Hi all. I just purchased a 1983 300D Turbo-Diesel. 228K miles. It's a couple months older than I am. 5-cyl, RWD, you guys probably know this stuff. This is my first Mercedes and first diesel. I haven't much time to play with it yet. I'm a member of a few other forums, and know how to search.

First order of business is identification. The plate on the back says 300D, and it is an '83, but I can't get that info to match up in the US Models Chart. Is it actually a 300D-T? 300SD? It does have a turbo. I think it has been repainted, so maybe it got the wrong badge put on.
Anyway, I need to know the engine, transmission, and differential codes.

Next up are fluid changes. Oil first. From what I have found here, the filter is not like a standard gas-engine screw-on type. Correct? Is there a drain plug in the oil pan? I will be doing all my own service.

How do I open the trunk? The key tumbler is missing... And how do I pop the gas door?

Anyone have CarFax capabilities?

--Ed

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Oil Change! http://dieselgiant.com/mercedesdieseloilchange.htm

13mm box wrench, and a 13mm socket with an extension is all you need for the oil change. You shouldn't have to lift the car to drain the oil, unless your drainpan is a foot tall. You will use one copper washer for the plug, and the large o-ring for the filter lid. Disregard the steel washer that may be included. Use OEM filters. (I haven't read Giant's oil change tutorial, since I'm pretty sure I've mastered it by now -so I may be repeating myself).

You have a 617.952 engine and a 722.315 transmission.

A lot of listings will show your car as being a 300D-T (T for Turbo).
We all know that the 83 would have a turbo, but some lists apparently think not.

Since you're changing fluids, there is also a P/S filter. The brake fluid is supposed to be flushed every 2 years, and the diff. is supposed to get the same (IF you do the rear end, make sure the fill plug is loose first, or you will have to turn the car upside down to fill it back up). The trans. has a drain plug too (4mm hex, I think).

Oh, and while you are tinkering under the hood, watch those vacuum lines! (while you are at it, check the lines and rubber connectors)

Have Fun!!

-Larry

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It is a truism that almost any sect, cult, or religion will legislate its creed into law if it acquires the political power to do so. Robert A. Heinlein


09 Jetta TDI
1985 300D

Looks like they got the fuild changes covered.

Gas door: ..... should open when doors are unlocked. You push on the
forward edge, no interior cable/handle thing like japanese cars.
Gas cap holder in the gas door (that wire thing).

If you gas door is locked (it auto locks when doors are locked),
that is a different problem - which we solve when the trunk gets opened.

About that trunk: No tumbler ? - Please post a pic. Maybe I can duplicate your problem on my donor car and see how that whole thing works.

Welcome to the group, all your questions can be asnwered here. These folks are the best !

The search tab is at the top of the screen. Lots and lots to look up.

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80 300D 340K Owned 30 yrs
83 300SD 440K Owned 9 yrs - Daily Driver 150mi/day
02 Z71 Suburban 117,000
15 Toyota Prius 2600 miles
00 Harley Sportster 24k
09 Yamaha R6
03 Ninja 250

An oil change is the leading cause of the car not shutting off after you pull the key out. I'm pretty sure Diesel Giant mentions that in his tutorial but I thought I'd say it again. What happens is it's easy to accidentally disconnect the vac lines, and the injection pump uses a vacuum-powered valve to shut off the fuel supply when you turn the car off. If this happens to you there's a 'stop' lever near the engine that will shut it off.

Probably 75% of people doing an oil change for the first time have this happen to them, I would guess.

As for the oil filters, there's a lot of debate about which you should use. Some claim the OEM filters are not as good as they used to be and Wix are now better, or even Fram provided they're the ones made in Turkey.

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Ralph

1985 300D Turbo, CA model
248,650 miles and counting...

Bookmark, read, and reread everything on Diesel Giant's website. I have been working on my own cars for years, but they are all different in some ways.

I'm pretty sure Carfax wasn't around until the late '90s so I'm really not too sure that it would do you any good.

What about the fuel filters? You guys left that out! There are 2 fuel filters. A spin-on and a prefilter. The prefilter is a little plastic one about 2 inches long before the spin-on filter. This should be pretty clear and you should be able to see the fuel in it. If you see crud floated around in it then be thankful cuz it's doin' it's job.

If you've never changed an oil filter on a diesel before then don't be shocked when you go to check it immediately after changing and the oil is pitch black again. hehe. This has gotten a few new MB diesel owners concerned before.

Good idea to use some latex rubber gloves when changing the oil. Also good idea to put something down on the driveway (big piece of cardboard, newspaper, etc.). Any little drips will not come out easily.

I hope I was able to help.

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Frank
84 500SEL EURO 101K ( JUST LIKE MY 1ST WIFE. GLAD TO GET RID OF HER! )
85 300D 310K (sold)
90 350SDL 184K sold
83 300D 118K (sold)
88 300E 153k (sold)
93 400E 105K (sold)

Congrats on your purchase.

RE TRUNK: If you don't have the lock in the hole for the trunk, you can open it by pushing a "lever" inside the hole. I can use my finger and not get injured, but you might want to start out by using a screwdriver first.

If inside the hole were a clock, aim for the 1 position. (top right quadrant) and push toward the front of the car. This should pop the trunk with the same sound as if you used a key.

hope this helps..

oh, and personally, I only use Hengst or Mann oil filters... that's up to you.

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Nello Tare

1982 300D (266,001 mi.) looking and running great

Previously owned:
1976 450 SLC
1983 300D
1976 300D
also
1982 Jaguar XJ6 (loved, but gone)

on the rear end job. you need to be sure you take the top plug out first, cause if you drain it and cant get the top plug out you have a problem. no oil in diff and no way to get it full.

otherwise they covered all the beginning things.

great cars, benzes.

tom w

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

It isn't carfax, but http://www.mbclub.ru/mb/vin/index.html will get you the build information if you put in your VIN number. Good Luck, Chuck.

Awesome replies guys. Thanks!

I'll eventually get to the windows, AC, cruise, and other stuff that doesn't work.

I bought oil tonight, but couldn't find a parts store that had a filter (of any kind) in stock. Is there a popular cheap OEM supplier on the internet?

What kind of mostly-highway mileage can I expect? I'm not looking forward to $70 fill-ups.

Is my chassis a W123?

I'm looking through the owner's manual now. Seems I have the "base" version. Was the high-end version the 300CD?

Yes, you have a W123. There really wasn't much of options on these cars. I believe there was a heater seat option and thats pretty much all for the 300. The CD coupe was more expensive but I wouldn't consider your car base.

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Adam Lumsden
(83) 300D
Vice-President of the MBCA International Stars Section

Welcome to the forum.

There is lots of info in this forum on windows, AC, cruise, etc. Just take things one at a time, these cars a pretty easy to work on once you learn the basics.

The sponsor of this forum is an excellent supplier, just click buy parts at the top of the page.

I have an 82 300D, which is essentially identical to your car. My mileage ranges from the mid to high 20s. You can get down to the low 20s if you really push it, and you will have to try very hard to get close to 30. Your tank holds about 21 gallons, but I usually fill-up when it gets down to about 1/4, about $45 these days.

You can buy parts from Phil at Fastlane by simply clicking on "buy parts" at the very top of the page, phil has some of the best prices on parts, and super fast shipping.