Quick question: If you pull a pre-chamber for a problem are they rebuildable at all or just don't bother and replace? If replace, where's a good source for replacements and are there inferior parts out there?

Thanks!

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Joe Black
Get yellow fever at ACME!

Just the MB's: '82 300DT (stick), '81 240D, '80 300SD, '80 300D, '81 240D Manual

I don't believe that they can be "rebuilt". Once the ball and shaft gets loose in the housing, it's time to replace them.

I had Metric do the job when the head was in for repair. The cost was $60. per. Not cheap, but, I'm planning for this engine to last awhile.

Problem is getting them out and back in, there are MB tools that work well. Have been a few posts where some made there own pullers out of some bicylce parts. Reported they worked very well.
Do not forget to pull the glow plugs before attempting this job.

Thanks! I found the thread on making your own tool from the Shimano piece, but there's several folk selling a $39 tool that fits both early and late chambers. One is here in Florida so with a 3rd MB on the way it's a small price to pay for a made tool.

I haven't wrenched much since I owned a restoration shop for vintage German and Italian sports cars, so I'm having a lot of fun with the MB diesels and remembering how much fun a vehicle your interested in is to work on. It kind of interesting how many similarities there are between these and my antique Caterpillar diesels.

__________________
Joe Black
Get yellow fever at ACME!

Just the MB's: '82 300DT (stick), '81 240D, '80 300SD, '80 300D, '81 240D Manual

I just did 2 of my PC's with the homemade tool routine. Def cant rebuild them. Just replace them since the cost is not that bad. One thing to watch out for, there is a sealing ring on them. Make sure you remove it from the old one and use it on the new one. They can be purchased in various thickness in case you have had head work done that changed the deck height. So, make sure you get em off the old ones and onto your new ones before you reinstall. Also be sure to clean all the carbon off the sealing surfaces before you pound the new one in or it will leak.

Just curious - what would it leak, fuel or oil?! I just cleaned the engine and it seemed like there was an oil seeping from under the pre-chambers, or it may just have been the oil from the valve cover gasket pooling and making me think that. Can't be sure - just wondering...

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1987 Mercedes 300SDL; SOLD
1985 Mercedes 300D; SOLD
2006 Honda Pilot - wife's ride; 122K;
1995 Toyota Land Cruiser - 3X locked; 182K

It leaks combustion chamber pressure when it leaks. My opinion is that if you were to pour oil on original prechamber collars and run the engine you would find most bubble a bit. I think the small occasional bubbles is normal. If you have compression gasses blowing the oil off the collar or you can feel it puffing, you have an issue. The 2 chambers I replaced dont leak at all. The other 2 originals bubble a bit if I get oil on them.