks Pat!)

It seems to lie in the last linkage rod in the chain that connects to the cruise actuator.
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  #13  
Old 04-25-2006, 07:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hatterasguy
Resoldering the amp is pretty pointless. I pulled mine apart, the connections can be tested with a meter. Don't see how they would break..
It's not that they break, they "go cold" after years of just conducting electricity in dirty environments.

I used to get cold solder joints on my main frame (telecom) all the time....you just heat it and let it get cool again...just like new after that and ready for 25 more years.

Lot cheaper than $200, as long as you are careful and don't cause problems with the PCB or components. Use a heat shrink on anything near where you are soldering, if possible.

I'm doing mine soon...I have one of those new soldering pens that get cold in seconds..
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  #14  
Old 04-25-2006, 08:52 PM
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I tested mine with a meter, they all conducted real nice.
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  #15  
Old 04-25-2006, 09:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fuzzball
It's not that they break, they "go cold" after years of just conducting electricity in dirty environments.

I used to get cold solder joints on my main frame (telecom) all the time....you just heat it and let it get cool again...just like new after that and ready for 25 more years.

Lot cheaper than $200, as long as you are careful and don't cause problems with the PCB or components. Use a heat shrink on anything near where you are soldering, if possible.

I'm doing mine soon...I have one of those new soldering pens that get cold in seconds..
I also resoldered mine in 45 minutes and it worked great.

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