I bought the car for the engine which I installed in my truck....
History
veh sat for a couple of years prior to me purchasing it. 1984 300SD
What I've done
new fuel filters, fresh fuel
bango bolt is clear and I can blow back to the intake with no resistance.
Primer pump leaks fuel if you try using it. I tighten it up no leaks
Symptoms
starts instantly (almost dont need glow plugs) idles beautifly, sounds smooth no missing or smoke
Has slight rock at idle (no mount shocks yet installed)
has NO power in neutral, punch the throttle and you can do a slow count to 15 and the revs just start to come up.(4500rpm)
doing a stall test on the tranny (brakes locked, in gear, foot to the floor) I doubt it hits 800-1000RPM. truck might do 30MPH if I get out and push.I think I could push it to 30 faster than the engine can.(truck is using the MB tranny and 4:56 gearing in the diff)

When the engine was in the car it had leaky fuel lines and filters that were plugged solid with crap and fuel that was 3-4 yrs old. I had it running on a jug of fuel (bypassed the tank, but still had old filters on it at the time ) the returning fuel turned the fuel in the jug black, I just blamed the poor performance on bad filters... I see now how wrong I was

I cant see turning the ALDA and curing this problem. I think it starts to good to have a streched timing chain or tight valves (again I could be wrong). I see difference of opinion with using Moly lub/diesel purge and I'm hesitant to try it, incase it causes more issues than it could cure(help) I've spent a couple hrs searching the archives with out alot of luck, finding anything that matches my symptoms
I was hoping for a quick fix but I guess I'll have to start eliminating the chain/valve adjustment next

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91 Toyota 4Runner powered by a 84 300SD driveline. Truck has 4:56 gearing on 31 AT tires, 2.5inch exhaust. Pillar mounted exhaust pyro and Boost gauges

Diesel purge, then change the filters again.

Sounds like it's not getting enough fuel. Could be linkage adjustment. Does the mechanical stop onm the IP get all the way to the stopping point?

Marty

www.benzbonz.biz

Gunked up injectors and lines? Since your old fuel was coming back black into your bottle with just new fuel. Algea or fungus growth? Perhaps a little fungicide introduced into the system? Just do not know if purge handles growth products, it might. I do not think old fuel turns black just by itself either. Your filters were full of the same stuff too you mentioned. Somewhere it was mentioned that type a transmission fluid was also a good soak for an injection pump as it is not too agressive. Again though not for growth products probably.

Interesting project. Are you going to off-road in that?

Sorry I don't have any advice, but I'm interested in knowing how it all turns out.

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Ralph

1985 300D Turbo, CA model
248,650 miles and counting...

Here is my link to the Toyota diesel page :
http://www.toyotadiesel.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2516

My 4Runner is a daily driver, and the toyota diesel (2.4 2LT) was not durable enough so I was motivated to convert to MB, Right now its hooked up for 2WD and when I have more time I'll complete the mods/fab work to install the Toyota Transfer case

the truck weighs 1/2 what the benz does and with 4:56 gears and 31inch tires it should haul nicely, or at least squak the tires

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91 Toyota 4Runner powered by a 84 300SD driveline. Truck has 4:56 gearing on 31 AT tires, 2.5inch exhaust. Pillar mounted exhaust pyro and Boost gauges

If you have changed filters and tried running it from a jug of fresh diesel fuel underhood, and it still produces no power, I'm inclined to suggest that you check cam timing and IP timing. While it's unlikely that these two are very far out of spec, I can't fathom anthing else that is preventing the engine from making decent power, especially if it starts immediately.

I don't believe that diesel purge will solve symptoms of this magnitude.

I adjusted the valves the intakes were loose and the exhaust were tight(.20mm ish) I adjusted Intake @.10mm and exhaust .35mm, seemed a bit better, then I adjusted the Alda 1 &1/4 turns CC that made huge improvement...but seems to crank more to start and its running rich, I'm masking something by compisating with the alda. throttle response in neutral starts as soon as you move it where before the rod would move 1.5 inches before anything happened. under a stall test the engine sounds dead and cant muster much if any RPM, although it is much better than before. What would be the stall RPM for the 300D engines??
I checked turbo boost at the IP (with the alda unplugged) with a hand held gauge and got 6psi WOT in neutral, underload it took forever to get to 4psi with the alda hooked up and my in cab gauge T'ed into the alda line. I fiqured maybe the alda was leaking but it holds a vacuum so it must be OK.
I did a chain stretch but did not have a dial indicator (yet but I will soon) and using the tower marks near as I can tell I'm at 0, almost in line with the pin that sticks up out of the harmonic balancer. I don't think that is any way near accurate

I too dont think the diesel purge will cure this.
keep any ideas you have comming
THANKS

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91 Toyota 4Runner powered by a 84 300SD driveline. Truck has 4:56 gearing on 31 AT tires, 2.5inch exhaust. Pillar mounted exhaust pyro and Boost gauges

Did you check the linkage as Marty advised in post #3?

The arm on the IP needs to be all the way to the stop when your right foot is on the floor. It's a two man operation.