Ugh - my 95 E300 started leaking today. It was on a big trip last week - filled up in WV, KY, and IN. Now it leaks...

Quick question for the experts - how big of a problem is this if I wait 10 days for it to be fixed? I called the dealer - and based on my schedule/their schedule/loaners, etc - it is a 10 day wait. It's currently only leaking a little (maybe a 1 ft diameter spot on my floor since it started)... Other than the mess and eventual decrease in mileage - is it hurting the car? is there a risk of a catastrophic failure leaving me stranded? My gut feel is 10 days isn't that big of a deal... but I don't know.

Thanks!

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1995 E300D - 225,000 miles - White Exterior, Grey Interior - original owner

You need to find out where that leak is on the engine before you can be advised if it's a big deal or not. Being stranded is not the time to find where the leak started.

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RRGrassi


70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car

13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete.

91 W124 300D Turbo replaced, Pressure W/G actuator installed. 210K

90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K

I took it to a radiator place thinking the radiator was leaking (shows the diesel is different than I'm used to), and the mechanic there said he thinks it's coming from where the injectors are. I don't know if he really knows, it's just the comment he made.

I've looked as best I can and I can't really see any significant leaks so I'm not sure where it's coming from... in fact, since I've gotten home, I don't think any has leaked (I assume since the engine is warm, the seals have swelled or something)

thanks

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1995 E300D - 225,000 miles - White Exterior, Grey Interior - original owner

The refinery where I work went to ULSD a few weeks ago. Most refineries started making the stuff June 1.

I can't speak for the whole industry, but the refinery where I'm at only makes one grade of diesel. The off-road diesel comes out of the same tanks as the on-road. Only difference is the dye which is added when it's loaded into the tanker trucks. It's not worth the trouble to have seperate tankage.

Does Biodiesel present the same problems interms of IP seals as the ULSD?

A direct answer (with references) would be greatly appreciated.

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Current Stable:
1994 S500 v140, 210k miles, white with grey.

Former Mercedes in the Stable:
1983 300CD Turbo diesel 515k mi sold (rumor has it, that it has 750k miles on it now)
1984 300CD Turbo Diesel 150 k mi sold
1982 300D Turbo Diesel 225 sold
1987 300D Turbo Diesel 255k mi sold
1988 300 CE AMG Hammer 15k mi sold
1986 "300E" Amg Hammer 88k mi sold (it was really a 200, not even an E (124.020)
1992 500E 156k mi sold
etc.

bfisher,
The leak you probably have is the banjo fitting on the back side of the IP. I had to replace my fuel lines earlier this year and now have a leak that appears to be from there. That was where my original leak was. I also have a slight leak on the top of my shut off valve on the filter assembly. Does anyone know if there is an O-ring packing in that valve or not?
I have been using Howes all the time and it appears to make it run smoother, but doesn't seem to slow down the leaks.
For what it is worth.

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Habits I support
95 E300 D 220,000 & counting (I think I'll call him Fritz)
02 Tahoe (Momma's ride)
98 GMC Sierra 120,000
57 Chevy Nomad (bought in '69)

guys, there's an extended discussion here as the TDi folks seem to be suffering the same leaks. There is also some discussion about BD and leaks.

dieseldiehard, I am with you as to adding soy to the tank if I knew about how much would be right. Does the soy clean like bio? I carry spare filters anyway. I saw it was $13.89 a cube at Sam's Club today. Is the 35# about the same as 5 gal? I use quite a bit in the winter as I do a lot lf fried turkeys for people. I have used it straight in my tractor but not my car. I know the IP need lube and I suspect the valves and cylinder walls need it too.
Bud

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1987 300D Turbo, 175k mi., 1998 BMW 323i Convertible, 1997 F250 4x4 7.3L PSD

The answer is no. I've not noticed that vegetable oil does any significant cleaning. You want cleaning, use biodiesel.

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'83 240D with 617.952 and 2.88
'01 VW Beetle TDI
'05 Jeep Liberty CRD
'89 Toyota 4x4, needs 2L-T
'78 280Z with L28ET - 12.86@110
Oil Burner Kartel #35

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b1...oD/bioclip.jpg

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=163900

Read the other thread. It is very close to this one, but has some good info not covered here.


This what you need to do, IMHO only!!

1 Add some transmission-sealer-in-a-bottle to the fuel filter and the tank. Worked like a charm for me.

2 Make sure you have some biodiesel in the tank at all times.
Has continued to work for me since doing above.

3 Keep a bottle of transmission-sealer-in-a-bottle in your trunk for when you cannot get biodiesel.

For those of you asking about adding vegetable oil, use canola. It has a lower cloud point and is the only vegetable oil recommended by www.Elsbett.com in their SVO application. As little as 2% is enough to bring even the worst case diesel (kerosene #1) up to lubrication standards, supported by a university student's masters thesis. (I have got to learn to book mark these papers when I find them...)

-Jim

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1995 S350D, Green with black leather interior.
Bought January 2008 w/ 233,xxx miles.
I did 22,000 miles during the first year of ownership.

you've got to find that thesis, I want to read that for sure!

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Current Stable:
1994 S500 v140, 210k miles, white with grey.

Former Mercedes in the Stable:
1983 300CD Turbo diesel 515k mi sold (rumor has it, that it has 750k miles on it now)
1984 300CD Turbo Diesel 150 k mi sold
1982 300D Turbo Diesel 225 sold
1987 300D Turbo Diesel 255k mi sold
1988 300 CE AMG Hammer 15k mi sold
1986 "300E" Amg Hammer 88k mi sold (it was really a 200, not even an E (124.020)
1992 500E 156k mi sold
etc.

G'mornin' Folks,

In regards to the "New" low sulphur diesel fuels, supposedly coming down the pipe......about a month ago, I was looking into VW Bug TDi's and was told by a salesperson at a MD VW dealership (had 2 on the lot) that there would be no actual 2007 VW model run, just an extended 2006 run. This is supposedly due to a lack of firm regulation by our wonderful gridlocked legislative system. He told me that VW was not going to make Diesels for USA use, until they could be assured that the USA would actually mandate the low sulphur fuels, and that the "new" fuel was actually redilly available!! I have no clue as to the accuracy of his comments, however I do find them to be 100% believable.

I use "Diesel Kleen", in my old Eicher "Schmalspurschlepper" (narrow track tractor). I add 3 oz per 5 Gal container......ususlly Dyed Diesel (off road diesel). This tractor is a 30HP, 2 cyl, 4 stroke (long stroke), air cooled, West German made machine. It starts easilly, and runs well, no smoke under any load.

I use "Diesel Kleen" in all of my diesel fuel. Also, I add 2 oz per 5 gal of "Marvel Mystery Oil" to all of my gasoline.....just a habit that I got into some 30 years ago.....works fer me.....

Note: having retired from the marine industry, I have always assumed that "Marine Diesel" and "Off Road Diesel" are the same basic product....just regular diesel that has a red dye added to indicate to the "tax man" that it should not be in an "on road" vehicle, due to the non-payment of highway taxes.
Note II: Years ago the Germans referred to low sulphur diesel as "Gas Oil"!!

SB

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Diesels:
'85 300D, "Max, Blue Benz", 155K, 27.0 MPG
'84 190D 2.2, "Eva, Brown Benz", 142K, 40.2 MPG
'77 240D (parts car)
'67 Eicher ES 202 Tractor "Otto" (2cyl, Air Cooled, 30HP)
Gassers:
'94 Ford F-150, "Henry", 170K (300 Six) 17.5 MPG
'85 190E 2.3, 148K....Parts Car
'58 Dodge W300M Powerwagon (Flat Fenders) Less than 10 MPG

G'mornin' again!!

Most "American's" are not familiar with European pipe/tubing systems. German engineers use a lot of "Banjo" fittings, they use copper "dichtrings" (copper washers). These are not ordinary washers, and there must be one on each side of the "banjo". These rings should either be renewed, or anealed (soften the copper) after any disturbance of the fitting.

Also of note.....Bosch Injection pumps generally have a "special" banjo bolt that has a little spring loaded ball valve inside.....looks just like any other banjo bolt....at a glance, however upon inspection it is easilly noted. This bolt is located in the fuel return line, leaving the injection pump. It is a pressure regulating device that assures a designed pressure within the fuel gallery, within the injection pump. It could be possible that the newer fuels are causing some sort of crud to find it's way to this valve, and cause it to stick...thus causing an increase in pressure within the pump....thus causing leaks......

Enough for now...
SB

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Diesels:
'85 300D, "Max, Blue Benz", 155K, 27.0 MPG
'84 190D 2.2, "Eva, Brown Benz", 142K, 40.2 MPG
'77 240D (parts car)
'67 Eicher ES 202 Tractor "Otto" (2cyl, Air Cooled, 30HP)
Gassers:
'94 Ford F-150, "Henry", 170K (300 Six) 17.5 MPG
'85 190E 2.3, 148K....Parts Car
'58 Dodge W300M Powerwagon (Flat Fenders) Less than 10 MPG