Ok, I really need some help from my fellow diesel heads.

FYI-

I am about to turn 17 (on wednesday)

I only have $85.

Because of the severe length of this thread I have included an overview at the end.

There are several things that need to be done, and some I would really like to be done... tell me what order you think I should do the following in. (all involving my car)

I need to ship an old tachometer (did not work, seller replaced and a never gave him this broken one back yet) back to the seller. This will probably cost $10-$15, but he said he needed it before he leaves in july.

I am having some starting issues with my car, and I may need to buy something soon. See this thread. I will get a load test done tomorrow, but should I save some of my money in case? I will also want to upgrade the alternator soon which would cost about 100$ + associated wiring and shipping.

I have some fairly bad oil and transmission fluid leaks. (several small spots wherever I park) I have been checking the levels religously and have not noticed any decrease. There are no drips while running which stumps me a bit. I have decided that I probably should go back and replace several gaskets etc. This would also envolve removing at least some of the oil, and tranny fluid. Without new fluids this would set me back about $90 (which I dont even have) This would include new shutoff valve gaskets, new IP gaskets, new oil filter housing gaskets, new turbo drain gaskets and o-rings, new valve cover gasket, new lower pan gasket, a new transmission filter, a new tranny pan gasket and all new belts (which probably should have been replaced some time ago.) Do I have to buy new tranny fluid if it is still blood red, does not smell burnt or bad at all, I drain it into a new clean pan and filter it before putting it back into my car?

Also, some hack (me about a year ago who only knew about these cars what he saw on ebay because he had not yet found this wonderful website) has put on a K&N style air filter, which means my stock one is not there. (I had to tear apart the stock one to get the catch can.) A good used air filter housing and associated parts would cost about 25-35$ plus shipping. The new element would be included in the previous parts order list (included in the $90)

Also, a while back I thought I was to the point I could begin to work on more cosmetic things so I bought a new hood pad. I need to buy the adhesive and do that, which would cost about $16. (I can only find it one place local)

I would really really like to make my a/c work again, and my compressor is not seized. This would probably involve all new o-rings, a new reciever/dryer, a new expansion valve, a good vacuuming, oil, and some R-12. This could get pricey quickly because I dont have a vacuum, or a manifold gauge set. Nor do I have a license to buy R-12. It has been converted to R-134a, but I would want to put it back. Am I skipping over anything? I think after the parts (alone would probably cost at least $100) I would still have to pay a friend at the shop some money to vacuum it, add oil, and add R-12... how much?

Also, because of my birthday my parents would like to get me something, but dont really ( I think ) just want to buy me a bunch of car parts. I told them about the nice EURO headlights I saw on ebay HERE And I think they would get those for me if that is what I told them I wanted... and it is, but Im not sure if that is what I need at the moment... help me decide.

OVERVIEW What do I do?

Send the tachometer back to the seller now (which I need to do eventually) Cost = $10-$15

Save my money and make sure that my starting system is ok, or buy and put together a new alternator upgrade. Cost = Unknown, but more than I have.

Solve my leaks? Cost = about $90 plus fluids (if I need to replace?)

Buy a stock air cleaner housing and air filter element? Cost = $40 plus shipping

Buy special hoodpad adhesive? Cost = $16

Get the a/c working Cost = Probably >$200

Have my parents get me car parts, EURO headlights, or something else?

What order do these come in? Please help me decide.

Also, sorry for the long read and thanks so much if you read through it all!

most of this is judgement calls.

one i would ship the tach. a promise is a promise. when i was young i didnt do several things like that and every time i remember it i dont feel very good.

two i would keep the k and n. keep it clean and oiled. you can put it back stock later when you have more dough.

on the hood pad, i would return it for credit and forget the glue.

on the oil leaks, a drop here and there is not worth spending precious money on. what oil you using? if it is too light a switch to 15w40 rotella might help.

get the starting issue sorted for sure.

and if you can afford it the ac.

and getting the euro lights might make you feel better so why not? but with the weather the last few days here i would ask them for the ac.

tom w

__________________
[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

Given your limited resources, I would suggest:

1. Send the tachometer back to the seller now because you made a commitment, but find the cheapest possible way to send it ($10-$15 sounds too high).

2. Get your battery test done. I suspect you will need a new battery, which will just about use up the rest of your budget anyway. I don't see any reason to upgrade the charging system now, if the stock system is working.

3. Just live with everything else until you can afford to fix them. Keep an eye on the fluids and top-off as required. Keep an eye out for the air filter housing, maybe someone here has one. Install the hood pad whenever you have an extra $20. Don't count on fixing the AC for $200, it always seems to cost more than you think for AC issues.

4. I would get cash from the parents, stuff like euro lights can wait until you get the basics done.

Of course, when I was your age I probably would have just bought $80 worth of beer.

Come to terms with the fact that they leak. ... then, steam clean the engine and check daily or semi daily for leaks. Once you find it, fix that leak - don't disturb any other parts (if it aint broke, don't fix it).

Instead of having your parents spend $250 on euro lights (frills), have them give you cash for parts purchase (but only what you need on the day of purchase - or else you will be tempted to spend it on BS).

Go find a junkyard, and get your aircleaner housing there - easy way to save on shipping costs. See about selling your used K&N unit on ebay - recoup some $!

Do you use trans fluid in your P/S ?


You don't know what the A/C will need unless you take it to a shop. Have them do their tests on it (you did say you have no gauges, nor, I imagine, dye and a sniffer, and whoknowswhatelse).

Don't filter drained tranny fluid and put it back into the car. Make sure the transmission pan gasket is leaking (unlikely) before you go throw money out the window for a new gasket (and filter), and try to make up for that, by filtering the drained fluid.
Check the belts for wear and cracks before assuming they need changing. (cracks are obvious, normal wear is noticed by seeing how far down the belt sits in the groove)

[B]Overview[B]

(Since you have little green) Spend only money on items that, if they break, will leave you stranded.


PS: I sent you a PM about the tach postage the first time you started this thread.
PPS: Since you decided to delete the first one you started, I had to rewrite my entire answer all over again, trouble is, the second time I was annoyed, and it might have bled through in my reply. - sorry

__________________
It is a truism that almost any sect, cult, or religion will legislate its creed into law if it acquires the political power to do so. Robert A. Heinlein


09 Jetta TDI
1985 300D

Ok tomorrow I will send out the tach and get the battery tested.

For now I wont buy anything, but I need to figure out what to ask for.

As for the beer thing, I am not into anything like that luckily.

And I know for a fact that the tranny pan gasket is what is leaking... maybe I just dont have it torqued quite right.

I will leave A/C until everything else is solved.

And I am terribly sorry Larry, I could not get the poll to come up right before so I had to delete it.

Im just not sure if my parents just want to give me cash

Goodnight.

Yes, I agree, take care of the tach. Your word is not only important to others but also to yourself.

Take care of the starting issue first.

The K&N filter is fine. As was mentioned, oil it well on the outside. (I have one and like it just fine. I know there are a lot of rants here against them but have seen bias seems to weigh in.)

The glue for the hood pad might be a pretty good priority. Excessive heat from the engine could cause blistering of the paint.

Topping off the fluids will get you by.

The Euro lights are nice but not necessary.

Maybe Mom and Dad will help you with the A/C?

__________________
Sam

84 300SD 350K+ miles ( Blue Belle )

Hey buddy, I would get the basics sorted out. That means testing your fixing those problems that may leave you stranded.


Things like EuroLights can wait. They have for me, I had to fix the Catalyst on the wagon, and it set me back $400. When the time comes, and things are rolling along fine, then the cool mods will come.

And hey, send me a PM with your address. I will send a carepackage your way!

__________________
-Justin

91 560 SEC AMG - other dogs dd
01 Honda S2000 - dogs dd
07 MB ML320 CDI - dd
16 Lexus IS250 - wifes dd

it's automatic.

Step 1 is to get a job. $85 won't go very far.

Actually step 1 is to send back the tach. Step .5 is to get a job.

My advice is to repair the mechanicals (oil leaks, etc) before working on appearance items (euro lights).

I did forget to mention that I do have a job and will be starting to work on the 4th, but I need a reliable car to get to my job.

Also, I still need to send in my taxes from last year which should give me some money (probably about $200)

I have other expenses too (insurance etc..)

Also, after the mechanical things are done I would like to update my WVO 2-tank setup, which would involve adding a new electric heater and replumbing some things (possibly new fittings and hoses) Where should this come?

And, eventually I may want to even upgrade more of my audio system... who knows. I guess these things should come last?

Thank you for all the helpful advice, now I am off to a doctors appointment then on to test the battery.

Ill update when I get back.

Now you know the answer to that is "yes".
Audio, headlights, wvo stuff........... wait, wait and wait! That is stuff will that will feel good to buy once you have been working for awhile.
I'm assuming you want to upgrade alt. for non-essential systems.... wait.
Leaks...... wait (like someone here says, "they don't leak, they mark their spot")

First and foremost.... send back tach. Your word and honor have no price!
Good luck at the doc's.....

__________________
Jimmy L.
'05 Acura TL 6MT
2001 ML430 My Spare

Gone:
'95 E300 188K "Batmobile" Texas Unfriendly Black
'85 300TD 235K "The Wagon" Texas Friendly White
'80 240D 154K "China" Scar engine installed
'81 300TD 240K "Smash"
'80 240D 230K "The Squash"
'81 240D 293K"Scar" Rear ended harder than Elton John

"Just got back from Autozoo...

The guy first just tested my battery, which was shown to be good but a little low on charge. At rest with his tester, the battery read 12.56 volts. Then I started the car while monitoring the voltage. With the glow plugs voltage dipped down to 11.9v and I never saw it go below 11v with the starter engaged today. This was with the car up to operating temperature and with it just being shut off 5 minuted before.

Then he checked to make sure that the alternator was charging fully, which it was. He had me keep it steady at 2000rpm's while the tester did its thing. He told me that it was charging fine and all the system needed was a light charge. I did not have a chance to see acually how many amps the alternator was putting out.

Seems like everything in this region is good? Maybe I will add another grounding strap.

opinions? suggestions?"

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=154411&page=3

Im going to go out now to send off that tach.

Since your funds are limited you want to be sure of whats wrong. Good ideal and prudent even when you have money. Clean and check all your connections on starter and battery. Drive car with the water bottle in the trunk. Next time it does it's act try some cooling water on the starter and solenoid. If it responds another solenoid or starter is indicated. Fix it. Heat soaked starters are notorious for this behaviour. In fact if only a random occourence you could live with it for awhile if money where short but I suspect it to get much hotter yet. I do not know your particular models layout but make sure to check if there was once a heat shield there that is missing but that is a long shot. Totally ignore the thought unless it fell off if you drove through last summer without trouble.. A layer of insulation or insulating shield on the downpipe might help a little too. Thats if they are in close proximity.

Set up a time to stop by some time soon. I have gauges and we can have a look at your A/C and charging issues and anything else you want. Might even have enough glue left on hand to put the new hood pad on so that would be free. Just did one on uncle's '88 560 SEL. I know a few tricks for the charging systems anyway (guess how I learned!). Wanna see how your car is running these days anyways. Do you have the lower covers for the engine bay? You know, all those plastic panels? If not, a carefull stop at the (4) quarter car wash can help spot the leaks. Just try to stay away from the pump and anything that is very hot. We both know you don't want to have to replace that pump!
For those who don't know: when we got Sady's car running, it had the smoothest idle I have ever heard out of a diesel, any diesel. He must have the most balanced engine/fuel system out there. Says a lot for the folks he got the engine from.

+1

And obviously, make the car start and drive well before installing euro lights or fixing the AC. Personally, I would fix the AC before installing the euro lights, but that is sort of a personal question.

Believe me, where he lives, A/C comes WAY before headlights. Summers in Cincy are hot and sweaty (now ask me about the women!)