Another newbie question. I am trying to remove the alternator on my 84 300 td wagon. I have the bottom bolt out, the wiring harness unnpluged, the belt tensioner backed all the way off and the belts off. It looks like the belt tensioner bolt goes through the alt. and needs to come out, but the threaded tensioner adjusting rod won't allow that. Does the bracket that holds the tensioning assembly come off with the alt?

If I remember correctly then the bracket does come off at the same time. I'm not sure this is the "correct" way but I believe it was the only way I could figure to get the alternator off (I did this about 6 months ago). Yes, it isn't exactly easy to get the alternator off.

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1985 300D Turbo ~225k
2000 F350 (Powerstroke) 4X4, SWB, CC, SRW, 6spd ~148k
1999 International 4900, DT466e (250hp/660 ft/lbs), Allison MD3060 ~73k

the alternator unbolts from the main bracket. you dont need to undo the adjuster, just move the alternator toward the motor enough to get the old belt off and the new one on.

as i remember there is one bolt that attaches to the adjuster, 13 or 14 mm. this comes out and the bottom bolt (a big one) the bottom one often wears in the place the alternator sits so it comes out with a banded appearance. it might be hard to get out too because of this. the top bolt is usually easy to get out.

look at it closely it should become evident what needs to stay and what comes off with the
alternator.

btw, usually the brushes and regulator is what is wrong with the alt. maybe 75% of the time. so i would get it tested before replacing it. or i would just replace the brushes and reg first for good measure since it takes about 10 min and the r and r of the alternator takes at least prob an hour.

good luck

tom w

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

the cure to a bad alternator is to replace the brush assembly in the back of the alternator.... and you do not have to remove the alternator to do this...

Replacing brushes usually works, sometimes it's too worn and needs to be rewound, new bearings, etc. I know I couldn't get one of the bolts out on mine..... there wasn't enough room for it to come out all the way (But that may be specific to my year model).

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1985 300D Turbo ~225k
2000 F350 (Powerstroke) 4X4, SWB, CC, SRW, 6spd ~148k
1999 International 4900, DT466e (250hp/660 ft/lbs), Allison MD3060 ~73k

americans are all acustomed to replacing alernators....
and that is the first thing we do.... but if you have a mercedes
or volvo with a bosch alternator all you need to replace is the brush
assembly/voltage regulator... this is a little plastic item that screws into the back of the alternator... in fact you should carry a spare in the glove compartment... your alternator will last through probably 10 of these items..

and if your really cheap you can take your old one of these and solder in new brushes...

well i dont know about ten of them but it is usually the problem.

tom w

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

Well, I finally got it off and took it to Auto Zone for a free test. Bad alternator. A rebuilt is $90.00 for 85 amp, $120.00 for 95 amp, is that extra 10 worth that much more money? Thanks for the assistance.

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84 300td wagon

blueranger,

I resent being called cheap. Frugal economical or thrifty is OK but not cheap.

P E H

This is stupid question, but are the brushes included in buying the regulator? I haven't seen brushes sold separately...how do I order them. I told you it was a stupid question...

Don

go for the 95 amp. it wouldn't hurt to go higher than lower. it might also help you to get your battery life last longer and brighter headlights even at idle with all the other electrical accessories like radio, wiper when raining hard, ac, etc...etc...

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'85 300D Turbo - CA Version

on the back of any or most bosch alternators you will find a
plastic assembly... it has 2 bolts holding it in place... remove the
2 bolts and go to the dealer or a foreign car speciality place and
buy the brush assembly. the brushes, and voltage regulator
are included in this one assembly.... then replace it and be on your
way.... you should really carry a spare one of these in the dash..

You can buy 2 brushes and unsoldier the back and soldier in the two new
brushes....

I have been driving foreign since about 1984 and I have not changed an alternator since back in the day...in fact this is a job you can do on your back at night with a flash light in the rain....

here it is the greatest invention since viagra


http://catalog.eautopartscatalog.com/mercedesshop/sophio/quote.jsp?clientid=catalog.mercedesshop&cookieid=1IZ1F9XRI1TM16OMYR&baseurl=http://catalog.peachparts.com/&partner=mercedesshop&year=1983&product=F4010-30110&application=000272329

I didn't think anyone saw me do that last winter!!

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The Golden Rule

1984 300SD (bought new, sold it in 1988, bought it back 13 yrs. later)

The brushes are part of the assembly. Order a voltage regulator.
http://catalog.eautopartscatalog.com/mercedesshop/sophio/quote.jsp?clientid=catalog.mercedesshop&cookieid=1TH129NWZ1TM1DRIZ4&baseurl=http://catalog.peachparts.com/&partner=mercedesshop&year=1982&product=F4010-30110&application=000272327