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  #1  
Old 06-20-2006, 03:40 PM
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Valve adjustment: turning the motor

300D 1985


What is the size of the crankshaft bolt so I can buy the right socket so I can turn the motor ?

Also what size wrench do I need to remove the injectors ?

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  #2  
Old 06-20-2006, 03:42 PM
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Size...

Quote:
Originally Posted by jfman
300D 1985 What is the size of the crankshaft bolt so I can buy the right socket so I can turn the motor ? Also what size wrench do I need to remove the injectors ?
I believe it is 27mm DEEP socket that you need for both - but wait for confirmation from others on that (though I'm fairly certain that's it)...

MF
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  #3  
Old 06-20-2006, 04:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MercFan
I believe it is 27mm DEEP socket that you need for both - but wait for confirmation from others on that (though I'm fairly certain that's it)...

MF
That is correct. And the Hazet socket works the best, as it has relief to clear the injector return barbs. But a standard 27mm deep well works.
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  #4  
Old 06-20-2006, 04:13 PM
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I also think it is the 27 mm deep socket.. the Sears thin wall works nice...
but what is a Valave ?
LOL
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  #5  
Old 06-20-2006, 04:30 PM
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Sorry typing with oily hands.

Thank you guyz.
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1985 300D : the clean one 180k miles - Now passed onto my parents.
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1991 mustang notch (project)
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  #6  
Old 06-20-2006, 05:40 PM
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All valvea adjusted.

2 were in spec
2 were too loose
the 6 other ones I could not fit the feeler guages.

From the looks of the 14mm nuts they looked like they had never been adjusted.
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1985 300D : the clean one 180k miles - Now passed onto my parents.
2000 E39 M5
2002 e46 330xit
1991 mustang notch (project)
1970 chevelle (project)
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  #7  
Old 06-20-2006, 05:45 PM
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I prefer the handheld starter to bump it over... I use it for the SD and the BMWs.
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I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look.

'85 300SD 245k
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  #8  
Old 06-20-2006, 05:49 PM
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Hand held starter...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hit Man X
I prefer the handheld starter to bump it over... I use it for the SD and the BMWs.
Where did you get that hh starter - reasonably priced?!
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  #9  
Old 06-20-2006, 05:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MercFan
Where did you get that hh starter - reasonably priced?!


$15 maybe? Actron I believe is the brand. Either from AutoZoo or Pimp Boyz, it's a great little device.

All it does is activate the solenoid. But no hunching over to turn the motor over manually with the crank.
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I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look.

'85 300SD 245k
'87 300SDL 251k
'90 300SEL 326k

Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford.

Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.
[/IMG]
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  #10  
Old 06-20-2006, 06:24 PM
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With a car ' new to you' I would start the car up after the valve setting just to see how it sounds.... it is safer to only do one thing at a time and see that you are back to ' neutral' .... otherwise you can wind up not knowing which action you took which needs correcting...
Sure glad you caught those tight ones and hope that did not cause any damage..once an exhaust valve does not seat well on the head the excess heat can damage it very quickly...
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  #11  
Old 06-20-2006, 06:31 PM
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Well I am guessing at this point that the valves have never been adjusted. The car has 180k miles.

Think it's possible that the head is damaged?
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1985 300D : the clean one 180k miles - Now passed onto my parents.
2000 E39 M5
2002 e46 330xit
1991 mustang notch (project)
1970 chevelle (project)
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  #12  
Old 06-20-2006, 06:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jfman
Well I am guessing at this point that the valves have never been adjusted. The car has 180k miles.

Think it's possible that the head is damaged?
You mentioned that you "could not fit the feeler gauges" on the other six.

Can you elaborate? I presume that you mean way too tight so that no gauge can fit. If so, then the valves are not fully closing. Such a condition will heavily coke the edges of the valves, and, if they are exhaust valves, you probably have burned them if this condition has been ongoing for some time.
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  #13  
Old 06-20-2006, 07:37 PM
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Yep the think is freakin toast ! It runs just as bad now with everything I did to it.

Motor swap time.
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1985 300D : the clean one 180k miles - Now passed onto my parents.
2000 E39 M5
2002 e46 330xit
1991 mustang notch (project)
1970 chevelle (project)
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  #14  
Old 06-20-2006, 08:08 PM
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Well, lets don't go off the deep end yet... there are other tests you need to perform to see what condition your condition is in... ( from an old song )...
Someone said that the Harbor Freight compression guages for Diesels are on sale cheap right now... that would be a good first item... although you will really be needing a way to do a leak down test to tell you if the valves are at fault due to not sealing. That can be done through the glowplug holes.. which saves some work compared to the injector holes...
So you are saying that all the valves are correctly adjusted at this time?
Have you changed the fuel filters yet ?
If maintenance has been slack... I would invest the $20 it takes to run Diesel Purge through your pump and injectors... it really helped out my 240...
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  #15  
Old 06-20-2006, 08:26 PM
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Dont shoot the old horse yet, she may not be ready to die. Like Leathermang said "do a compression test". You can use a "gasser" one that only goes to 300#, as you dont need to worry about low compression above that 180 K in nothing for these engines, unless she was badly abused

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