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  #1  
Old 05-24-2006, 08:17 AM
muleears's Avatar
Old MB Driver
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Windsor, VA
Posts: 1,435
Newbie with purchase questions

I am new to the forum but have owned a few MB's in the past (190E 2.6, 300SD, 300D turbo) When I owned these the internet was in its infancy. I now am looking for advice on the purchase of a 87 300D turbo. I have searched the archives and have determined the head can be a problem and suspension components. The car I am looking at has 295K on the clock and a great deal of maintenance records (I'll see them today). I am told the head has been redone, the struts replaced and various other suspension components. AC works most of the time, sometimes stops cooling on its own and restarts when the car is restarted (clutch?). Paint has some clear coat issues, all windows and seats work, cruise does not. Is there anything particular to the 87 that I need to check? Does the IP last over 300K on these? The seller is asking $3,000. Should I invest in a Carfax? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

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  #2  
Old 05-24-2006, 12:40 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 78
Welcome to the forum.
I had a 300D for about a year. Loved it, but be aware of the maintenance.
If the car was poorly maintained, it will cost you a lot of money, check the records.
Quote:
Originally Posted by muleears
A/c works most of the time
Could be the climate control unit or the compressor clutch. If you turn the climate control to off position. Does it still blow some air or start blowing a few minutes later? My SDL started to blow cold on EC or OFF position.
Does the car use any oil? 295K miles on the clock is a bit high for asking price in my opinion especially with the paint issues. After all is a 20 year old car with 300K miles on it, but again that is my opinion.
I have seen the #16 head cracked in 4 places so bad that it was displayed at the shop I go, I suspect the #22 is better. Check the number of the replaced head and still do the cold engine test if you can. I would not be satisfied just with the idea that the head has been replaced sometime in the past so therefore has no problems.... What I find out works really good and one of the first symptoms of the cracked head is this test:
When the car is cold, open the expansion cap and release all the pressure, close it and start the car. Let it run for 2 minutes. Stop the engine and open the expansion cap. If you hear any pressure coming out I would suspect a cracked head in formation but too small to give other symptoms yet.
Overall it is an awesome machine
Cheers ....and hope it works out for you.
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1987 300SDL
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Pic of this car:
http://www.gigapipe.net/300SDL/index.htm
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  #3  
Old 05-24-2006, 04:22 PM
muleears's Avatar
Old MB Driver
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Windsor, VA
Posts: 1,435
Well I took a look

The car needs paint and has a small dent on the RF fender. He showed me a stack of receipts for numerous items; brakes, ball joints, tie rods, ALDA, struts, spring mounts, etc. The head has been replaced with a new model head from a junkyard, it has not been rebuilt. Mechanically the car seemed to be in excellent condition. Motor was rock solid at idle. I took the oil cap off and could see no blow by. Power seats work, windows/roof work, new tires. Is it worth $2500?
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  #4  
Old 05-24-2006, 08:57 PM
baraboom's Avatar
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Has the head been pressure tested before installed?
I think is worth $2500, maybe someone with more experience on the 124 can jump in, I know mine had more problems, water pump, radiator leak just this 2 about $750 parts and labor. suspension problems etc.
Have you checked and SDL? same engine
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1987 300SDL
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Pic of this car:
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  #5  
Old 05-24-2006, 09:30 PM
muleears's Avatar
Old MB Driver
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Windsor, VA
Posts: 1,435
Additional work

that this has had done include: trap oxidizer at 170K, water pump and fan clutch at 180K, radiator at 183k, windshield at 197K, lower ball joints at 207K, glow plugs, shift bushings at 212K, serpentine belt at 223K, alternator at 228K, converted to 134A at 233K, All acc pods and heater core at 239K, all four wheel brakes at 259K, rear torque struts and spring mounts at 260K, new design vacuum pump at 264K, struts, bellows and mounts at 264K, cylinder head #17(recon by star) at 272K, driver side tie rod at 276K, LOF w/rotella T at 5K intervals. Any additional input would be greatly appreciated. Is this a good candidate for WVO conversion?

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