I realize this is a DIY project . . . however, w/o the proper tool is this really a job better left to a shop? I have read a number of the threads and the press issue (battle) leaves me thinking unless I want to buy the CORRECT press, I might be better off leaving this to a good shop. What are the current opinions, please.
Steve

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Steve
'87 300TD - 132K - Soon 4-Sale
'84 300D Turbo - 122K - Driving
'77 VW Type II - 77K - Restored
'08 250EX Ninja
English Bulldog (Brier) - My best friend. Passed away 12/02/04 while in my arms.

I did this job on my '87 in 2004. I did use a press but not the factory recommended press. What matters is that you have a spacer with the right ID, OD, and height so that you can press the ball joints out/in. The proper spring compresser is a must.

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2001 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins Turbo Diesel - 4x4, auto, 3.54 gears, long bed
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'92 300D 2.5 Turbodiesel - sold
'83 300D Turbodiesel - 4 speed manual/2.88 diff - sold
'87 300D Turbodiesel - sold
'82 300D Turbodiesel - sold

I rent the real press for $35.00

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Rusty Cullens
BuyMBparts, Inc.
1-800-741-5252

I just finished doing the ball joints on my 1987 300TDT. The ball joint press from Harbor Freight ($19.99 on sale) seems to work, but I had to purchase the accessory kit ($49.99) and then grind a notch in one of the adapters so I would be able to press the ball joint out. The A arm has an interference area that the notch in the adapter clears. The accessory kit has the proper adapters to push the ball joint in as well. Once the knuckle/strut were out of the way the the operation only took 30 minutes per ball joint if that. I think I saw a write up on replacing the ball joints on this web site.

-Steve

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1987 300TDT smoke silver w/ burgundy leather interior
2000 VW Passat wagon indigo blue w/ beige leather interior
1985 Mustang SVO
1970 Chevrolet K10 fleetside, shortbed

Steve, you'll have no problem with this job. I rented this press from Rusty and it worked well on my SD. I never did understand the fears expressed about this job. On a 1-10 DIY difficulty scale, this is a 5, or less. Those who are afraid to get some grease on their skirt should go to a professional mechanic.

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'82 300SD - 361K mi - "Blue"

"Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement."

listen, look, .........and duck.

The only thing to beware of when changing the ball joints is the spring. If the spring is not compressed using the proper type of spring compressor, or the weight of the car then it can be lethal. The low cost method involves placing a jack stand under the A-arm and then the weight of the car will keep the A-arm from flying downward and releasing the spring.

-Steve

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1987 300TDT smoke silver w/ burgundy leather interior
2000 VW Passat wagon indigo blue w/ beige leather interior
1985 Mustang SVO
1970 Chevrolet K10 fleetside, shortbed

Thanks. That is the way I'll go. I received an e-mail offer on the rental. It certainly did not look any more difficult (tool was the kicker) than others . . .

Someone please freely correct me if I am mistaken, but my standard spring compressor that I use to completely collapse springs over struts should work to relieve the tension .
Steve

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Steve
'87 300TD - 132K - Soon 4-Sale
'84 300D Turbo - 122K - Driving
'77 VW Type II - 77K - Restored
'08 250EX Ninja
English Bulldog (Brier) - My best friend. Passed away 12/02/04 while in my arms.

I did this myself 2 weekends ago. Take your time and it's not a bad job at all. The rusted-on bolts were the worst part of the job, not the ball joint. I left the A-arm on the car, blocked it up with wood, and put a chain through the spring for safety just in case.

Check out the instructions at http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/W124BallJoint if you haven't done so already. They're well written and easy to follow.

To get the old joint out, I sliced it straight across using an angle grinder with a thin cutoff blade. I cut it very close to the A-arm (takes under 2 minutes to cut it off clean), and then used a 2-arm gear puller to press it out (there are little tabs on the A-arm that the gear puller can grab). Cutting it off gave a solid flat surface to press against.

I also heard all of the press-not-fitting-right stories, so to put the new joint in, I made my own press out of a big C-clamp and some pieces of 4x4 drilled out to fit the profile of the ball joint. I reinforced each side of the 4x4 with aluminum plate to provide a more solid surface to press against, and marked the top and bottom of the pieces with center marks so that I could align the clamp to apply pressure evenly. It worked great; see the attached photos - they may explain it better.

Attached Thumbnails

   

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1989 250TD Wagon 5-speed, 160,000mi ::: Dark gray metallic / black cloth
1984 190D-2.2 5-speed, 287,000mi ::: Silver-blue metallic / black MB-tex ::: SOLD

You may have a local member who can set you up with the tool. Check the tool rental thread.

I like the idea of using the cutoff tool to streamline the process. Be careful not to breath the dust when grinding or cutting metal with an abrasive blade.

I have made adapters from pipe or used sockets for many various jobs over the years but watch your materials. Soft metal gives at the worst possible time.