I posted this before but I have not recieved any response. I am replacing my broken B2 valve on the transmission. How do I get the old steel piston sleeve out of the transmission housing so I can put in the new improved plastic sleeve?

I have the car up on jack stands and am at a stand still. I am really getting tired of driving my wifes VW Cabriolet! Have you replaced your B2 valve????

Scot

Actually, it's aluminum, believe it or not. I made a little puller out of a bolt and washer, but I bet you could pop it out a number of ways, including with a drift to the back. Don't give up and leave it in there, you DEFINITELY want to replace it. BTW, the plastic one is a bit loose in there, that's OK.

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'82 300SD - 361K mi - "Blue"

"Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement."

listen, look, .........and duck.

Thanks for the info. How do you get at the back of it? As in what do I have to take apart. I assume I will need to replace the seal that is on the current sleeve?

Thanks,
Scot

yes, you need to replace the seal too, you can just pry it out. Although I made a puller, it might be easier to drop the pan and filter and knock the sleeve out of the case from below. To really do it right, you change that little dogbone link between the brake band and piston to a longer one if the band open to close motion is greater than 6mm.

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'82 300SD - 361K mi - "Blue"

"Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement."

listen, look, .........and duck.

Again, thanks for your help with this.

I droped the pan and filter but I do not see how you can get to the back of the sleeve. Do I need to remove more from the transmission?

Scot

Sorry, it's been too long and my brain is mush. Pretty sure you'll have to drop the valve body then to reach it. Not sure you have to, I just can't remember. See if you can find some pictures. VB has 15 screws, 3 on right are a little longer. Torque carefully to 8 Nm on reinstallation. Be really clean with this. Putting the whole VB directly into a zip loc storage bag is one way.

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'82 300SD - 361K mi - "Blue"

"Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement."

listen, look, .........and duck.

please refresh my memory... the b2 is the one you replace if your
having troubling getting the car moving... right.... it is the start up
gear.... and isnt it at the back of the transmission...

(i get the b1 and b2 confussed thanks for help)

Yes, the B2 is the one that gets the car going. It also is at the back of the transmission. I really didn't want to remove the inards of the transmission but it sure looks like I have to inorder to get the sleeve out as I have tried repeatedly to get it out from the outside.

I have a similar problem with the bushing. It is in there very tight and appears to be worn slightly out of round(probably why it broke the piston). Since it is aluminum, and thin, could it be cut out(VERY carefully) using a sharp knife like a box knife? Since the new bushing will go into the bushing housing, and if care is taken to minimize scoring, what kind of problems,if any, should I encounter? Also, when I removed the bushing seal, it looked like it had been installed backwards as the rubber lip was facing out, had what appeared to be a slight tear(fold?), and the hard back was against the bushing lip. Is this the way it is supposed to go in? If so, how do you keep the rubber lip on the seal from folding inward when you put the piston back in? I'm no genius when it comes to transmissions, but it doesn't seem like the lip should face the piston and still seat/seal properly. Please let me know what is correct direction for the new seal to go in over the bushing. BTW, the car is an '81 300SD. Thanks guys!...Dave

Get a big seal puller from Napa, thing looks like a cross between an ice pick and a hammer. Then give the aluminum bushing everything you've got to pull the rubber seal out--you'll want to replace it with the nylon piece anyways. Try not to damage the rubber seal, you'll have to either reuse it or replace it...I ended up gnawing the thing to pieces trying to get it un-stuck, ordered a new one through MB for 6 bucks. Also you are correct, that is the way it is supposed to go in, seems weird but its how they are built, with the "shoulder" against the bushing since it holds it against the housing. I wouldn't try to cut the bushing since it is actually kind of thick, just yank on it until it comes out with the seal. Mine was near impossible to get out. Did you take off the exhaust pipe for more room? Shift the trans over a bit with a prybar? Any leverage you can get will help you, trust me!

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TC
Current stable:
- 2004 Mazda RALLYWANKEL
- 2007 Saturn sky redline
- 2004 Explorer...under surgery.

Past: 135i, GTI, 300E, 300SD, 300SD, Stealth

tbomachines
Did all the exhaust,trans support, drive-shaft carrier support and wedged the trans over as far as it would go to remove the B2. Just the bushing is not cooperating. No NAPA around here in Mexico, but we do have an Auto-zone and I will see what they have. Judging from your experience, it looks like I'm in for some PITA time. Thanks for the moral support and advice....Dave

Maybe this will help.

http://dieselgiant.com/Mercedesb2pistonsealreplacementl.htm

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Michael LaFleur

'05 E320 CDI - 86,000 miles
'86 300SDL - 360,000 miles
'85 300SD - 150,000 miles (sold)
'89 190D - 120,000 miles (sold)
'85 300SD - 317,000 miles (sold)
'98 ML320 - 270,000 miles (sold)
'75 300D - 170,000 miles (sold)
'83 Harley Davidson FLTC (Broken again) :-(
'61 Plymouth Valiant - 60k mikes
2004 Papillon (Oliver)
2005 Tzitzu (Griffon)
2009 Welsh Corgi (Buba)

I used a puller like this: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=4876 I didnt want to use the claw type puller because i might damage the B2 cylinder plus its too tight in there for that tool. Tied the claws with a rubber band so that it will equally expand. Pulled both seal and bushing together. Hope its not the B2 band that broken.

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'85 300D Cal 280,000 miles
'14 GLK 350 60000 miles

I noticed that the dieselgiant photos and almost all of the other tutorials online don't even mention the bushing seal, only a couple mention the bushing itself, which needs to be replaced. They do offer a good overview of what is going on, but I was pretty puzzled when I actually opened it up and found what I needed to replace. The claw puller was effective for me, but again it required a LOT of force and chewed up the old bushing pretty badly. From hearing others who have done the B2 I think mine was one of the hardest, perhaps because it hadn't been driven in years. My123ca, that puller looks good, I wish I had been able to use it! Unfortunately all my pullers simply didn't work, I was considering making one out of some threaded rod and steel stock. Let us know how it turns out!

__________________
TC
Current stable:
- 2004 Mazda RALLYWANKEL
- 2007 Saturn sky redline
- 2004 Explorer...under surgery.

Past: 135i, GTI, 300E, 300SD, 300SD, Stealth

By far the easiest way to get that bushing and seal out is to remove the valve body and use a punch and hammer to push the bushing out from the inside. I have done it other ways but that is by far the easiest.

Change that seal whether its good or not. Its only a few bucks and do you really want to do it again when the seal leaks?

Don't be afraid to remove the valve body, just don't take it apart. Pull it complete.

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81 300SD daily driver/project
86 420SEL (sold)
85 380SE(in the graveyard)