1987 300D turbo with 260000+ now and I am experiencing some power loss along with noise from the IP and it is leaking fuel from the top of the pump where the fittings screw into the pump body (to the extent of a very noticable fuel odor while driving and just after stopping). I do have a replacement pump to put in (used but in good shape). Heres the delema, Do I repair the existing pump (at least new o-rings) and try to figure out what the noise is (it sounds like cavitation and the vac pump looks ok on the inside) or swap in the "new" pump.

To agrivate the situation, during another repair, the crank timing indicator was removed and replaced so I am not sure if it is set correctly, so I am trying to figure out how to correctly set that (any suggestions), so that I can correctly time the IP once I work up the nerve to swap it.

While I am at it I do intend to put in the updated vac pump, I have the feeling that my lucky streak is nearing its end with the original vac pump.

So I have contacted the tool rental forum and am arranging to get the IP lock tool.

What else will I need to make the job go smoother and to insure the timing gets set properly.

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Dean

Dean,

Timing the 603 is far easier with the RIV timing lights. Crazy Banana rents this tool in the tool rental program and you can set timing in about 10 minutes with it.

If you use the IP lock tool, it requires you to lock the pump, read the crankshaft damper, unlock the pump, blindly adjust the IP, relock the pump..........etc. It's a long and arduous affair.

Is it necessarily a blind process? Assuming IP timing is within a few degrees of spec you should be able to leave the spring loaded lock in place with the notch clocked properly then turn the adjusting lead screw until the lug engages the notch. It's not as precise or simple as using the A-B light but neither is it hit-or-miss. Thoughts, Brian?

Sixto

My only problem with using the riv tol right now is that I'm not certian of the accuracy of the positioning of the adjustable bracket that indicates the crank timing. I believe the riv tool references it to guage the timing of the IP, right? So i would like to use it, but i first need to dial in the crank timing indication.

Does anyone have a procedure for that? From what I remember, the crank timing indicator is referenced to ?deg past TDC, and what is the best method for manually finding TDC on this engine? I am guessing that using a dial indicator with a long stem, through the injector port but how would this get mounted. Is there a tool for this already?

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Dean

Agreed. Once the lug engages the notch, you then read the crankshaft damper. If it's not correct, you must remove the IP lock and move the pump. You can't move the pump with the lock installed.

I suppose that you can then reset the crankshaft to spec and rotate the pump slowly until the notch engages the slot in the adjusting screw. Then you would be right on the money for the timing.

It's not as difficult as hit or miss........but not as easy as the RIV tool.

Dean can give it a whirl and see if it works for him.

Both the RIV tool and the IP lock tool use the cranksaft damper to check timing. Without an accurate position for that bracket, it's not possible to use either tool.

You'll need to establish TDC independent of the damper to set that bracket. It's no simple task.

If you want the pump rebuilt their is a shop right off I95 in New Haven CT that will be able to help.

Although, you could just rent the spline socket and do the delivery valves seals yourself.

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1999 SL500
1969 280SE
2023 Ram 1500
2007 Tiara 3200

Any idea what they charge to simply reseal the pump? My SDL needs a resealed pump badly...

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I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look.

'85 300SD 245k
'87 300SDL 251k
'90 300SEL 326k

Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford.

Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.[/IMG]

You could set the position of the timing sensor in nearly the same position as another (running) 603 engine, find one for reference! Then use the RIV tool, that's how I did mine after removing it for cleaning the timing cover, I was about to remove the cover but put the crank pulley back on and gave up while I was ahead, The FSM description of how to set the timing sensor was too difficult. I'm not sure I even understood it correctly. It turned out ok for me, after working through a plugged Trap oxidizer then discovering that my fuel was contaminated with water, I just ran it with a lot of Fuel treatment and the nailing finally went away!

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'95 E320 Wagon my favorite road car. '99 E300D wolf in sheeps body, '87 300D Sportline suspension, '79 300TD w/ 617.952 engine at 367,750 and counting!

This is one of the reasons I wanted to pose this question here.

that's great, for stopping the leak, I'm more concerened about the noise the pump is making. It sort of sounds like cavitation but im not %100.

Thats why I ay want to lean towards the replacement pump.

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Dean

No idea have not had IP work done, yet...


The Clark-Son Co.
(203) 787-6746

They are not to far from me. If they won't get involved with shipping send it to me and I'll bring it to them.

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1999 SL500
1969 280SE
2023 Ram 1500
2007 Tiara 3200