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  #31  
Old 06-09-2006, 11:16 AM
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I finally just did it (Like the Nike slogan)

I decided I was not gonna put up with the old R12 and all these other hard-to-get refrigerants and just use what is readily available - R134A on my 85 300D. I figured this was the most cost effective way to do it since 134 is available everywhere.

I got the 134a conversion kit from NAPA ($45). It comes with 3 12oz? 134 cannisters and one oil cannister, a charging hose, fittings. Also got a $14 gauge/hose.

Followed instructions, and voila!! it ran fine. I guess all my ac components were in working order.

The local foreign auto shop was preping me to spend a grand to get it going. Shocking!

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  #32  
Old 06-09-2006, 11:20 AM
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Ohh dont use 134a. Now you got to got get an expansion valve to meter 134a for your car and swap out your condensor to a more efficient one, if you want real cold air that is.
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  #33  
Old 06-09-2006, 11:27 AM
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yep

I'm aware that the temps of 134 is higher. thats ok. summers in MI arent that long and its enough to get the humidity down. Just happy I got it to work and didnt have to spend an A and L. Plus the benefit of easy access to 134.

Appreciate the input.
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2007 Honda Accord EX
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97 Explorer - Found Another Home
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  #34  
Old 06-09-2006, 11:30 AM
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Oh well just be aware the pressures of 134a is higher and can lead to seal leakage faster. Make sure you at the very least install the 134a speced expansion valve and a new dryer.
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  #35  
Old 06-09-2006, 11:58 AM
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We'll See

Quote:
Originally Posted by Diesel Giant
Oh well just be aware the pressures of 134a is higher and can lead to seal leakage faster. Make sure you at the very least install the 134a speced expansion valve and a new dryer.
I may revert back to R12 so I'll leave things the way they are.

Where would I get the 134 dryer and exp valve anyway?

Thanks
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the sooner you start... the sooner you'll get done If it ain't broke, don't fix it.. Its always simpler to tell the truth...
2007 Honda Accord EX
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96 C220
97 Explorer - Found Another Home
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  #36  
Old 06-09-2006, 12:57 PM
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"If the current dryer is compatible with the refridgerant that you're using, you probably only need to evacuate it to a deep vacuum for a half-hour or more immediately before you add refridgerant"--Matt L

That is not true. Once water gets mixed in to the oil and dessicant you must replace the reciever dryer to be safe.. otherwise moisture will form acid which will mess with your system from the inside out.
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  #37  
Old 06-09-2006, 03:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leathermang
"If the current dryer is compatible with the refridgerant that you're using, you probably only need to evacuate it to a deep vacuum for a half-hour or more immediately before you add refridgerant"--Matt L

That is not true. Once water gets mixed in to the oil and dessicant you must replace the reciever dryer to be safe.. otherwise moisture will form acid which will mess with your system from the inside out.
Thanks for the correction. I can see how the oil would pose a problem there.
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  #38  
Old 06-09-2006, 05:36 PM
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I believe in discussions before that it was determined that actual R-12 TX valves are not available ... when you get a new one these days it is for R-134a... but since the efficiency has to do with the physics of the refrigerant molecule and that all the rest of the system was made for R-12 I don' t think you will be able to tell any difference.

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