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  #1  
Old 06-15-2006, 06:49 PM
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new product survey

guys and gals
i would like to know if there is any intrest in an oil system for the older diesels,115,116,123,126,124 that would elimate the wear created on the engine due to oil being away from the friction points of the engine during start ups. you can go read about engine wear when an engine is started and decide for your self if you want to continue. i did and decided to build a system that would pressurize the oil galleys prior to start up, it works with the glow plug system, pretty easy to install and has a pay back because you use your old oil in the fuel tank and dont have to touch the drain plug during oil changes, just disconnect one quick disconnect, plug it into another,your oil goes to the fuel tank,change the filter and reconnect the quick disconnect.
i really believe the engine is mostly worn out from inital starts and there is 2 things that would extend the life, get oil to the wear components prior to cranking and getting heat to the block so parts can expand to their working position, so pressureize the oil system,and pre heat the water heater is easiest and will reduce wear.
let me know if there is any intrest and i will work on getting a cost together.
larry perkins lou ky
89 old cars

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  #2  
Old 06-15-2006, 07:29 PM
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Join Date: May 2005
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larry

well larry, I am in louisville kY as well.... I need a transmission do you have
any ideas of where one is close to louisville...

about your idea, most of the folks would be shocked to put motor oil in there fuel tank....
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  #3  
Old 06-15-2006, 07:48 PM
home of 4,5,6,8 cylinders
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Vancouver BC
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or install an external oil pump that you can run before starting up.
Hook it up thru the external oil cooler lines.

Most Merc diesel engines do lasts a long long time, unless you do these external oil pump right from the start. Otherwise all the damage had been already done.

For Merc diesels is a bit harder to crank the engine a few secs prior to firing up.
Gas engines/ VW diesels can do that if you don't send any power to the ignition coil or power to the fuel solenoid on a VW.
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  #4  
Old 06-15-2006, 08:08 PM
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Do you mean something like is discussed in these threads ?

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=82128&highlight=preoiler

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=86683&highlight=preoiler

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=30691&highlight=preoiler
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  #5  
Old 06-15-2006, 09:03 PM
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blueranger

the oil to the fuel tank is a choice,if you dont want to burn it then just pump it to a container,would require a short hose and a container.
i know folks who burn 10% used motor oil on a steady bases, and remember it gets filtered as it passes thru the fuel filters.
also if one is to believe you had to start this process from the beginning of a new engine then why do we see so many post about the cars that wont start because of loss of compression as they age? if you have an engine that starts and runs good then why not save it from futhur wear as much as you can??
larry perkins
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  #6  
Old 06-15-2006, 09:51 PM
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I

i burn oil in my tank no problem... I am just talking about the general public and many folks here on this fourm.. the purist...

where in louisville are you....

I am running off of wvo.... would you like to see the car...
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  #7  
Old 06-16-2006, 09:34 AM
C Sean Watts's Avatar
NOCH EIN PILS!!
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: NC
Posts: 1,318
A good cost effective solution.

I've known some folks who installed an accusump.

They work.
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  #8  
Old 06-16-2006, 11:51 AM
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accusump

i looked at the accumulator type devises to solve the problem but as soon as you shut down the engine the volumn of oil in the device is injected into the oil system and dosent hold any for the cold starts.
sure is a good consept for loss of oil pressure, i read at 3600 rpm that a piston can be damaged in less than a second,so you would have some time to shut her down.
larry perkins
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  #9  
Old 06-20-2006, 07:55 AM
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blue

sorry got busy,u can call me at 459 4333 to get location.
larry perkins
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  #10  
Old 06-20-2006, 05:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by larry perkins
i read at 3600 rpm that a piston can be damaged in less than a second
I had an experience like that with my 25hp Honda outboard boat motor

Design flaw in the oil pan allowed the heat from the exhaust manifold to greatly accelerate the corrosion on the oil pan caused by saltwater. Let's just say it didn't last long when that oil pan finally blew through cruising at 5000rpm! The high engine speeds actually twisted the timing belt gear right off the cam shaft when it seized!

After lots of arguing with Honda (it was out of warranty), they finally replaced the entire powerplant with a brand new one free of charge. I even had to break it in again
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  #11  
Old 06-24-2006, 10:41 AM
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proto type finished

the first oil service system is finished and installed on a 1985 td with 225k miles.
no supprises,oil pressured up to 1.5 bar(30 lb) while glow relay heats the glow plugs,crank the engine and main oil pump takes over.no more lack of oil at start up to wear the engine.
i over filled the crank case with 1 qt oil and transfered the quick disconnect and timed about 30 seconds for the qt of oil to the fuel tank.
what if's
1 your oil pump broke, you got a stand by that would keep the parts lube.
2 you needed emergency fuel,pump a small amt of oil to the fuel tank. am searching for a formula for the mixture of gasoline and motor oil if anyone had experience.
larry perkins

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