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  #16  
Old 06-20-2006, 08:38 PM
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The time I already spent on this old POS I'd have my other motor almost ready to drive by now..

Sorry guyz but my patience has officialy ran out.

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  #17  
Old 06-20-2006, 10:55 PM
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85 300D 4spd+tow+h4
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jfman
The time I already spent on this old POS I'd have my other motor almost ready to drive by now..

Sorry guyz but my patience has officialy ran out.
Need help? I'll trade labor for labor when I install mine.
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  #18  
Old 06-20-2006, 11:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by winmutt
Need help? I'll trade labor for labor when I install mine.
Your car has a bad engine
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  #19  
Old 06-20-2006, 11:40 PM
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85 300D 4spd+tow+h4
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jfman
Your car has a bad engine
No but I would like very much to have some extra git up and go over 2k
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  #20  
Old 06-20-2006, 11:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by winmutt
No but I would like very much to have some extra git up and go over 2k
Just buy my spare turbo setup and vroom



me and my father are prolly gonna pull the motor from the organ donor tomorrow.
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Last edited by jfman; 06-21-2006 at 12:03 AM.
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  #21  
Old 06-21-2006, 12:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jfman
Just buy my spare turbo setup and vroom



me and my father are prolly gonna pull the motor from the organ donor tomorrow.
I need the whole thing. I found one in Maryland (hopefully).
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  #22  
Old 06-21-2006, 03:11 PM
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you can bump it over using the starter at this terminal. Just jump a wire or a hand held starter switch from one of the large screws to one of the small screws.
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Valve adjustment: turning the motor-none-014-small-.jpg  
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  #23  
Old 06-21-2006, 04:21 PM
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Thanks for the tip. Got it done with a 27mm however.
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  #24  
Old 06-21-2006, 05:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jfman
300D 1985


What is the size of the crankshaft bolt so I can buy the right socket so I can turn the motor ?

Also what size wrench do I need to remove the injectors ?
I found using a 22 mm combination wrench to turn the power steering pump and thence the engine to be the easiest way to do this when adjusting the valves.
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  #25  
Old 06-21-2006, 05:45 PM
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"I found using a 22 mm combination wrench to turn the power steering pump and thence the engine "

A very bad idea... and there are lots of theads which have the discussion about this...

1. The MB Factory Shop manual SPECIFICALLY SAYS NOT TO DO THAT !!
2. The reason it the shaft on the power steering pump is a taper.. so that excess tightening forces that junction together...

Use the crank bolt if you are smart... the rest of you.... I hope you don't ever have to take that pulley off to service the power steering pump....
I helped TCane when the PO had done that... not fun... and you risk damaging the pump in the process....
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  #26  
Old 06-21-2006, 06:53 PM
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[QUOTE=leathermang]"
A very bad idea... and there are lots of theads which have the discussion about this...


2. The reason it the shaft on the power steering pump is a taper.. so that excess tightening forces that junction together...

Greg...An impact wrench is a great "equalizer"
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  #27  
Old 06-21-2006, 07:12 PM
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LOL, Stevo, it is not the nut... but the tapered hole pulley which is the problem once it has been TORQUED down too much...
Two of us with a big vise and heating it with oxy-acet and took three heats and lots of heavy hitting...
A true Interference fit once you Crank ( pun ) it down...
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  #28  
Old 06-21-2006, 11:42 PM
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Greg..I have pulled a couple p/s pump pulleys where the nut was regularly used to turn the engine, They came off the shaft, quite easy. so I remain unconvinced of the hazzerds of using the p/s pump nut Using the crank nut is a real pain IMO
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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

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  #29  
Old 06-22-2006, 10:17 AM
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Well, this is the procedure...

Quote:
Originally Posted by leathermang
"I found using a 22 mm combination wrench to turn the power steering pump and thence the engine "

A very bad idea... and there are lots of theads which have the discussion about this...

1. The MB Factory Shop manual SPECIFICALLY SAYS NOT TO DO THAT !!
2. The reason it the shaft on the power steering pump is a taper.. so that excess tightening forces that junction together...

Use the crank bolt if you are smart... the rest of you.... I hope you don't ever have to take that pulley off to service the power steering pump....
I helped TCane when the PO had done that... not fun... and you risk damaging the pump in the process....
...recommended by Dieselgiant. See the following site:

http://dieselgiant.com/valveadjustment.htm

It seemed to work fine for me. Granted, Dieselgaint's website is not the MB Factory Shop manual, but he seems to have a lot of "pull" around here. Apparently, though, there is disagreement regarding his pull with pulleys....
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Der Panzermann und Fraulein Fahrvergnuegen

1991 420SEL 201K "The Big Blue One"
1985 300DT 205K chassis/285K engine nee California emissions "Goldbug"
1983 300TDT 255K "The Womble"
1983 300 DT 214K "Sea Sprite"-Rear-ended a truck
1983 300SD 285K "The Donor" Gave his life so that others can live
1980 500SL Euro 105K "Der Panzer"
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  #30  
Old 06-22-2006, 02:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Panzermann
...recommended by Dieselgiant. See the following site:

http://dieselgiant.com/valveadjustment.htm

It seemed to work fine for me. Granted, Dieselgaint's website is not the MB Factory Shop manual, but he seems to have a lot of "pull" around here. Apparently, though, there is disagreement regarding his pull with pulleys....
Maybe my belt is not tight enough, but I tried using the PS pully and it just slipped at the crank. After a bit, I got the right amount to turn the crank with the 27mm down pat. Only have to do it once a year.

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